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DSS driveshaft yoke

15K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  BIG Ted 
#1 ·
I don't know if anyone else has had this problem with any of their yokes, but after paying around 700 bucks for a driveshaft I am unhappy. The yoke is one of their "custom" pieces. Looking at it makes me think about going down to a local driveline place and seeing what they can do. I wouldn't be surprised if they got something on the shelf.

DSS says their yoke has a year warranty. Hooray for me, I purchased it well over a year ago.

I called driveshaft shop and got a price of 175 for a replacement yoke. The issue here is...well, I'll just let the pics speak for themselves.

I know the u joint is a 1/2 ton gm 1310 piece. The yoke is something I am having issues finding. I believe it is a 21 spline slip yoke, 1 3/8th o.d.

DSS on left, OEM on right in the first two pictures.









 
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#4 ·
From what I have heard DSS takes a stock new DSM yoke cuts off the u-joint section and welds the splines onto the larger u-joint flange. It honestly looks like it when you look at the shaft.

This is what scares me. I've seen heaps of pics and threads about twisted DSS yokes. I just picked up a DSS shaft this summer.

Looking at the shaft on my car (I have to pull it off again and measure) but to me it looks like DSS does not make the shaft long enough to get deep enough on the t/case splines at the yoke. I have to pull a spare T/case apart again here and see how far down the splines could go. But looking at your pics it looks like there is what 2 inches of spline engagement on the 4 inches of yoke?

If this is the case in terms of spline depth I'd almost want to get a custom spacer made up to add into where the DSS mates to the stock shaft with their spacer to push the driveshaft forward and deeper into the T/case.

Thoughts?
 
#6 ·
Colin said:
From what I have heard DSS takes a stock new DSM yoke cuts off the u-joint section and welds the splines onto the larger u-joint flange. It honestly looks like it when you look at the shaft.

This is what scares me. I've seen heaps of pics and threads about twisted DSS yokes. I just picked up a DSS shaft this summer.

Looking at the shaft on my car (I have to pull it off again and measure) but to me it looks like DSS does not make the shaft long enough to get deep enough on the t/case splines at the yoke. I have to pull a spare T/case apart again here and see how far down the splines could go. But looking at your pics it looks like there is what 2 inches of spline engagement on the 4 inches of yoke?

If this is the case in terms of spline depth I'd almost want to get a custom spacer made up to add into where the DSS mates to the stock shaft with their spacer to push the driveshaft forward and deeper into the T/case.

Thoughts?

The DSS yoke goes in 2 1/4 inches. I measured the wear on one of my busted 5 speed output shaft's, splines.

It sure is looking more and more like DSS just cuts and welds the slip yoke part, onto the u joint side. Im gonna see what my brothers have in the backyard. Maybe I can source a proper sized u joint carrier piece (term??) and hack a yoke up.

I still haven't gone down to our local driveline shop. I am sure they can do something for a very reasonable price vs D$$'s $175 price tag.

About the yoke moving in to "hold" more spline on the tcase, its kinda sketchy. Reason being, what we have there is a slip yoke that takes up slop and slides in and out to do so. If you push the yoke too close the the shaft, it will bottom out prematurely wearing the u joints, rear diff pinion shaft and possibly the carrier bearings. All that force pushes back on everything pretty hard under a launch.


yellowrs said:
I have been through 3-4 dss yokes in 2 seasons
So they were replaced under DSS's 1 year warranty?
 
#13 ·
The DSS yoke goes in 2 1/4 inches. I measured the wear on one of my busted 5 speed output shaft's, splines.



About the yoke moving in to "hold" more spline on the tcase, its kinda sketchy. Reason being, what we have there is a slip yoke that takes up slop and slides in and out to do so. If you push the yoke too close the the shaft, it will bottom out prematurely wearing the u joints, rear diff pinion shaft and possibly the carrier bearings. All that force pushes back on everything pretty hard under a launch.
I realize that it's intended to "slip" back and forth but comparing what is sticking out of my t/case in terms of length of slip yoke to what the OEM shaft looked like... and even worse after the Auto trans conversion (auto trans engine brackets pull the trans/t/case over more on the pass side closer to the rad than a 5spd bracket does I just watched it do it when I put my brackets in after finding out my 5spd ones are different)

I'm sure those of us running power to twist yokes have full solid poly mounts that don't allow as much as factory slop requiring X inches of slip. The engine/trans is still going to move and require some slip yoke distance but not far as much as what a stock rubber mount equipped car would.
I'd be inclined to move it in even if its another 1/2 inch to an inch of shaft grip if there is still a good inch of travel play to the slip yoke.

I'm going to run a marker on the yoke of my shaft and then pull it out of the car and measure how much depth mine has today. I have to pull it anyways to put in those new alumn hanger bearing bushings.
 
#7 ·
Is it just me, or does the oem one look beefier/stronger? Granted I don't know anything about DSS.
 
#11 ·
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