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streaknby's 98 TSi AWD Street Terror 2010/2011

27K views 132 replies 24 participants last post by  streaknby 
#1 ·
My first DSM build was a 97 with a built 6 bolt, 3076r, and lots of other stuff. I spent lots of money and put a lot of work to it, but within 6 months the body just rotted away and no longer looked nice. I got a few quotes for the body work and it was WAY out of my budget. So I put it up for sale and in the winter and started looking for a 2Gb DSM in good shape to build a street monster out of. I wanted something that would be quick and reasonably reliable for a heavily modified street car. I looked at lots and lots of cars but wouldn’t buy any of them because I wanted to find one that did not need any body work, no rust and minimal bumps and bruises. You all know how hard that is to do nowadays. I finally found a red 98 TSi AWD for sale that was in pretty good shape but had 260,000km on the odometer, MUCH more than I was hoping, and I was not a big fan of the red... So I kept looking and had no luck finding anything better. I made an offer on the 98 and he accepted and I took it home. It sat for six months, waiting for the 97 to sell. I had no interest for a few months so I dropped the price and got a few calls. BUT I never did get a chance to sell it because I hit the ditch in a winter storm and damaged it beyond repair. So I parted it out, barely made anything but most of it is gone now and finally can get a start on the new project. I finally got the engine and tranny out and then I parked it outside. It went un-touched until last month because school, work, and a few other DSM projects got in the way. But finally last month it came back into the garage and the build begins.

Pics of the 98:


Bone stock


Not long later. Engine and tranny out and axles supported for rolling it around


My biggest fear is I am going to drop 30k into this car and it is going to start to rust just like the other one so I went over the car with a fine tooth comb and found a few spots of rust that I wanted to get touched up before I did anything else to the car. Then while the exhaust and driveshaft is out I want to get the whole underside undercoated. A number of reasons are that it helps with in car road and exhaust noise and easier to clean and looks cleaner overall and it should help prevent rust from starting after all the body work is done. This weekend I am going to jack it up and make sure that there is nothing else in the way of getting the undercoating done.

Also I am going to pull the tail lights because I bought a couple cans of VHT night shades to lightly tint them and am going to pull the headlights apart and paint the housing black.

My hopes and goals for this build started out moderately small. I was thinking somewhere around 400whp on pump gas. But as I started reading about Holset turbo’s I started thinking bigger and got greedy with my power goals. I had my heart set on a T3 HX-40 so I started looking. I knew I needed a good clutch to hold around 600whp (my new goal). Slowboy posted a thread on my local forum having a sale on twin disk clutches. So I contacted Marti and it took about two months worth of deciding and talking about parts and ended up making an order for about 5000USD. This was the worst decision I have ever made. Ever since I sent them the money they have been yanking my chain hard core. I so far have had two wrong turbo’s and with their screw ups on paperwork I am out over 500 dollars not counting phone bills. And I still don’t have the right turbo...

My order consisted of:
BEP T3 Holset HX-40 PRO/Super 7 Blade External Gate
Straightline Performance T3 Tubular Exhaust Manifold
Tial 44mm Wastegate (.9 bar spring)
Power Enterprise Kevlar Timing Belt
PTT Twin Disc Clutch
AEM Methanol Injection Kit with 1 Gallon Tank
Kelford 272’s
Avid Performance Aluminum Motor Mount Kit
Walbro In Tank 255LPH Fuel Pump
Walbro In Line 255LPH Fuel Pump
Goodridge -6an Stainless Tank to Rail Kit
Fuel Lab In-line Fuel Filter
Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit

I knew I wanted a stroker so I started pricing out kits. I was in contact with a friend at Revolution Motorsports and he told me he had a lightly used 2.3l stroker for sale from last season. I was reluctant at first because I wanted to build my own but we talked and the price was right so I picked that up. And I knew it would be good for big power because he ran a couple mid ten second passes and dynoed at ~760whp, I can’t remember the exact number. There were only a couple passes on the motor and about 300km worth of street driving and dyno time. He threw new mains and rod bearings in the bottom for me anyway.

