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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just had an alignment done on my GS. I just installed the Eibach Prokit and Tokico illumina struts on my car. So before I drove it I wanted to make sure I got an alignment. I took it to the shop today they put it on the rack. I purchased an Ingalls rear camber kit which most people suggested which is NOT installed yet. I wanted to see if they suggested it first.... We'll apparently they said I did not need it but I think it still does. What are your alls thoughts? Another issue is like most 2g's mine is prone to the right side being out of spec. Now my car is pulling to the left it seems. The guy said it might be the tires but they are basically brand new. Still have the nipples on them. They are factory 17" GSX wheels. One of them had slight bent lip on it but I fixed that and they all hold air good now. This still could be the problem I haven't moved it to the other side to see if it corrects the issue. I just wanted to bounce this off of you all. Below is the print out they gave me. Also notice it says AWD when mine is FWD will this make a difference??? Thanks in advance.

 

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I'm thinking since you had the GSX rims, thats why it says "W/ 17" wheel (AWD). I doubt that has anything to do with how they aligned the car, as strait wheels are strait whether is AWD, 1 wheel drive, 3 wheel drive, or whatever. I'm pretty sure they are just making everything line up strait and true.
 

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You have too much negative camber in the rear and too much negative camber on the right front (Based on the specs. Anyways, -1.2 is a good number for a performance driven streetcar). The rear camber is a little excessive for a daily driven car and can lead to tires locking up under braking and a "loose" rear in the wet. Based on your spec sheet, your car should be pulling to the right, but you could have a serious tire pull. I assume you have directional tires, so you can't swap the front tires to see if the pull changes direction, but you can rotate the tires front to rear and see if there is any change. I'm not familiar with 2g suspension, but it looks like you need camber kits front and rear.
 

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Why they didnt suggest you needing a camber kit is rediculous. Your almost twice as far outta spec in the rear so why not suggest them. Unless the tech is too lazy to do it which is more then likely. Judging by your readings you may have a slight pull to the left since the caster is favored on the right side (which it's supposed to be), but also your way negative camber on the front right which will add to your pull to the left.

As for the tech's tire suggestion. It is possible. I have seen brand new tires create a pull and usually we will just cross them in the front and the pull goes away. Unless your tires were worn into your previous specs but I don't see that being the case since they're new. And ya can't cross them if you're running directionals so try front to back.

If you ask me looking at your readings, you are a victim of a "Toe And Go" situation. Meaning they didn't feel like doing kits when they obviously should have, or they were just too damn busy and figured you would pay the labor to have it done. With a typical camber kit replacing a strut mount bolt with one that's cammed, I charge a 1/2hr per corner at $85 a hour. Plus the additional cost of the alignment.

So basically. If you wanna play you have to pay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
JamesH said:
Why they didnt suggest you needing a camber kit is rediculous. Your almost twice as far outta spec in the rear so why not suggest them. Unless the tech is too lazy to do it which is more then likely. Judging by your readings you may have a slight pull to the left since the caster is favored on the right side (which it's supposed to be), but also your way negative camber on the front right which will add to your pull to the left.

As for the tech's tire suggestion. It is possible. I have seen brand new tires create a pull and usually we will just cross them in the front and the pull goes away. Unless your tires were worn into your previous specs but I don't see that being the case since they're new. And ya can't cross them if you're running directionals so try front to back.

If you ask me looking at your readings, you are a victim of a "Toe And Go" situation. Meaning they didn't feel like doing kits when they obviously should have, or they were just too damn busy and figured you would pay the labor to have it done. With a typical camber kit replacing a strut mount bolt with one that's cammed, I charge a 1/2hr per corner at $85 a hour. Plus the additional cost of the alignment.

So basically. If you wanna play you have to pay.
Yea they were kinda busy at the moment. I am going to try rotating the tires to see if thats the issue. If that doesn't fix it I am going to make them realign it with the camber kit on the rear. How many washers would you all recommend for my situation. I am thinking only one. Which would put the right side to -1.1 and the left side to -.8 just by what it is now. I am no expert, I may have calculated wrong.

Here is what the ingalls instructions say.

0 washers = -1deg to +1deg increase
1 washers = -1/2deg to 1 1/2deg increase
2 washers = 0deg to +2deg increase

With the right front being out of spec... Should I order a Ingalls kit for it also? I have done alot of reading and I heard mixed things about the Prokit and front camber kits. It seems the rear is a must which I already have just not installed.
 

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What sucks is after you add the kit you will have to realign the car again since it will change your toe angles therefore making your wheel off and possibly causing irregular tire wear.

I would go 1 degree more positive in the rear from where it is. Meaning put your rear around -1.5 camber.

For your front, we run specialty kits and I would get them in your case since you will still have a pull if you don't. Just bring the front right to the same as the front left.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
JamesH said:
What sucks is after you add the kit you will have to realign the car again since it will change your toe angles therefore making your wheel off and possibly causing irregular tire wear.

I would go 1 degree more positive in the rear from where it is. Meaning put your rear around -1.5 camber.

For your front, we run specialty kits and I would get them in your case since you will still have a pull if you don't. Just bring the front right to the same as the front left.
Ok so that would be no washers correct for 1 degree positive? What specialty kit are you talking about for the front?
 

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You definately need to put the camber kit in the rear unless you want to buy new tires in about 6 months. Its pulling to the left because your passenger side camber is way more greater than your drivers side a car will always pull to the side of the less caster and greater positive camber in this case its your drivers side.
 

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petey said:
Ok so that would be no washers correct for 1 degree positive? What specialty kit are you talking about for the front?
It would be 0 washers to bring the rear more positive. Not completely sure how that works since I have a 1G.

As for the front assuming it's a Mcpherson strut setup, then it's just a cammed bolt that replaces the existing bolt where the strut mounts to the spindle. The company we use is called Specialty Products. Not sure if the avg. consumer can buy them but I don't see why not.

Try spcalignment.com and enter your vehicle info into the catalog section. It will give you all possible kits they offer to adjust any angle you have.
 

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Looking at the kits they make it seems the eclipse is a wishbone type of setup where the strut/spring mounts to the lower control arm. Meaning it leaves you with the option of either running an adjustable ball joint which is a pain in the ass, or cammed bolts that go into the upper arm mount which allow for camber/caster change, or they make a completely adjustable upper arm.
 
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