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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I can wire things up properly, but I am not much of an electric diag guy.

I bought a 2g this week for a dd. Funny right, a dsm for a dd. It was a much more sensible solution to buying an evo for a dd, when I have a 1g that eats time and money just fine. Anyway.... I bought the car knowing that it had a passenger window stuck down. He said that he took the door pad off one day to clean it, and put it back together and it did not work. I assumed he was fibbing, but researching on some forums, he gave this same explanation when trying to figure out the problem, prior to selling it.



I took the door pad off to see what was up the first night I bought it. The harness to the switch was dangling there. I was thinking sweet, easy fix. No such luck. So I got out the test light. I grounded the test light to a bolt inside the car. I put the light on the harness coming from the window switch. This harness has 2 wires, and connects to the 2 wires coming straight out of the window motor. I flip the switch, and the light comes on. I put the light on the other pin in the harness and flip the switch the opposite way, and the light comes on. So this would make you think that the switch, and any fuses, relays etc are good, and it must be the motor. Right? So then I put jumper wires to the motor, and the motor works... Switching the wires around (reversing polarity) makes the motor go the oppposite way like it should. So that doesnt make any since. The only thing that I can think of is that there is something wrong with one or both sides harness. I.E. something shorting out etc. But it doesnt look like there is a problem there. The only other thing im thinking is if I did the test wrong. Like I should of grounded the light on the opposite pin of the harness that I had the light on? So that is all I know about that.



Well the next morning the battery is dead. After sitting for hours the battery dies. I automatically assume its to do with that window motor and something shorting out, and thats why he had the harness unplugged. Unplugging that did not help. So today I have been doing parastic draw testing. Got the multimeter out, put in on 10a, on the dial, and put the lead in the amp place on the meter. It reads .4. Addmitedly I have had this meter for years, dont know where the manual is, and do not know if its set up properly. I think it has an auto range on it. Does that mean it automatically adusts it to milliamp or amp? I swithced the dial from amp to milliamp, and they both read .4. Is this .4 amps which would be 40 milliamps? If its 40milliamps, there should not an excessive draw that would cause a problem right? Regardless I started pulling fuses to see if the amperage changed. The power locks are doing strange things, so I think that the actuator is bad. I read on some forums that has caused a draw problem. Took that fuse out, the power window fuse out, and the radio fuse out, and nothing. Actually I think the radio fuse changed it to .38 and im assuming that was for illumination or memeory on the radio?



Now to the reason why I pulled the radio fuse. While driving, if you flip the wipers, or turn signal, or put the car in gear from park, the radio cuts out for a second.. Sounds like a bad ground..



The only other thing I have noticed wrong is that the last couple mornings it would not start I have noticed the narrow band afr gauge has one of the bars illuminated. I do not remember this being this way the morning after I got the car and it started after sitting all night. Im ashamed I havent already disconnected this/see where this is getting power from, to see if that is a problem prior to asking about it. However im taking an ac break, the day isnt over yet, and from what I have heard .4 a shouldnt be causing an excessive drain on the battery.



The reason why I havent looked at the battery is cause It looks brand new, and the alternator is definitely newish. Have not found out if it is an autozone special or not. Ill look later.



On a whim I decided to roll to autozone and test the battery.



The car had been running and driving for an hour after being jumped, so it should of had time to charge... I guess. The test came back, charge battery and re test. They said well if you drove it here, and it will start now, that "probably" means it is bad. Also while have the machine hooked up it was only reading like 13.5 volts while running... Seems just a little low to me but not horribly for our alternators. Dissconected the battery while the car is running, but leave the machine hooked up to the battery cables, and it jumps up a half a volt. I dont know if that is common, but according to the zone, and a friend, that should happen, and the alternator is trying to charge the battery more than it should.



Last bit of info. The fluid level was not only about an inch and half from the top, the specific gravity test, shows that one cell was just barely in the "bad" area, and the other cells were all right on the border line. So I bought a new battery while I was there, but I also bought some battery fluid while I was there. I wasnt sure if the level in the battery was suppose to be to the top, but I know that it took an entire liter to fill all the cells close to the top. So even if that wasnt suppose to be that high im thinking it was a decent amount low anyway. I have never really messed with the the fluid level before, but some freinds have assured me that can be a problem, and a fix.
 

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My car is drawing about.4ish when the vehicle is off, and i as well have done the fuse test with no pleasing results. I also have to jump the car every time and than the voltage/amperage dies shortly after the car is off. If you have any new ideas on what this problem could be let me know, because this problem is driving me up the wall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I meant to update this, because I hate reading a thread that may relate to a problem i am having, then the op doesnt ever say what it was lol. I had several issues. But the main draw was the alternater. I know it does not make since that the alt was bad, since the car would run fine once started. Not to mention it was new. But it was a bad diode in the alt. The gauges ran directly to the battery did not help.. The fact that the battery was newer, but it was bad as well since it had been drawn down so many times, did not help the diag process much either. Still have not fixed the lock rod actuator or the window motor. Charged ac and the window project became less important after 2 weeks of tryin to get the thing to start after sitting.
 
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