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You read right. This thread will be informative on fitting the 1g NT to the 4g64 block.
Keep in mind that there really isn't much information out there on how to do this.
This will be an ongoing updated thread. It won't be a tut right off the bat!
This is an experiment not to SEE if it will fit, but MAKE it fit, If any modifications are needed to the head, they will be posted as well as which header set to buy.

For this I am using a dnamotoring 1g nt header (BALL JOINT BETWEEN COLLECTOR AND DOWNPIPE!) set that includes: header, j-pipe/collector/ and downpipe (2g is flexpipe, 1g is bent slightly, should work the same!)
I will also be using a DSG 2.25" catback (its nt bite me) and test pipe.

The reason for this is because my oem header has a crack in the weld in cyl 2 and is really rusted. Another reason is the test pipe on right now is 2" (smaller than oem) and I don't have a spot for the 1st o2 sensor, this will fix all these problems.

Note: use penetrant on your exhaust studs so you don't shear them!
You will be deleting your rear o2 sensor (you don't need it anyway).

I will be updating this thread on 1/4/13 to update progress, if not, completion.
Thanks for viewing and please support this, I'm a test dummy at this point.

UPDATE: I finished this project on the 4th, didnt get a chance to update til now.
i will now form this into a tutorial:

1) First step is simple, put pentrant on all the bolts of you exhaust up until your mid pipe (directly under the center of the car). Wait about 5-10 mins and remove your old header, collector, downpipe, cat, rear o2, & midpipe.



2) Clean up your exhaust ports and make sure theres no corrosion where the gasket will be.

3) Go ahead and get your new gasket & header put on. Note: a 1G header WILL fit! it may not seem like it will at first, but i assure you it will. The Technique for getting it on is to get the Left side on as much as you can, but make sure there isn't too much of an angle to where the flange gouges the studs! On the 2 14mm nuts on the bottom corners and the 7 12mm on the rest (top first). Tighten them down from left to right and they will slowly pull the header to the block.



4) Put the studs in the lower header flange and make sure you use thread lock or they may vibrate out (mine did). Put the gasket on the Collector and bolt it to the header (again use thread lock).
NOTE: If your car is lowered a lot, you may need to head the collector up and bend it right at its bend point because the collector sits slightly below where the side skirts do.



5) Put the the downpipe on using this: Put the flanges close together and from left to right it should be this order: Bolt head, Washer, Flange, Spring, Flange, Nut. Do the same for the other side too. Leave it sort of lose so you can adjust it.



6) Put your gasket on and connect the HighFlow Cat (Test Pipe(make sure the balljoint is tight enough to where the the weight wont drag it down)).

7) Put your midpipe up to the rear flange on your catback and make a measurement to where the the flange (cat) ends on the mid pipe. Make the measurement and then mark maybe 1.5" back to where you'll be cutting the midpipe.



8) Cut the midpipe at the 1.5" mark back you made and cut the flange off 1.5" back from the inside of the flange.

9) TIG Weld the the flange back on the midpipe, make sure you're atleast close to level (if its a little off the balljoint can to adjusted to compensate). You could also use a sleeve over the cuts and use 2 2.25" exhaust clamps (you need to force them on and squeeze the studs close to get the cup on)



10) Put everything back together and make sure you use threadlock! put the front O2 Sensor in the header spot and unhook the O2 harness from the stock position, run it up to the front and Congrats! youre done! be sure to tighten up the bolts every now again until they don't loosen anymore and youre golden!


 

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Great thread, this should come in handy 4 some1 else on here.
Great job btw
 

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Have the same (or almost the same) exhaust on my car. Had to replace because factory header was cracked. Cost was around $150 for the pipes, although some supports were not allined right.
Great tutorial, pointblank9957. Thanks to you I see an easier way of doing this.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Have the same (or almost the same) exhaust on my car. Had to replace because factory header was cracked. Cost was around $150 for the pipes, although some supports were not allined right.
Great tutorial, pointblank9957. Thanks to you I see an easier way of doing this.
mine too, the #2 header had a crack between the pipe and flange and had a nasty exhaust leak, this did the trick and was pretty simple ;)
 

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Pointbreak, how did you get the header on? It's seems the bolts are just slightly off, not allowing to tighten any bolts. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Ponies are for Girls, Bow ties are for Sunday School Boys.....Diamonds are FOREVER!!!
 

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I mean, do I tighten the top 12mm bolts 1st? Or do I tighten the bottom left 14mm bolt, then only the top 12mm bolts from left to right?
 

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Still not sure what you mean. You shouldn't have to force anything to fit with bolt pressure. You DO have a Nt spyder with a 4g64 right? If you have a NT coupe with 420a this is not the same engine and parts will not swap between them.
 

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If it is simply a defect in the machining of drilling it might help, but if things are welded wrong or it isn't the right header no and then you would not be able to return the item. POST A PICTURE.
 
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