Stroker details:
Knife edged OEM crank, ARP main studs, custom block girdle, ACL coated race bearings, O-ringed block, Pauter Rods, Custom JE Pistons and Rings with Teflon coated side skirts and ceramic coated piston tops and balance shaft bearings are blocked off. The block was prepped with a Revolution Motorsports custom torque plate, when boring and honing was done.

Other Parts I Have Gathered Over the Last Year:
Buschur Stage 3 Head
BC Titanium Valve Springs and Retainers
FIC 1000cc Injectors
Magnus High Flow Fuel Rail
Aeromotive FPR
Unknown Intercooler (24x12x3 with 3” inlets and outlets)
3” Short Route Cold IC Piping
2.5” Hot IC Piping
Tial 50mm BOV
Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator
2x 12” Slim Fans
B&M Short Shifter
ARP L19’s
FP 4” Intake
K&N 9” long 4” round filter
Throttlebodys.com 63mm, Full Shaft, Tapered and Polished NT Throttle Body
2G AEM EMS
AEM UEGO Wideband
AEM Tru Boost Gauge and Controller
AEM Twin Fire
Autometer Cobalt Oil Pressure
Autometer Cobalt EGT
Autometer Cobalt Oil Temp
NT Water Pipe
Fluidampr Crank Pulley
RM Front and Rear Sway Bars
Prothane Front and Rear Suspension Bushing Kits
PC680 Battery and JMF Tray
ExtremePSI Holset Feed and Return Lines
Earls Inline Filter
JMF Small Oil Catch Can
AEM TruBoost 5bar Map Sensor Upgrade
Goodridge SS Brake Lines
RTM Shifter Cable Solid Bushings
Shep Stage 4 w/ Welded Center

I replaced the old tie rod ends with some OEM pieces as well as some new aftermarket swaybar end links. I am sure there are some things I am forgetting but thats is a good start I think.
 
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#97 ·
Alright everybody, so I bet that some of you are wondering what happened to me and what is going on with the build. So here is an update for what has been going on. As some of you know I am getting married and the planning for that has been a total nightmare. I don't want to get into the details but it has not been fun so far. I think all is back on track with that so I can focus on the car again. I have just been sick of working on the car and spending so much money is getting old. So I just have been going really slow with everything, the plan is to still finish it to drive it this season. So far I have finished mounting the IC and finished up the hot side IC piping utilizing the v-band off the turbo to a mild steel bend with the remainder of the piping to the intercooler being aluminum. The cold side piping is done but I'm not completely happy with it. There is too many couplers for my liking so I am still looking for a tight 90* aluminum bend to mate to the non-turbo TB instead of a 3" 90* coupler. Once I find one I will get that welded up to the straight with the BOV flange. I just need a solid pipe to put my meth nozzles so the silicone didnt work that well. It is all 3" aluminum but not polished yet.




 
#98 ·
I also finally completed the install of all five gauges. I built a custom harness all loomed up and beautiful but it ended up being too much of a hassle and I changed my mind on some of the wiring so trying to re wire it with a million wires in the loom was so frustrating so I yanked EVERYTHING out and started from scratch. It ended up looking pretty good but not quite how I wanted. I set up a "little red button" in the centre console for the scramble boost option with my AEM TRUBoost. It looks pretty nice.



 
#99 ·
I bought an HKS Hi-Power exhaust from RTM that ended up being wrong. It's only a cat-back and the first 24" are only 3". Ziggy had to special order it so he would not take it back so I ended up just buying another actual full 3" turbo back by Megan and am VERY pleased with the piece. It looks great and fitment is awesome. Now the Holset is v-band so I ordered a 120* stainless bend and some stainless 3" v-band kits for a friend of mine to fab an o2 housing to mate up to the Megan downpipe. He also did the tig work on my IC piping. All this looks great and should work awesome.






