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Need help anyone replaced the rear main seal on this specific block before?
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Well...the transmission is out of the way so the hard part is done. I did mine with the engine out during a rebuild. Fairly straightforward. Just make sure you put the nylon sleeve guide on the right way when installing. Theres a wide end and narrow end. Wider end fits over the crankshaft obviously. Blue Loctite on the bolts and torque to spec in a criss cross pattern I forget. Maybe 70-80ft lbs? You can find that info easily enough online or go to the library (if its open) and borrow a Chiltons service manual for that car like I did. Here are 2 videos for a neon. Same setup. Perfect for you. Since my motor was out and crank removed taking my old seal out was easy. To remove one with the crank in the motor you can use a seal removal tool or drill a small hole in the seal and use a sheet metal screw then grab it. This video shows the seal removal using a screw. He also lubes the seal before install and notes that some say to install dry. Follow directions for your seal. PROBLEMS with this video! He DOESNT use a nylon seal installer sleeve which is INCORRECT! YOU MUST USE the seal installer sleeve to prevent from screwing up the new seal! His may also not be installed quite deep enough so watch this one ONLY for the screw removal method.
***THEN WATCH THIS ONE FOR THE CORRECT INSTALL METHOD with a Fel Pro seal (installs dry) and he DOES USE included sleeve tool and installs it deep enough.
I suggest watching this one from 6:35 as the beginning is just prep for neon trans removal. That U shaped paper seal isnt used on our cars. Just the crank seal. 7:21 shows instructions which should be included with the seal. Says to use blue loctite which I already recommended. Also the guy on the video mentions felpro says to install it dry. I probably put a little oil on the crank but honestly dont remember. Havent had any issues 4yrs later. One more thing. Using the old seal to help tap the new one on makes it easier. just slip the old one over the nylon install sleeve that comes with it and tap on the old one instead of the new one so you dont goober it all up. GOOD LUCK!
 

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** UPDATE CORRECTION ** Its been a while since I did this and I mentioned the nylon sleeve wide end faces the crank. Maybe in my INCORRECT memory from 4 years ago?!! But apparently not in reality! DOH!! After watching the video it appears the wide end of the sleeve may face outward Either way it will be obvious which is the outside of the seal. Flat end of the seal you tap on faces out and the hollow end of the seal faces the engine. The seal tends to come with the nylon sleeve pre installed so that should make it easy. If not...i'd say wide end of the nylon sleeve is out and narrow end faces the crank...so install the seal on the nylon sleeve appropriately then slip the sleeve over the crank as far as you can and tap away. That would also mean you'd have to wait until the seal was almost of the way in before removing the nylon sleeve in the event you plan to use the old seal on top of the new one to finish tapping it in the rest of the way. * AND NOTE HOW DEEP THE OLD SEAL IS INSTALLED BEFORE REMOVING IT!! Some may sit flush but as the 2nd video shows it could be recessed a bit. Thought mine was recessed a bit but really dont remember from 4 years ago. ALSO - I located my service manual but it doesnt say anywhere how much torque for the flywheel (if you have a manual or flexplate for automatic) to crankshaft bolt. I did find a thread that says 100lbs though. Blue loctite too! Flywheel Bolts Torque Specifications
 
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