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90 TSi Build.

72K views 159 replies 53 participants last post by  Ripper_XX 
#1 ·
Background on car: Bought used in 2004, Got into the DSM game for the first time due to having 3 friends who have always owned DSM's. I loved the power. Being a GM FWD guy it just was so tempting. Car was bone stock at the time when I bought it. Over the past 4 years have gone through many different parts. Car was originally a 5spd car. But to make it consistent for drag racing this past winter I pulled the 5spd manual out and bought a used auto trans for it. Yeah I know I'm doing the opposite of everyone on here. Most go from auto to 5spd..... Its all good I want consistent times.

1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD.

Engine:
2.4L G4CS block and crank, Eagle Rods, Wiseco pistons, Toga HV oil pump/front cover, Toga main bolts, ARP head studs, Cometic HG, Forced Performance FP3 cams, EVO 9 beehive springs and alum retainers.
FI FAB Hacked intake manifold with GM Northstar 75mm throttle body. Sheet metal plenum welded to stock Intake runners.
Jays racing Alternator Relocation kit. GM Saturn alternator. Jays Racing Coil on Plug kit, MSD DIS-4.
Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump, Sumped stock tank, Aeromotive FPR, -8 braided feed, -6 braided return line, Precision 1600cc injectors.
AEM Engine Management System.
AFCO radiator, Flexalite fans.
External Oil cooler.

Driveline:
92 DSM W4A33 auto transmission, Alto Red clutches, Translab Shift kit, Precision Industries 3500 stall converter.
92 DSM 4 bolt rear diff conversion.
Hurst Promatic Ratchet shifter and Kiggly wiring mod conversion for manumatic auto trans shifts.
Dual stacked DSM flexplates to stop flexplate breakage.
B&M external trans oil cooler.

Suspension/Brakes:
93 DSM dual piston caliper conversion, Brembo front rotors, HAWK pads fr/rr.
Dual linelock on front and rear brakes, Stainless braided brake lines fr/rr.
50mm wheel studs, 15mm thick hubcentric wheel spacers fr/rr.
93 Mazda RX7 "FD" 16x8 rims, repainted 350z wheel gray, Mazda logo on centercaps shaved and Mitsubishi diamond logos made by Cutting Edge Graphics installed on centercaps.
Toyo Proxie RA1 255/60R16 tyres for street. (10 inch wide)
KYB AGX adjustable shocks, Suspension Techniques springs, Ingalls adjustable rear control arms, Energy Suspension front c/arm bushings, Energy Susp front subframe bushings, Energy Susp rear control arm and sway bar bushings,
Front sway bar removed, 1.8L "DL" DSM Manual steering rack for p/s delete.

Turbo system:
Forced Performance HTA3582R.
Garrett 24x12x4.5 Bar/Plate core
TiAL 50mm BOV
TiAL 44mm Wastegate.
Buschur racing 3 inch exhaust.

Exterior: Car was repainted in 2004 right after purchase, 1gb spoiler conversion, carbon fiber rear hatch.



Whats going on with the car:

In Sept 2007 I put the stroker motor in, Was running on a Garrett T3/T4 57 trim turbo with a water to air IC setup. The stroker spooled the bitch so fast with this setup, had 1-1/2 feet total IC piping, spooled at 2500 with it like this, but the car needed more power. Blew the trans for the last time and after seeing the few really quick auto car's here and on other forums I then called it quits on the 5spd game as reluctant as I was to do so... Always owned and driven manual trans cars and I love rowing my own gears. Car was parked Oct 2007 for the Auto trans conversion and for winter.

Over winter this past year I started accumulating new parts for the car, New rims, new turbo, new cams, v/springs, new FMIC core, required parts for the auto trans conversion.

I started the auto trans conversion earlier this past January/Feb. Got it all in. Tore the engine harness out of the car. stripped out the wiring that did not require to be there anymore -sensors that don't get used with the AEM all the A/C wiring from the engine bay and car, and added in the Auto trans wiring from a 91 donor car into the harness. I still have to finish the looming of the harness once everything is in place in the engine bay and dash area's.
Cut the front off the car in preparation for the new turbo setup and got the new wheels and wheel studs/spacers mounted (they are hubcentric so the hub spacer fits directly on the hub mounting, as well as the rim mounts on a hub flange like stock would. none of this shitty spaced out wheel putting tension on the studs crap here)

Spring hit and I was flooded with local DSM'ers vehicles to repair. I didn't get a chance to touch the car much until just now here in sept/oct where I started to make some progress. Towed the car to work to mig up some stuff on it:

I've fab'd up a tubed front crossmember for the subframe/engine mount.
fab'd a radiator mount, and mocked up the turbo mounting and braced the flange into place for fab of the new turbo header. Will be made out of SS Weld EL's. Glen and myself will be building the turbo header. Glen is also still in the process of fabing my new Sheet metal intake.

I also just recently installed the stainless brake lines as well as the other day installed the dual line locks and fab'd up new hardlines for the line locks.

Heaps left to do, But I'll keep this thread updated as I slowly make progress over the winter months.

Pics:

Car as it was before I parked it in 2007:


Mocking up the new tyres and rims this past spring:




 
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#6 ·
Thanks guys. Appreciate the kind words.

Sorry for the retarded "DSM" this and that parts list, I copied and pasted my build post from our local Winnipeg car forum (all makes and models type forum) that I had posted on there.