 
#100 ·
I sent my valve cover off to be powder coated black and I intended to polish the letters but when I went to pick up the valve cover they powder coated it red... So they said they would strip it and redo it black but the second time I went back I could tell that they just powder coated it black over the red so if I polished the letters off you would see the red edges and that would not look too nice. Also they powder coated it matte black not gloss black like it was supposed to be. I got it for free for all the hassle and after I installed it I am very impressed with how it looks, even without the letters polished.




I got the catch can mounted and used -8 stainless braided lines going up to the valve cover.


 
#101 ·
I stripped back my main harness completely and removed some of the extra wires that I had removed. While I was at it I pulled the wires from the crank angle sensor all the way back to where the wires for the factory 2g CAS wires were and cut the connectors off and wired it for the 1G CAS using RRE's diagram. It was very simple. I do not know why I was so stressed about tackling the 6 bolt wiring haha. I then reloomed everything and routed the wires just as I wanted them and hooked it all up.


 
#104 ·
It ran for the first time last friday, one week ago exactly. I took it for its first drive in two years and ten months right after that. It runs quite nicely but is pig rich and the car rubs over the bumps with the 255's and the drop I have, I have Megan Street coilovers on their way, should be here monday. I need to install those, get a wheel alignment, set up the TruBoost and re-wire the COP setup that I bought that was wired COMPLETELY wrong. I have a dyno day booked for next saturday at Dynomotive where Toma will be tuning my AEM EMS and we will see what we can get out of her at 22-25psi for a base tune for the last couple weeks of the year.

Over the winter I will be adding my AEM Twin-Fire ignition module, AEM water/meth injection kit, an inline Wally 255 and redoing my upper IC piping and MAYBE a different throttle body. Then it will be re-tuned in the spring at 35psi with ~1000cc/min of meth. Better damn well see 550whp and enough torque to break axles! :D
 
#105 ·
Hit the dyno last Saturday for some tune time and was very successful day after the coil on plugs gave me grief and I rigged up the stock coil pack and some new plugs. She consistently made 444whp and 345ft/lbs at 21psi. I have some charts to upload and a bunch of video. All I can say is with they kinda power I could barely hook up in third gear with the car in FWD. The car made great power over and over and Toma really gave her a beating, he was very impressed with how much power the car made.

All I can say is I am very pleased with how things went and it is a crazy that I am actually able to drive the car after so long!

Video!

 
#107 ·
Well I decided to ditch the Wally 255 in tank for one of the new Aeromotive Stealth 340lph pumps. The install was plug and play and was very quick and easy. It definitely flows more too because I am now ultra rich under WOT. So much for my tune... O well I'll just add some more boost to compensate lol!

My oil pressure sending unit failed and I have have not bought a new one yet for my Autometer gauge so I got the factory one on there right now. Not quite as reassuring but good enough for now. If you guys remember I also removed the factory oil cooler and am running without oil cooling. I have an oil temp gauge and I have not seen higher than 210* yet with hard city driving. Cruising temps are below 180* which is the lowest the gauge reads. I am actually not sure what an acceptable temp for synthetic oil is but I should look it up.

I also had some trouble with the car recently. My PTT already ate an OEM TOB so I will be dropping the tranny this week to replace that. She started howling pretty good when i had it out last friday. I have one on order from the dealer should be here soon. And a very strange problem popped up last week too. I went to start it and the car would fire good and run for approximately 3 seconds then shut off. And I mean shut off as if I turned the key off, not dying slowly or choking out it would just boom shut off. It's very strange. Every once in a while I can get it to stay running and it is completely fine but mainly just shuts down. It seems to shut down mist if the time as soon as I start to load it up but not always. Anyone know what might be going on? The only thing that I can think of is when I was changing my starter I dropped a wrench across the battery terminals and might have fried my AEM ECU. I called tech support and they told me that there is a slim chance that there was damage because of fuses but they cant say for sure.*I sure hope not tho. So hopefully I can figure that out soon. I may end up sending the ECU to AEM in California for them to check it out. So right now the car is not drivable with the bad TOB and the shutting off symptoms. But there is like a foot of snow so it's not like I could drive it anyway.
 
#108 ·
Well I have not been on here to update this in a long time and I have a lot to update.

