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The following is by DSMtalk.com Staff Member 99mmcgsx<BR><BR><img src="http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/FPR/adjustable-fpr.jpg" align="left" border="0"><BR >With the high pressure fuel pumps that most DSM people use, the stock fuel return cannot flow enough fuel back to the tank, and thus keep pressure at the rail consistent and correct. The following is meant to be a quick summary of your choices for adjustable FPRs - perhaps which will start some discussions on other solutions or prices.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               
               
Well, we’ve all seen a lot of threads in the past few months about adjustable fuel pressure regulators (FPRs). With the high pressure fuel pumps that most DSM people use, the stock fuel return cannot flow enough fuel back to the tank, and thus keep pressure at the rail consistent and correct. I’m not going to go into the whole debate here, that’s what the good old search button is for. :D I will say that it’s a hot topic, and many disagree. It’s all about high pressure, non-linear fuel curves, difficult tuning, blah blah blah, you know the rest. Research it, talk to people who know, and make your own decisions. I’m no expert, I’m just summarizing what some other people (who have more experience than I do) have written and suggested.
The following is meant to be a quick summary, perhaps which will start some discussions on other solutions or prices, about the AFPR situation.

Please, if you have other options to add, corrections to any bonehead things I may have typed, or other relevant comments or suggestions, please post them below!! :)


-Weapon*R http://www.weapon-r.com
-Bolt-on. Includes engine-mounted guage and mounting plate to bolt up to the stock 2G rail.
Note: Since it wouldn’t be cool to share emails with everybody, I’ll just say that a very prominent member of the DSM community, in one of the biggest DSM shops, uses this setup on his 11 second street 2G with great success. When I asked if it was in fact a direct bolt-on, he replied that it is in fact a true ‘bolt-on’, and comes with a flange for the end of the stock rail.
Total:
$105 (nopi)…….currently sold out everywhere. Go figure.

Total w/ in-car mount (autometer, silver face, 0-100psi, electric, jegs P/N 105-4463: $190)
$295

-Buschur Racing http://www.buschurracing.com
-Bolt-on. Uses SX adjustable regulator and custom BR mount for the end of the rail.
Total:
$325 including engine-mounted guage

Total w/ in-car mount (autometer, silver face, 0-100psi, electric, jegs P/N 105-4463: $190)
$515

-Spoolinup http://www.spoolinup.com
2G reg not available yet.
1G regulator w/o guage: $130
Jegs 1-1/2" 0-100psi mechanical guage. P/N: 656-103: $20
http://www.jegs.com
Used 1G fuel rail: Free-$50?
http://www.golookinajunkyard.com
Total:
$200 includes engine-mounted guage and $50 1G fuel rail.

Total w/ in-car mount (autometer, silver face, 0-100psi, electric, jegs P/N 105-4463: $190)
$390


-SX adjustable fuel regulator, custom mounted.
This is the method you could use if you were going to just forget about "bolt-on", and make your own setup. This method requires the regulator, an AN fitting off of the stock fuel rail, some braided fuel line, and various AN fittings.
There are currently two ways shown on the vfaq.com site on how to mount an AN fitting onto the stock DSM fuel rail. One way is to modify the stock regulator flange, modify an AN fitting, and weld the two together, essentially making a "bolt-on" AN adapter. Proper welding is key here, and leaks may develop from hairline cracks in the weld. This method is described in the "adjustable fuel regulator" portion of the vfaq.com site by Tom Stangl.
The other way, and the way I feel better about, is to basically drill and tap the end of the stock fuel rail so you can thread a -08AN fitting into the end. This requires some skill in drilling and tapping, and then the proper application of some JB weld into the threads for a tight fit. No, I’ve never done it personally. This method is described by Steve Wells, in the "Stevetek" fuel system portion of the vfaq.com site.
I’m showing the 4 port SX regulator that Buschur sells, and is described by Tom Stangl in his vfaq on this subject. Go read it here: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/FPR.html There are many regulators out there you could use, SX, Paxton, Aeromotive, etc.
Here’s a break down of some of the parts/prices you’ll need….it’s not a complete list, make sure and research this before you try it. All I’m doing here is assembling some basic info for you, it’s up to you to research, ask questions, and get the job done correctly. This is not a recipe, stop reading right here if you haven’t read all of Tom Stangl and Steve Wells' stuff over at www.vfaq.com

* SX adjustable regulator w/guage: $160
http://www.buschurracing.com

* Russell –08AN Flare Union: jegs P/N 799-660361: $5.99
This is what you tap the end of the rail for. This part gets threaded into the end of the rail with some JB weld.
http://www.jegs.com

Note: I just noticed that dsm-performance sells a custom fuel rail which comes with AN fittings in and out that you can specify. That’s another option in addition to welding or tapping the stock rail.
Rumor has it that AEM is making a rail for our car too, but it will probably use the stock regulator outlet.
http://www.dsm-performance.com
Price: $169

* Russell Pro Flex hose, -08AN, 3ft. (use a fuel line diameter that fits your car’s needs)
$17, jegs P/N 799-632100

* Russell –08AN hose ends (2)
$7.49ea…total $15, jegs P/N 799-610030

With the hose ends and hose, you will make the line which goes from the AN fitting on the end of the rail to the fitting at the regulator.

* Russell Flare union reducer, -08AN to –10AN, jegs P/N 799-661791: $12
This is to go from the –08AN line to the –10AN port on the SX regulator.

* Aeroquip Flare Plug –10AN, jegs P/N 023-FCM3716: $5
This plugs up the unused port from the regulator.

You’ll also need some way of attaching the stock return line, if you still use that. For the buschur setup, they use a simple barb fitting threaded into the regulator. I don’t know exactly the size/type used, but most of the styles cost around: $20

Total:
$235 includes engine-mounted guage ($405 w/dsm-p rail)

Total w/ in-car mount (autometer, silver face, 0-100psi, electric, jegs P/N 105-4463: $190)
$425 ($595 w/dsm-p rail)


So here’s the price breakdown, lowest to highest:

Engine mounted guage:
$105 Weapon-R (sold out)
$200 Spoolinup (1g reg, 1g rail)
$235 Custom SX regulator.
$325 Buschur Racing SX kit
$405 Custom SX setup with dsm-p rail (requires inlet parts as well)

In-car mounted guages:
$295 Weapon-R (sold out)
$390 Spoolinup (1g reg, 1g rail)
$425 Custom SX regulator.
$515 Buschur Racing SX kit
$595 Custom SX setup with dsm-p rail (requires inlet parts as well)

Questions or comments? Please discuss in the original thread here.
 
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