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Discussion Starter #1
i've done searches and i found out most of the stuff i need to know.... i found all the info on Magnus motorsports and RRE.. but i when i hit the end or the build up.. i got lost with this part... for some reason this isn't making sence to me"On a 95-96 car with stock 2G head Swap Plugs 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 (order is not important)" :confused: .. because all i plan on doing is using a 6bolt bottom end and keeping my 2g head...y would i have to swap plugs around.. if all im doing is changing the bottom end?
 

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Why would you want to use a 2g head on a 6bolt block? If i am not mistaken the 1g intake ports flow more air than the 2g head does.
 

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I used my 2G head on a 6 bolt bottom end, I bought a freshly rebuilt longblock and didn't have money to buy a 1G head at the same time, so I just used the 2G one. I had to drill out the holes to fit over the ARP studs and that's really all I had to change on the head. It works fine. As far as swapping plugs, I didn't have to do that since mine is a 97 but the reason for the swapping is because the ecu fires the coils in a different order on 95-96 cars for some reason, it has to do with the timing and which pistons are at the top.
 

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to my understanding you will be fine with the 2g head on the 1g block i put a 97 eclipse engine in my 95 talon all i had to do was use my 95 cam gear and 95 cas so i see no problem with what you are doing but im still new to dsm so you should not take my word for it
 

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2g Heads have alot more potential than a 1g head... You cant really "port" a 1g head like u can a 2g., if you port out your 2g head, it will be much better than a 1g or ported 1g head. You can port the flange and pop a1g intake manifold on that nukka :) So pretty much, do the 6 bolt bottom end and keep the 2g head and port that. And btw, if you going to do a 1g head, I would recommend a 97-99 CAS..
 

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The reason is the 95-96 have the crank sensor on the block and the cam sensor on the cam, when you do a swap you have to install the cas from a 1g. and it sequences injectors and coils 180* out of time
 

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Discussion Starter #9
im just doing a 6bolt bottom end.. thats all i got available at this current time...i rather do the 2g head because i just want to go through the hasle of re doin ecu pin outs and setting up a CAS ... i jus rather go with the bottom end to get me by for now...
 

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I am no pro on this but even with porting on the 2G head you would still need a better intake manifold and throttle body to surpass the 1G setup, from what I have head the 1G head flows better, its stock intake manifold flows better, and 1G has 60mm throttle body vs. the 2G 54mm.

It’s like you comparing apples and oranges, anything with some work on it has the potential to surpass stock setups but for anyone that just wants some better flow on a stock setup the 1G head is the way to go.

I almost decided to use my 2G head on my 6 bolt swap because the CAS sounded like a nightmare to do for us unfamiliar with the 4G63 setup but the CAS wire harness from RRE made me feel better and pushed me to want to keep the 1G head and I am glad I did when I compared the 1G parts to the 2G parts.

Thanks
RevivedDSM
 

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^ exactly.

And how sure are you. Aren't the water gallies in the head closer to where you would be porting on a 2g? And honestly... I'd rather do an hour of porting than many. I could touch up a 1g head and manifold in 1/4 of the time it would take you to get to where the 1g started. Throw it on and call it a day. And STILL make great power.

All that porting isn't going to do you any real good without o/s valves anyway. Make the hallway as big as you want, if you still have to push it all thru a man door. You could actually lose some low end power if you haphazardly hog it all out, or don't know what you're doing. And on the pic, congratulations! You've reached where the 1g started! :rolleyes:
See what I mean? And it still isn't the same as getting the WHOLE way in there and shaping the wall that brings the air to the valve seat. And the ridge in the middle.
So I ask you, why not start with a 1g head and do 75% less labor?
You're not going to reach the full potential of either head. You're not a professional head porter with a flow bench. With the same time spent on a 1g head you would be 200% further down the same path...

Not to mention 2g cams suck.
1g have higher lift anyway.
:cool:
 

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I also did the 2g head on the 1g block, and like talontsi222 I portmatched to the 1g intake manifold and I'm also using the 1g throttle body. The 2g head has a steeper intake angle than the 1g head, and I've heard the port just flows better, but not as much air...until you port it. Yes you can mess it up to the point that it will have worse performance. I don't really know what I'm doing but I can tell you that ultimately that air has to flow through the same size valves in either head, so a better design to me sounds like...a better design.