I figured out the shutting down issue, it was a problem with the AEM so I will be sending that in for repair.

I couple weeks ago I dropped the tranny to change the TOB and once it I got it out I realized then that the bearing seemed fine. No noise of notchyness. My buddy and I started joking o maybe your 6 bolt crank walked... Haha, no we said its a 6 bolt. I decided to drop the oil pan anyway because it seeped a bit of oil. When I dropped the pan I noticed that there were some little gold flakes on the oil pick up screen and my heart dropped. So I grabbed a pry bar and sure enough the crank had play end to end for sure so I used a dial indicator and sure enough .008" end play service spec is .007". Great, my 6 bolt did crank walk.

So currently the engine is back out of the engine bay again and on a stand. I pulled all the main caps and for some reason all the mains look damaged, but the thrust bearing is chewed up really bad. I popped off a couple rod bearings and they look fine, used for sure but fine. I am at a loss for why this happened. It was a brand new oil pump that I primed with a drill before the timing belt went on. Once the engine was in the car and ready to fire I pulled one of the plugs out of the oil filter housing and used a fluid pump to push oil all the way through until I saw it running out on the lifters throught the oil cap. Then I even pulled the engine fuse and cranked it till it was spraying oil everywhere. All this proves to me that there was oil right away as soon as she fired for the first time. This was confirmed to me by my Autometer mechanical pressure gauge in the car. There was oil period. I didnt have any major leaks and the oil was changed four times in 450kms.

In a low oil pressure situation, in my experience, the rod bearings will show the damage first. In this situation the rod bearings look fine and the mains are right toast... Any ideas? I got nothing but a sick feeling and anger brewing up in me... :tat:
 
#109 ·
Any ideas? I have ordered an forged Eagle crank, ACL rod and main bearings, OEM oil pump, and 6 bolt lower timing cover ordered and on the way. But I'm paranoid that if I re assemble the bottom with new parts it's just going to happen again. I would just be fixing the symptom not solving the problem.
 
#110 ·
Wow my friend that seriously s**k ... Please do a thread in the help section and shoot PM to some of our gods ! It would be sad to see you quit if it happen again after blowing all that money. Following you since the first day man !

-Pat
 
#113 ·
Pat, thanks for the support. I'll throw a thread up in there, I always girder about that section.

MuffinMan, the bottom end is a Revolution Motorsports short block, not assembled by me so I cannot comment on that.

Lazy, that is something that I did not think of. But when I got it back I used nearly a whole can of brake clean and a ton of compressed air to try to get it out. Are the baffles necessary? Or can I just take them out to see if there is anything left behind.
 
#117 ·
Well a TON of time has gone by since I updated last and I have probably lost all your guys' interest. But the car is up and running strong again only at 21-22psi still but hauls ass for sure. But to spike some interest again here is a couple videos of the car at the "track". ;)





My wife apologizes for the poor videoing and talking... its only from an iPhone and shaky as hell but at least its video evidence of how she holds up against an exotic... :D
 
#120 ·
*Ran strong* after my twin fire died and left me stranded I threw a used ARC-2 in instead. I could never get the car to right since then. It seem like one day it would be fine and the next it would fall on its face. I was driving it one day and all seemed well. I was giving her a good boot and lost all power and started smoking. I limped it home pulled the intake odd and there was oil dropping out of the Holset. Ordered a rebuild kit and decided to pull the head at the same time to swap it with a new unit. Thankfully I did because when I got it off there were holes in three pistons.:dunno:. I still wanted to drive the car so I yanked the stroker and swapped in a junkyard 2.0 long block. And swapped to DSMLink V3. Again the car was exhibiting the same symptoms as before with intermittent running issues so I got help from an outside source for the tuning and we determined that there was something not right with the spark. Upon further investigation it was determined that the ARC-2 was losing its marbles. It would fire the spark anywhere from 30* advanced to 30* retarded and unfortunately it cost me the stock block too.

