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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently got a manual boost controller and after instal my guage would read 1.96 bar (28psi). Thats not the half of it, i got the controller turned off. why would it do that off. Ok so i thaught what if i turn it on. well after blowing my head gasket and spending about $1000 on fixing my sqrew up, I took the damn thing off. now im back to good old 11 psi. What in the world is up with this thing. Any body got any suggestions?
 

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what kind of manual controller is it?? also explain how it is hooked up.

bill
 

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what brand, and where did you get the boost controler from? I'm assuming its a manual one, and my guess is that it wasn't assembled properly. Sounds like the bleeder valve was locked shut. Actually another possibility is that you didn't install it properly. that seems like the most likely possibility. Id go over and check all the conections you made. You probably hooked up one or more of the hoses incorrectly. I think the V-faqs page: http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html
has the info for the correct installation.

By the way, i am very curious to know what kind of turbo you have that was able to produce so much boost. And what gen car do you have?
 

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gsxalex....back when i had my t-25 on my 95 awd, i had just installed upper and lower ic pipes and forgot to put the vacume line back on the wg diaphram, well i went out to give it hell and for a second the boost pegged my autometer 30psi boost gauge before i let off. it also blew about 4 vacume lines off from different locations in the engine bay. lucky for me it didn't do any other damage.
so to answer your question the smallest of small turbos is capable of 30psi, probally not for more than a second but enough to damage an engine.
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>I'm assuming its a manual one, and my guess is that it wasn't assembled properly.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>I'm assuming its an electronic one since he stated "on" and "off". :) Probably there is an error in installation.

Like Bill said, it would be helpful to state what type/brand of bc it is.
 

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Another thing to check, might be the gauge itself. What did it read before? And did anything about the way it was hooked up change? I can't imagine that you would actually be seeing 28 PSI on pump gas without some other serious problems (or sounds) happening. I'm no expert, but that is my 2 cents.
Also isn't there a manual boost controller that can be switched from inside the car? I remember reading about one once.

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Brian P.
Best time: won't even try until I get a decent turbo
 

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In the original post he said it was a manula boost controller. But even if it was electronic when the controller is off you will get stock boost. That is what hapened with my EVC III. Then my EVC would get no power whatsoever. I was still able to drive the car. THe only thing was I had stock boost and I couldnt change it till I got the EVC fixed. Got a resistor changed and all was fine
 

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28 psi... sounds like no pressure was getting to the wastegate actuator at all. Let us know how it was set up and what type it was.

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Quadcylla
92 Laser RS-T FWD
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey thanks forthe replys. Its a TUROXS manual boost controller, and im running a stock 14b in a 1G 92 gsx. No fuel mods just 93 oct pump gas. Im not to familiar with the DSM. my last car was a crx on nitros. it was all i could do to pull high 13s and got tired of trying to make somthing slow go fast.But back to the point. I installed the mbc between a brass colored housing on the turbo (waste gate??) and the intake pipe running into the turbo, and thats when all hell broke loose. blown head gasket warped head the works. it dosnt matter how the controller is set it still maxes out. i took it out and its running fine now (after new head and gasket).
 

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"a brass colored housing on the turbo"

Sounds like the wastegate actuator to me. Sounds like you had it hooked up right but for some reason no pressure was flowing from the turbo nipple to the actuator nipple. Did you adjust the boost controller at all? You may have gotten a dead one. Lets say it's plugged and allows no air to pass through... then you actator would never know that the turbo is whip'n out 28 psi so it wouldn't know to close it. Since putting it back to stock fixed everything I'd hav eto say it's the controller or possibly still a hook-up problem.

Sh#tty buzz that it took out the head :(.

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Quadcylla
92 Laser RS-T FWD
 

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Ok i checked the Vfaq page and to my dissappointment i found that he doesn't include a vfaq for boost control hookup.
I still have the instructions from my Hallman boost controler but i don't know which way your boost controler flows pressure. What i mean is that you might hook it up backward, which could have been your problem all along. I also don't know if i should post them here as it is somewhat lengthy and i don't know if there would be any copywrite issues.

