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You know those polished strut bars with a nut insert on each side so you can adjust the length.. Well I found out that more than just bolting it on. After you bolt it on, you roll/turn the bar in one direction you'll see the ends being pushed out. This is due to the threads are actually reversed on each side. Anyways just turn it so the bar pushes out nice and tight.
For the front I don't think you can turn the bar after bolt on due to not enough clearance..
Sorry if you know this already. I didn't know this before and bolted it on never adjusted it
I see what you mean. We had a pretty lengthy thread on this a little while back. I think all bars a designed a little differently. I actually wouldnt want one that required any preload in order to react properly. I wouldnt want to be throwing off my camber in any direction. Also it seems that if you have to preload the bar in order to make it stiff enough, then it just isnt a stiff enough bar.
Yup, there was a thread on it ... and still nobody explained why they make their STB to pull the towers together. A rather compitent source told me to make the bar to push slightly outwards to square off the suspension. IMO pulling colapses the suspension.
Please reply with some REAL info!!!!!
Yeah, I'm very interested in some good answers here, I'd like to know the best way to have my STB set up. I'm curious as to how much the bar affects the suspension geometries. I've been having problems with the camber in my car and am thinking it might be from the Greddy adjustable STB I've got.
Anyone know whether to have the bar push out or pull in? How much effect is the STB having on the suspension? Seems that having it pull the suspension together would result in more negative camber, whereas having it push out would get more positive camber.
Can anyone shed some definitive light on this subject??
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David
1994 Beater
1993 Talon TSi AWD - sold
1992 Eclipse GSX - R.I.P.
1992 Eclipse GS 1.8l - sold
I am getting the feel that a slight outward push is best. My question is when you install it do you need to jack the car up or can it be installed while on the ground. What is the proper torque for the bolts?
Here's my take, if your bar is adjustable, you can do it on the ground (cuz you can adjust it afterwards)
If it's non adjustable like RRE's, do it with the car in the air.
And the adjustment, I adjusted my upper rear so it pushes out quite a lot, I noticed the front feel heavier (like understeer), so I loosened it and slight made it pulling. I believe this would make the rear loose (i.e. oversteer) and therefore reduce the understeer.
it's very hard to tell the difference at times, just gut feeling.
Originally posted by 95GST For the front I don't think you can turn the bar after bolt on due to not enough clearance..
I'm not sure what you mean by "not enough clearance", but actually the one I'm concerned with is the front STB. Mine is in fact adjustable on the car (Greddy), can be made to either push out or pull in with the car on the ground.
From the sounds of things here and after experimenting with it a little, I've decided to have it pushing out. To me it seems that this way it will seriously stiffen the front chassis, as opposed to having it pulling in.
__________________
David
1994 Beater
1993 Talon TSi AWD - sold
1992 Eclipse GSX - R.I.P.
1992 Eclipse GS 1.8l - sold
Just to add... I found out that the shock tower bolts should be tightened to 32 ft/lbs or torque... Just in case someone else was wondering...
I would check some manuals to make sure, 32 ft.lbs sure rings a bell but on the non turbos the front are only 18 ft.lbs for example. Also the front and rear may have different torque specs.
I don't know what the greddy looks like, but the generic strut bars you have to spin the whole thing like a BBQ stick to get it to push out or pull in.
Best is just to experiment and see. For my front I just slided in the bolts without adjusting it. I know its working because I'm seeing the end brackets are starting to crack
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