So just before heading out on holidays I dropped off the 2.3l rotating assembly and block to get machined, balanced, hot tanked, decked and align honed. Estimated time of completion is May 15. Car shows in my area really pick up in June so I need to get motivated to get her up and running. Pics and detail will follow. This time I went with wiseco pistons 8.5:1 so I'll see how I like that. Thanks for checking in, things will get more interesting soon!
 
#122 ·
Ya that's for sure. Unfortunately I guess that's how it goes sometimes. I think I need to do something different for spark this time. Like an LS coil or something. I know guys say stock coils will run you into nines but I have the worst spark with just a stock coil. I have to turn the lights off to even see it.
 
#123 ·
Re: streaknby's 98 TSi AWD Street Terror 2010/2011/2012/2013/2014/2015 to infinity!

It has become apparent to me that I suck and updates. It has been so long since I have even logged into here and my photobucket accounts I forgot my passwords. :(

Ill give a quick update. I picked up my block and rotating assembly from the machine shop assembled the motor and drove the old girl out of the garage 11 days later. :cool: Everything went together flawlessly except for changing my mind about my ring end gaps after assembling it, tearing it apart and adding a couple mils to each. This was a very hard decision for me because I know end gap is determined by the performance level target (boost/nitrous/etc.) I know when I started this build nearly five years ago I had my heart set on a 35psi 600whp street car build, but as I have gone along breaking and rebuilding I am realizing more and more how much fun the car really is at around 400-500whp and that it is hard enough on parts as it is. Plus as I grow up my priorities and budget are changing, I now own a house, am married and own more practical family vehicles that also require maintenance and some modifications. I really needed to decide where I wanted the car to be from now as I am really hoping that this is the last motor that I have to build for a very long time. :) I built the motor with the wiseco recommended end gaps and was happy but I couldnt stop thinking about it, I ended up tearing it apart and opening up the gaps another .002". That way if I decide to run a race gas tune and more boost I know it is still safe.

I worked with a remote tuner with my V3 and in a short time the car was very streetable but not really into WOT tuning yet, I drove the car around for three months not going over 60% throttle and 15psi. Honestly I wish I had just finished the tuning but I had such a blast driving the car the way that it was and actually just being in the seat and cruising nicely was the best and rewarding feeling, its what I had waited nearly four years for. I even took it on a 1600 mile round trip road trip down into and around Idaho!

In October I was invited to a private track rental with a bunch of friends of mine so I decided it was time to finish the tuning. I laughed at myself when it was really only 5 or so adjustments away from total completion from where I was but o well. Now when I was running AEM I made 444whp (mustang dyno) at 21psi and 9* timing. At 22psi I started getting into knock so thats where we left it. This year, running a stronger motor with compression at 162psi as opposed to the old stroker at ~140psi and the same setup I was able to turn up the boost, on straight 91 octane, to 28psi and still 9* with no knock!! :tat: That is no meth and regular old Shell premium at about 3200ft elevation. The only things that changed was an upgrade to an S90 70mm throttle body and a new BADASS head build by Fox Lake. It does not seem like much but getting that Holset up past 25psi really woke the car up. She pulls much harder than before, I havent put it on the rollers but just a guess would be between 60-80whp more than before on AEM. Now with the tuning done it was time to address another couple small issues to get ready for the track day. I had Driveline Specialties build me a 2 piece 3" driveshaft, as my shaft had 2 really bad u-joints. Once that was done I knew I needed to rebuild the Holset. I opened her up to find a catastrophic failure of the thrust bearing and thrust washer, there was major shaft end to end play, enough that the compressor wheel had worn well into the housing. I do not have pictures right now, but will find some. I decided that since it was late into the season and I wanted to get it to the track day I would just rebuild it and run the damaged wheel and housing. It worked fine but I did lose some spool time. Now that its winter I will get it fully rebuilt, maybe do a 62mm wheel and housing upgrade (anyone done this before?) Unfortunately I had a lot of trouble with my suspension setup at the track. I could not hook up, whether I launched it hard, soft or no launch and rolled out and then went WOT it would wheel hop HARD. I actually snapped my brand new driveshaft off at the front yolk u-joint and beat the shit out of the bottom of my car and ruined my new driveshaft. I was pretty upset about it but since I drove three hours to get to the track I decided to make a day out of it and try to run again FWD unfortunately my wheel hop didnt stop there and I blew up the front diff and took out the bellhousing in dramatic fashion. There goes my Shep stage 4 :(. Ill send that out to him to have a look at it this winter too, I will be going with an LSD front diff (cant decide whether to go KAAZ or Quaife any help would be greatly appreciated) and not sure yet what to do about the center diff. I hate the welded center for DDing the car but I have been through a few stock centers and the 4-spider is so expensive for only a stronger open diff. I really should do an LSD for the center too but with going for a stage 4 rebuild, LSD front and LSD center I am looking at a pretty big bill already. So I am unsure of how to go about this one. I just really need to figure out why she wants to wheel hop so bad. I tried a bunch of different tire pressures too and there was really no change. I have Megan Street coilovers and currently have the dampers set at the max softness. I tried them stiffer last year and had bad wheel hop too. I need help from someone more knowledgeable on setting suspension up in a full weight 2G. I am running 255 Kumho Ecsta XS tires, the track was prepped and I was running about 27psi all around to start, I tried as low as 21psi and as high as 33psi. No change, hops like a bunny whatever I do. :confused:

I pulled the Shep our and swapped in a stock trans with a welded center that I had as a spare and am still cruising around on days when the sun is out and its above freezing. Soon will be time to park the car and get to work on the few things I want to have done for spring. Mainly rebuild the turbo, new trans, new baffled valve cover (no baffles sucks) and install the AEM meth kit I have had sitting in the basement for 5 years... :)

That's where I am at with the car, it has been a great summer for us. I spend way more time driving then I did wrenching. The car never left me stranded this year as opposed to getting towed home 8 out of 10 times last summer. Ill try to keep this updated better, it is good to be back!
 
#124 ·
I know when I started this build nearly five years ago I had my heart set on a 35psi 600whp street car build, but as I have gone along breaking and rebuilding I am realizing more and more how much fun the car really is at around 400-500whp and that it is hard enough on parts as it is. Plus as I grow up my priorities and budget are changing, I now own a house, am married and own more practical family vehicles that also require maintenance and some modifications.
Quite an update. I feel the same way, and have seen the general trend of car guys here tone down their goals because they value the about of drivable time that they can spend in their cars more than having XXXhp or XX.XX1/4 mile time.

I will be going with an LSD front diff (cant decide whether to go KAAZ or Quaife any help would be greatly appreciated
Keep this updated on what you decide for an LSD and why.
 
#125 ·
Quite an update. I feel the same way, and have seen the general trend of car guys here tone down their goals because they value the about of drivable time that they can spend in their cars more than having XXXhp or XX.XX1/4 mile time.



Keep this updated on what you decide for an LSD and why.
I daily drive my car in the summer and do not have the self control that it takes to not beat on it. If I had a 600whp DD I would lose my license and break things constantly. I still may do a track day race gas tune with maybe 30psi, instead of 28psi, and just add timing. That way I am not having to worry about blowing off intercooler couplers all the time and having to upgrade injectors. I also will be finally installing the meth injection kit, that I have had forever, to help lower IAT's. I really would like to see it run a 130mph at my elevation here but with the closest track 3 hours away it wont see a lot of track time.

For the front LSD I really like the idea of the clutch style KAAZ, I hear they are a little loud and a more raw driving experience, and it is also cheaper. I do not like that you have to run special KAAZ oil in the tranny. I like that the Quaife is a little toned down and would be better suited for a street car but that fact that it still can act as an open diff if one corner is not getting traction annoys me. On the street or track if you lose traction on one corner will there still be enough load to lock the diff? Or will it send all the power to the slipping corner and the other side just free wheels? Or would there still be enough resistance for the diff to lock?

These decisions kill me, it takes me so long to decide and I always second guess myself. I doesnt help that there are such varying opinions on the internet either. :eek:
 
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