There's a guy locally running 12.1 with a 2g head and 1g intake manifold and TB. I know that doesn't seem all that fast...except that our track is at 5,800 feet (that's easily a mid 11 at lower altitude). That's also with 91 octane.

I'd like to see a 1g head with 1g intake compared to a 2g head with 1g intake, but who's going to swap heads just to prove a point. Can anyone get these on a flowbench maybe?

Pics and info on my car here:
http://home.comcast.net/~saramasters/performance.htm
 

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Which is why a simple touch up on a 1g to shape the wall, thin the grooves and ... TA DA, over size valves makes big power on a 1g head cake.
I put 1mm o/s valves in mine. Its not expensive. And probably the best finishing touch to all that hard work you're doing porting it.

I didn't say it couldn't be done. I said EASIER. As in out of the box, its less work. And if your shaping the passageway you can cut any angle you please. (To a point)

I'm not on a high chair here like I'm a pro either. I just had the luxury of sitting down at SBR with a stage 5 head and 20 minutes to commit every turn into memory as the guy explained the idea and the method. Made my fucking week let me tell you. ;)
Where to watch the fluid gallies, ect. If you've never seen one, see one.
Then when you're done looking get your damn fingers in there and feel it out. Makes remembering easier.
That and looking at its like hot sex. ;)
I went super conservative because I'm not a pro. And I make great power on a mostly stock car. It responds better than cars with way more done.
(bolt ons ect) Why? Good starting point. I was saying go with the 1g because I'm no expert either. And it seems like an easier place to start at, to get where you want. I believe you can run stupid numbers on a 2g head. Its still connected to a 4g63 and a turbo. ;)
How couldn't it?
 

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Um... if you use a 6 bolt block you are going to have to use a 1G cas because the 6 bolt doesn't have the crank position sensor.. you can't use a 2G one unless you do the 6 bolt the hard way and put on the 2g front cover and oil pump and all that crap.
 

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Ok so let me get this stright, i want to do my 6 bolt swap this winter and im new to it also. I have done some reasearch and learned quite a bit. But heres my MAIN question. Im putting in a 6bolt bottom end longblock. I want to use my 98 GSX head so a 2G. reason is an eaiser sway as mesioned above. Well can i just use my stock 2G head like untoched, use the factory 2G CAS and be done with it? this would make life eaiser by not to mess with wireing the 1G cas in and all that crap. If i can im just going to drop in a 1G longblock built and just set my 2G head back on...will i need to do anything to get the 2G head to fit besides drill the holes out for the ARP's(thats what i was told)?

please help me out on what i need to do the 1G bottom 2G top and not have CEL problems and simple as possible. Thanks guys
 

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i read it and it still dosnt answer my question completely? :(
 

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Discussion Starter #18
same here im still lost... i read the magnus write up.. n i read the RRE write up.. the whole assembly i understood.. but i was a little lost on the sparkplug wire locations but now im hearing i gotta redo the CAS so im back to bein lost.l. im semi confused i guess u could say :confused:
like i said.. before.. all i wanted to do is a complete 1g bottom end... and use my stock 2g head for now as a temp untill i can get more money going... for mods.. this is going to be a daily driver for now...i just wanted to go to a stronger bottom end since im pulling my 7bolt soon...
 

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Gsxant said:
same here im still lost... i read the magnus write up.. n i read the RRE write up.. the whole assembly i understood.. but i was a little lost on the sparkplug wire locations but now im hearing i gotta redo the CAS so im back to bein lost.l. im semi confused i guess u could say :confused:
like i said.. before.. all i wanted to do is a complete 1g bottom end... and use my stock 2g head for now as a temp untill i can get more money going... for mods.. this is going to be a daily driver for now...i just wanted to go to a stronger bottom end since im pulling my 7bolt soon...
Simply...

If you use a 6 bolt bottom end you must use a 1g CAS (unless you do the old method of putting a 6 bolt into a 2g where you use the 2g front case...but that's a HUGE pain). Using the 1g CAS is very simple.

You can use any head with the 6 bolt motor.

If you build the CAS inversion circuit (for 95-96 cars), you won't have to worry about swapping any plugs.
 

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what i think is going on is the 1g cas works as a crank & cam sensor and a 2g 95-96 has two sepret sensor's one for the crank and one for the cam ..the 2g 95-96 cam sensor bolt on the head and the crank sensor bolts on the 2g block im not sure about the 97-up ..1g block probly dont have a place to bolt the 2g 95-96 crank sensor i hope i havent mad the worse for you lol
 
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