It would probably be easiest to just get a new controler(w/instructions). That would insure that you get one that you know works correctly and you would have the proper instructions for its instalation.
Ufortunately it also means you are out some money. But the price would be small compared to your head repair!
Buschur is selling the hallman unit on sale for the next week. It is an excellent quality boost controler, though its not the prettiest of them all.
 

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OK what you all issed he said INTAKE PIPE!!!! DOPH!!!

What happened is that you hooked up the feed like to the intake and not the J pipe. the boost signal must be AFTER the turbo then run down to the W/G ( the Brass looking thing ) there is no pressure in the intake (from the filter to the turbo ) but the pressure is after the turbo on that black pipe that is bolted to it that runs to the intercooler.

Now if you didn't have it this way then you might have had it hooked up right but the conrtoler was hooked up backwords. A boost controler is a 1 way valve so if you do it wrong you will have unlimited boost
 

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Hehe... can't believe I missed that. Ya having it pre--turbo would provide no pressure to the wastegate actuator so it would never open... thus the boost wouldn't max out where it's suppose to.

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Quadcylla
92 Laser RS-T FWD
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok are you guys talking about the black pipe that leads down to the bottom of the ic? thats wher its hooked up at. i dont know if your familiar with the turboxs mbs but i had it with the bottom hose going to the bottom ic pipe and the side hose to the wastegate actuthingy. is that backwards?
 

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Ok, looks we might be making some progress here. Thanks for pointing out the vital info, rdy2race.

Ok, if your boost controler flows the same way as mine(most likely) then the hose that comes out of the side goes to the wastegate actuater, which is the circular brass colored(mines all dull and oxidized now) piece with 6 or so inch rod coming out of it that connects to the wastegate valve arm.
*It sounds like you had that part right*

The other hose gets cut-in(with a "T" fitting) into the hose that leads from the intake manifold to the CBV(compressor bypass valve). The CBV is the circular valve that is on the intercooler piping. It rests right on top of the airfilter canister.
Your boostgauge is most likely hooked into the same hose.

If you dont have a pnumatic "T" fitting, you can most likely find them for cheap at your local auto parts store.

And by the way, when you try the boost controler again it would be a good idea to get on the gas slowly so the boost climbs slow enough that you don't overboost accidentaly again.


[This message has been edited by gsxalex (edited August 23, 2000).]
 

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I've got a '91 Tsi with a Hallman and it's like this: line parallel with adj. goes to "T" between BOV and intake manifold, line 90 deg. to adj. goes to WG actuator. There should be a "T" between WG line and mbc. The line off this "T" goes to air can housing if you're still using air can. "J" pipe nipple gets capped off. Now with my VPC the "T" between the WG and MBC just stays open to atmosphere. Make sure you don't have adjusting screw turned in too much. In on the adj. screw is increase in boost.

[This message has been edited by frontdriver (edited August 23, 2000).]
 

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Where did you get this from? Don't spen the cash on the electronic. it's not worth it. Joe P makes a GREAT MBC and is simple and work just fine. ( www.turbologic.com/joepmbc/ )


Now another Q is did you d what i said and bypass the MBC all togeather?? we all might be over loking that there is something wrong with the car. Just run the hose from the black pipe that is bolted to the turbo ( the smaller of the 2 pipes on the cold side, where you have you boost controler hooked up now ) and just run that line to the W/G. this should bring boost down to 7-9 PSI but we would at least know that it is working alright and that it IS the boostcontroler and nothing else. BTW just check out Joe P site. it explains a lot and The MBC you have now is no better then any other on the market.

marketing is 99% hype this is why Joe's MBC is about $50 and that one is a HELL of a lot more.

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Bill Marino
NYC DSM
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks man those instuctions are great. im gonna tryit when i get off today. if all goes well i will take it to the track friday for the first time (got it a month ago)and let you all know what happend. thank again all
 

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Yeah it does sound like he is hooking it up wrong. I say spend the loot and go electroic. HEHEHE only kidding. I would call up TurboXS. See if they can help you. Or even call Alamo Motor Sports. They sell the TurboXS MBC and see if they can help you out their number is 1 (225) 755 - 6177 or you can email them at [email protected]

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