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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the Mike J (hey that's me) MAF mod (to avoid fuel cut), a walbro 255 high flow pump ($115) and the rewire... I run 21 psi on race gas at the track on my stock 14. Pump gas (94 octane) starts knocking for me around 17~18 psi though with the stock intercooler so on the street that's where I run it.

-so stock pump no rewire: 15 psi
-with rewire: 16~17 psi
-with good upgraded pump: 20~21 (maybe mroe but the turbo will be pretty maxed) psi on race gas,17~18 on pump gas


Gotta solve fuel cut too though :). SAFC or MAF mod or something else.

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Quadcylla
92 Laser RS-T FWD
 

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any body know how much psi you can push out of a 14b and still be safe?
(FYI) thermal cat back,hks intake,MBS, thats it. no fuel mods just 93oct pumpgas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No fuel mods.... then 15 psi. Get and a/f gauge to be sure.

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Quadcylla
92 Laser RS-T FWD
 

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I use the Mike J MAS mod and I run 17psi no problems on the stock turbo...no fuel cut...just be sure you have an upgraded boost gauge and an A/F gauge.
 

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QUADCYLLA where did you get the Walbro for $115 ?! I'm getting one today and About to pay $175 for it, where can I get it for a better price?
Please let me know.
THANK YOU!
Mike
RalliArt
 

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mike
try either carparts.com or wrenchhead.com(cant remember which one) for the walbro 255lph($115). it's under the granetelli name, but they all are walbro's. same pump fits everything from mustangs to honda's.

good luck,
bill

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95 tsi-awd
91 tsi-fwd
95 civic turbo
82 gti
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Right here.

This guy is straight up. I've sent a tonne of DSM Canada guys to him already. You won't find a better deal.

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Quadcylla
92 Laser RS-T FWD
 

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ok great got a pump on the way, thanks to you guys i figured out that cool bov and ebs can wait (got a mbc). but what is rewire?
and what should i do with this starion fmic i got for $35. should i wait to install?
 

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you may not want to try this at home but Quadcylla can attest to this, with a whole lotta fuel pressure a good pump and rewire with a front mount, and race gas. we were able to run 26 psi on the 14b.
Mind you you would only be able to do this on a 14b because it became such a huge restriction it acted like a big EGR valve. with the amount of backpressure it creates it doesn't get all the exhaust out, diluting the intake charge, saving it from detonating. It doesn't do much good, except down low where it makes a ton of torque. 12.7 were had that day it later did 12.5 with a sheetmetal intake. low MPH 107. alot of it was 60ft
 

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so you can run as much psi as you want (10-30) as long as you dont lean out? or is it harder than that. in the honda i couldnt put more than 8 psi with out internals. thats why i sold it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Almost... you can run as much as you want (10~25) as long as you don't lean out and as long as your exhaust gas temperature don't go too high. The 14 is pretty ****ty above 20 psi anyway... it just throws too much heat into the incoming air. Plus your stock 1G BOV leaks above 20 psi I believe. I'd say stay around 20 at the most with race gas if you don't have a good FMIC. 17 on the street. That's fairly safe. But you will be pushing the temperature envelope at the track running 20 psi so I recommend a EGT gauge. I think Westach (sp?) sells them fairly cheap.

There's always a chance something weak will blow though... that's the price of this game. As Magnus always says... 'You gotta pay to play'.

I don't have a FMIC.... so I won't push past 20~21 psi with the fuel mods above (with race gas). I also only do 1 or 2 runs between cool downs to reduce the heat.


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Quadcylla
92 Laser RS-T FWD
 

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What EGTs are safe? Or preferably at what temperature do they start to be "unsafe"?

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95GSX
 

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at about 900C or 1650 F the pistons are going to melt. this is if taped in the manf. #1 runner is the leanest so tap that one. If you tap the O2 housing by the o2 sensor look for 1200 Deg F and a more all over Reading but it is better to tap #1 as it is always the leanest.

Words from the Wize man at RRE (Mike W.)

"The BI%*H never ran as good as it did just before it melted!"

So this shows you that is the limit and if you ride the edge it will run its best. I have pushed cars to 950C but hey=-) that's me hehehe

Now about Boost

About 20 PSI the head starts to "Float" this means the head is lifting off the block and less crush is on the head gasket. this is a open invite to blow the head gasket out with the compression or even better warp the head.

JOY!!!

ARP Head studs help keep the head in place for high boost.

Bill Marino
NYC DSM
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>
Do you have to replace the head gasket to put in arp head studs. or can you do them one at a time? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

why not kill both birds with that stone?!

It is a big pain to take off the timing belt, and then worry about getting the timing right when you put it back together. I' cant imagine why anyone wouldn't want to do every thing at the same time.

The studs are around $100 and the stock gasket is about $50. Save your self some headache and throw on a new timing belt while your at it.

[This message has been edited by gsxalex (edited September 06, 2000).]
 
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