Redline Water Wetter

[blunttwister]

what percent on coolant are we supposed to use when adding the water wetter. i will be flushing system and would like the added cooling of the product. the guy at loperz, an american performance shop said not to put in any antifreeze, to use distilled water, a water lubricant of some kind,forgot, and two bottles of water wetter. that was for bigger engines, so he said i could get away with only using 1 bottle.

i live in phoenix, very hot desert.
does this sound right? no antifreeze.
so give me your 2cents

[95GST]

Non freezing place the lowest you should go is 20% coolant and 80% water + water wetter
This is just enough to prevent rusting of the radiator..

[welderx]

coolant is required. the higher the %age of the mix, the less effective watter wetter is. still, coolant is required. coolant is not only an anti-freeze but anti-boil too, as well as a lubricant and anti-corrosive agent. the guy at loperz is not so sharp.

[gsxalex]

Water wetter acts as a lubricant! and it protects against radiater corrosion.

Green coolant actually contains silicates and phosphates which basically equate to sand! Sand is a horrible lubricant in my book.

The orange coolant is the only stuff that you should use. It does not contain any silicates or phosphates.

The guy at loperz is not as dumb as these guys make him out to be. You can easily get away without running any coolant if you use water wetter and distilled water. one bottle should be sufficient. But i would recomend using a 180 or lower thermostat. I run a 160, but would recomend a 170.
Water boils at 210 normally, however the water in your cooling system is under pressure, so it boils even hotter.

The only real problem you will encounter is when you shut your car off and the coolant stops circulating it will boil the water in the block. Because of this i would recomend you add about 10-20% coolant to help off-set this problem.

[welderx]

water boils at 212F./100C. not 210.
silicates are not sand. silica is sand. silicates are mineral salts.
silicates and phosphates are common components in detergents......clean metal is a far better transducer of heat.
water not only boils in the head at shut down but perhaps locally in the head under boost. there have been revisions to the cooling passages in our heads to improve flow and heat transfer, there must have been problems with hot spots.
this is common with other heads too. my sea doo has an additional line in the head to improve flow and break up eddys. stock sea doos are fine but this is required to prevent detonation in modified motors.
if your coolant boils heat transfer stops.
are we talking about a street car or trailer queen?
i agree on the 20%. watter wetter is as adjunct, an additive,i'd doubt the anti-corrosive and lubricant package in the product is designed to carry the load for the entire system.
calling redline would be my suggestion. greg

[gsxalex]

silicates are not sand. silica is sand. silicates are mineral salts.

After flushing my cooling system i had LOTS of sand/silicate/salt, or whatever you want to call it at the bottom of my drain pan. It covered the entire bottom of the pan in a pretty thick layer.

I agree that clean metal will conduct better, that is why i only use distiled water, water wetter and a bit of the orange stuff.

Incedentally, coolant is a horrible heat conducter compared to pure water. Not only is its thermal conductivity bad but it also has a much lower specific heat capacity, meaning it absorbs and holds much less heat energy as it circulates. This means that it can't possibly transfer as much heat into the radiater.

The bottom line is that the only thing "coolant" is good for is raising the boiling point and lowering the freezing point of the real coolant- water.

[welderx]

Originally posted by gsxalex
"Incedentally, coolant is a horrible heat conducter compared to pure water. Not only is its thermal conductivity bad but it also has a much lower specific heat capacity, meaning it absorbs and holds much less heat energy as it circulates. This means that it can't possibly transfer as much heat into the radiater."

"The bottom line is that the only thing "coolant" is good for is raising the boiling point and lowering the freezing point of the real coolant- water." [/B]

well yeah..... it does reduce the effectiveness of water as a transducer, that's why the recommendation was for a 20% mix. and yes the purpose of coolant is both anti-freeze and anti-boil, exactly why i recommened it's use.