I need a welder too :( I've got the car sitting at work at the moment so that I can use our bodyshops MIG at the moment. Friend of mine just picked up a TIG and is storing it at my garage so hopefully before he moves it over to his new house I can start mocking up the header when I get the car back home in the next week or two.
 
#7 ·
Effin sick car.

Looks like you're off to a great start.
 
#11 ·
rebiuld101 said:
I like the way you are going with this build. I was going to do the dual line lock set up for launch purposes, because it is an auto you can preload the driveline by holding the brakes. then just let go of the line lock and your off.
;) Thats another reason I went with the auto, You have the driveline already preloaded unlike a 5spd which you shock the shit out of everything when launching, The line locks came with the Transmission when I bought used off the previous owner, he had previously been using them on his GSX for launches. Actually if anyone here knows a guy named JD Taylor from Alabama this is his old trans, t/case rear diff and engine, I had bought the engine off him when he started parting out his car last year, Then after talking with him for about 2 hours regarding his car (the auto setup he had) a month later when I blew the 5spd again for the 4th time that year I phoned him back up and said ship me the trans! LOL.


Hawaiifiveoh: Line locks are a Solenoid that allows fluid to pass through it, When energized it blocks the passage thus holding the pressure. With the auto's when building boost alot of times the brake booster will get overrun and the car will start to creep (I used to also own a 91 Turbo AWD Auto TSi as well for a year) on you, The plan is to engage the linelocks on the line to hold the car while building boost, then let it go and launch like a bat out of hell.
 
#14 ·
;) Thats another reason I went with the auto, You have the driveline already preloaded unlike a 5spd which you shock the shit out of everything when launching, The line locks came with the Transmission when I bought used off the previous owner, he had previously been using them on his GSX for launches. Actually if anyone here knows a guy named JD Taylor from Alabama this is his old trans, t/case rear diff and engine, I had bought the engine off him when he started parting out his car last year, Then after talking with him for about 2 hours regarding his car (the auto setup he had) a month later when I blew the 5spd again for the 4th time that year I phoned him back up and said ship me the trans! LOL.

7
You can preload a manual vehicle during launches and built automatics shift hard during shifts as well. They haven't escaped that reality.
 
#13 ·
Nice :)
PS. Colin is a great Mechanic. He has done all the work on my car in the past 2 years!
 
#17 ·
I'll try and get more pics soon. I haven't had much time to work on it lately. Did get the rear trunk floor pan cut out of it the other day. Cut it out to put a flat floor in (and go to an alum fuel cell)


The front tube was an Idea I got from Wes Hess (I hope he makes it through and recover's) Basically just looked at the pics of his front end that he did and copied that. Used 1-3/4 mild steel bar for roll cages, Measured up the width it had to be and used a tube bender to put two 90's in it. From there welded on 6x6 steel plates(bent into U shape) and welded those onto the front frame area where the bar was going to be mated up to the frame rail for added strength. From there was just welding it all together and then using some more 6x6 plate to make the front attachment points for the front to rear subframe bolt on rail's.
 
#18 ·
It was dead this afternoon at work so I pulled the car in from outside and picked away at a few things, Installed the Aerocatch Latches I've had sitting around for the past year that just never got installed. Now that the hood latch is gone had to put them on. They're the lockable style to keep meddling kids out of the engine bay.

And here's some pics of the floor cut out. This is what a MB DSM looks like. Rust everywhere.... sigh. I really should have started with a Texas car.









I ordered some new sheet metal and will be fabing a new flat floor pan for it. Wanted a flat floor so I can mount the nitrous bottle and as well a Fire suppression bottle in the back there, With the spare tire lump it's just not really possible.

The aerocatches:








 
#20 ·
Will do Car is in the shop at the moment so I'll take some measurements for ya.. Wes saw my build thread? I would have loved to have met him. I was in Vegas this year for SEMA and I know he had posted on the Other board he was going to be in Vegas at the same time. Being a FNG over there I didn't feel like sending him a PM to say "Hey I'd love to meet up if possible to talk about DSM's" but from reading everything everyone had to say about the guy, I suppose I should have as he sounded like he was one of the nicest guys out there like that. :( RIP So sad. Makes me rethink the number of times I go out tuning AEM's with friends out on the highway. Shit can easily go wrong fast.

I worked on the car again on Saturday. All that is left is to seam seal everything and spray it with some paint. Going to wait till the cage is in the car to paint everything though.

I ended up replacing the one cross brace in the rear just under the floor pan that was rotted out. Figured since I'm halfway there.... sigh... might as well do it. I HATE body work.

I had bought a Woodward Fab bead roller when I was at SEMA this year at one of the tool booths. Put it to good use:

Old Xmember:





Gone!


New Xmember I fab'd up from some flat sheet:


Tacking it in place and welding it in:




 
#21 ·
Floor pan work:











I went with steel as the old floor that came out weights actually nothing. The sheet steel I put in there weights just as little
Plus it looks somewhat stock...
 
#24 ·
Yes very sad what happened to him. But he know what would happen if not done right. We all live fast some faster then others. I meet wes he was an awesome person and was going to help me with my project but he passed. So now I'm going at it alone but knowing he is watching me.
 
#27 ·
Great build. Great your post count up, and I move this to the build diary section.
 
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