Ok...I know everyone recommends the BPR6ES plugs from NGK....but whats the problem with the Platinum ones? (BPR6EIX)
Is it because of the price difference, or are they a problem for our turboed cars? I have a set on its way with some Accel wires, and I plan to gap at .030 .... anything I should be looking out for?
Ok scratch those accel wires out, i got a set of the blue silicon packaged, NGK wires comin......so should I put a hault on the platinum plugs or should I go with them?
The EIX plugs are actually iridium-tipped ones that are replacing the platinums in NGK's line. I put some in a couple months ago, and I love 'em. Just put in the new NGK wires a few weeks ago too. I haven't had any problems, although I have not actually taken the plugs out since installing them to see what they look like.
I keep reading about people saying "dont use the plats cause of a weaker spark"...but maybe they were refering to the BOSCH ones... (I got them in now...not to bad, but I got such a good deal on these plugs/wires I wasnt gonna turn it down.... $25 for everything )
One more question though, do you have yours gapped @ .030 ?
BTW....what mods do you have done to your car though? PSI?
I plan on getting my Greddy-S bov tommorow, along with my fuel pump next week...and Iam gonna raise the PSI to 16.....hope the plats wont have any problems....
I got those plat plugs in to, but iam sending them back today and getting the BPR6ES's, just to be safe. A 100+ DSMer's running 12 second cars cant be wrong, and Ill take their word over some tard behind the Napa desk.
i was also curious about ngk's other plugs. i personally was running 6 es's but now am running 6 ey's i think. they're a v type electrode plug. the car seems to run fine, and was curious what the reasoning was against these v-style as opposed to the standard flat es's.
Yeah, those are the right ones. And again, those plugs are not platinum, they're iridium. The platinum ones are BPR6EVX, according to the NGK web site. Don't they say iridium on the box and plug somewhere? Maybe you did get some platinum ones somehow...
Anyway, here's what Mach V has to say about iridium plugs:
"Iridium: 8 times stronger than platinum, 6 times harder, and with a melting point 1200 degrees higher. New laser welding techniques make it possible to make a spark plug with an iridium electrode. The result is a plug that requires less voltage to spark, burns more of the fuel in the cylinder, and can spark at LEANER air/fuel mixtures, resulting in higher horsepower and better gas mileage.
Although the plugs are expensive, you don't have to change them as often as garden variety spark plugs. The iridium electrode is extremely resistant to erosion, so it can last MUCH longer than a normal plug. (Longevity will vary by usage, fuel mixture, and other factors.)"
And Extreme Motorsports says this about the NGK BPR6EIX specifically: "These are the ideal plugs for street use, as they have a long life and excellent characteristics. We use these in our own street cars and so far no other plug has performed as well."
OK, I'm through sounding like a commercial. I'm sure the copper ones will do just fine too. Like you said, with so many other DSMs running them, they can't be bad.
i was also curious about ngk's other plugs. i personally was running 6 es's but now am running 6 ey's i think. they're a v type electrode plug. the car seems to run fine, and was curious what the reasoning was against these v-style as opposed to the standard flat es's.
When I was researching plugs a few months ago, I remember reading a series of articles on the Talon Digest, one of which I found again today for you. There are a few more, though, and those other ones (but not this one, I don't think) were written by a guy that works for NGK and seemed to really know his stuff. Anyway, here's one link for you to check out-- it does mention the v-groove plugs toward the bottom...
Good feedback guys. I sent back the Plats, well ya they were iridiums, but I sent 'em back anyways and I got a box of BPR6ES' and the NGK Plugs sittin right in front of me. All I need is a gapping tool and Iam set, thx.
i got the bpr7es, they are tried and tested over the years, i wouldn't play with the new ones, it's all fun and games till the electrode gets hot and falls into the combustoin chamber I remember hearing about a few Bosch's that happened to.
I thought it'd be worth noting here that I have a set of BPR6EY plugs in my car. The "Y" instead of "S" indicates the style of electrode tip. In this case the "Y" electrode is a V-shape.
Advanced Auto Parts told me that they changed the stock number from BPR6ES to BPR6EY, but I don't believe them.
The plugs work fine so I'm not complaining. From now on, though, I'm going to specifically ask for BPR6ES plugs instead of letting them input my car into their system. That way I know what I'm getting.
The BPR6ES work awesome, just stick with them. No need to spend extra for special plugs. Make sure they are gapped right and you'll be fine. If you have any mods, wouldn't hurt to run 7's, one range colder.
I thought it'd be worth noting here that I have a set of BPR6EY plugs in my car. The "Y" instead of "S" indicates the style of electrode tip. In this case the "Y" electrode is a V-shape.
Advanced Auto Parts told me that they changed the stock number from BPR6ES to BPR6EY, but I don't believe them.
The plugs work fine so I'm not complaining. From now on, though, I'm going to specifically ask for BPR6ES plugs instead of letting them input my car into their system. That way I know what I'm getting.
I love when they tell me funny stuff like that, nothing liek taking out your stress on a dumb ass computer key puncher who thinks he knows more about your car than you. They would not give me my brp7's because "they didn't come on my car" but after some argueing i got them. They act like you putting the stuff on they're car, if you break yoru car your the one who gotta pay for it.
From everything I've read, there seems to be (at least to me) a gray area for when you need to switch to a colder plug. Mostly what I've read is "after you have some mods". Is there any more specific guidance as to when you need a colder range (WHICH mods, etc.)? Right now all I have are the free mods and a K&N, so I don't think I'm to the point of needing colder plugs yet, but I hope to get to that point soon...
Seems I remember something on how to tell if the plug you're running is TOO cold (fouling), but not the other way around. Am I just being stupid and forgetting something and asking a FAQ-type question?
Is there any more specific guidance as to when you need a colder range (WHICH mods, etc.)? Right now all I have are the free mods and a K&N, so I don't think I'm to the point of needing colder plugs yet, but I hope to get to that point soon...
Seems I remember something on how to tell if the plug you're running is TOO cold (fouling), but not the other way around.
Here is my mods list and i'm still using the 6's. HRC, S16g, FMIC, HRC Fuel pump, HRC DP, Thermal Exhaust. Greddy BOV, K&N. I was planning on an AFC and 550's and then I would be running the colder plugs. So to answer your question, your fine with the 6's. You can tell if your running too lean or rich by taking a plug out and looking at it. You can also monitor your O2 volts to get a more accurate air/fuel ratio, but would need and AFC or a standalone to adjust.
Originally posted by confusious2002 They would not give me my brp7's because "they didn't come on my car"
The only problem with running colder plugs that may arise is fouling. My approach to this is run as cold a plug as possible without it getting dirty and the engine misfiring that way reducing a chance of preignition. With basic mods 16G, 15psi etc I 've had bpr8es's for about 1500 miles already with no problems. I check them periodically and they stay light tan.
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