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My newly installed Autometer A/F Guage fluctuates radically every second during cruising and mild acceleration. From other posts, this appears to be normal as it is in a cycle. However, according to Mike at gadgetseller.com, the stock autometer A/F gauge is useless at full throttle! Does this mean my gauge is pretty much useless how it is? Since it jumps back and forth while staying in the rich region during idle and cruising, the gauge isn't accurately telling me anything. Even though it reads rich during WOT, Mike states that the gauge is innaccurate at WOT? How am I really running?

btw, my EGT temp has not exceeded 600 degrees Celcius at WOT. Since I am not even near 900 degrees, I am definately running rich, correct? Is there anyway to tune my A/F without an AFC?
 

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Btw, I am running the stock turbo with 3" DP, hi-flo cat, catback with Intake, upper and lower intercooler pipes, Type S BOV, and a B&M fuel regulator that was set by my local race shop.
 

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If the gauge is only accurate at WOT, than I am running pretty rich. Is there any way to run more lean without an AFC? I have a manual B&M fuel regulator on their....would restricting the flow be an option?
 

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One of the ways to lean it out is to remove sides and lower honeycombs in the mas air. Without an afc I would be a little hesitant on removing all three. DO NOT touch the big middle honeycomb. Some people with 2g cars remove the lower honeycomb,this seems to help a little. As for the a/f gauge, it is almost always useless because there is a big variation between each light. I believe this is how it works. There are 20 leds, it monitors 0-1 volt. Meaning each light represents .05. There is a guy that mods the a/f gauge to only work with WOT, I think with his mods it will read between .850 and 1.0 volts, meaning each light .0075 volts,much more accurate and it won't bounce as bad when cruising measning it is less annoying. He can put a little scratch on the housing at any volt you want, this way you know where to keep the volateg at WOT. When I find the link to the guy that does the mod I'll post it in here. Although the most useful is a digital a/f meter. But since you already have the gauge what's 30 bucks to make it more accurate and keep a healthy motor.

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Jonny
Got BOOST? Does a car good.
 

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Why are your EGT's so low? At 75mph my EGT's are at 800C and that is just crusing. When I get on it, it will creep up to ~860C. Pushing the lean mark.

ed

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'99 GST
http://www.geocities.com/mospeed9844
Akimoto Air Fitler
GReddy BOV
GReddy Intercooler Piping
GReddy Cat-Back
GReddy Profec B
GReddy Boost and EGT Gauge
Autometer Air/Fuel Meter
Front and Rear Strut Bars
 

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The autometer A/F does not read accurate for the Talon/Elcipses
This is a big problem!! When running lean you will melt some pistons..
Goto www.Dawesdevices.com
This is ideal for 2.0l dsms
The best in A/F..
kid-tsi


[This message has been edited by kid-tsi (edited October 24, 2000).]
 

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Mospeed,

I have no idea why my EGT's are so low. I have not passed 650C at WOT. Also, at WOT, my autometer A/F gauge is steady center of the rich region. I had my local race shop install the gauges and the fuel regulator, so I don't know if they turned the fuel up...or where they tapped the EGT probe. I will find out. Regardless, would it be safe to cut some fuel with the fuel regulator to lean out my mixture?

Mospeed, I have the pretty much the exact same setup as you.
 

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Yeah look where they tapped the EGT. Cause if they tapped in on the dp or the exhuast, the reading should be lower. Like the ~650C region. Can't remember, look in vfaq.com.

It should be tapped on the number 1 or 2 runner on the exhaust manifold. Easy to check for, look to see if there is a probe coming from your heat shield.



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'99 GST
http://www.geocities.com/mospeed9844
Akimoto Air Fitler
GReddy BOV
GReddy Intercooler Piping
GReddy Cat-Back
GReddy Profec B
GReddy Boost and EGT Gauge
Autometer Air/Fuel Meter
Front and Rear Strut Bars
 

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My A/F never bounces at idle, it's just blank, also it never goes fully to rich, even under WOT. And my car idles badly, is this an indication of anything?

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John Lewis

1991 Eclipse GS Turbo
 

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Mospeed,

I will find out exactly where they tapped the EGT tommorrow, but there is definately not a probe coming out of the heat shield.
 

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"I don't know if they turned the fuel up... Regardless, would it be safe to cut some fuel with the fuel regulator to lean out my mixture?"

If they turned the pressure up when they installed, you can turn it down and lean it out.
However, B&M regulator CAN NOT lower the pressure below stock pressure level.
If you can, install pressure gauge and check your pressure, it's cheaper than regulator and installation is 5 mins job.
 

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The gauge is supposed to cycle while at part throttle and cruise..the only time it's "accurate" is at WOT. When the gauge fails to cycle at all, seems sluggish or doesnt go as high as it used to at WOT usually means the 02 sensor is on it's way out.
I don't put too much faith in any of the "blinky light" A/F Gauges (autometer..cyberdyne). I currently have the Autometer Pro Comp in my car..and it was useful for helping set up the AFC a bit..but I miss my Jumptronix..and the fact that I could see a hard numerical value at WOT..rather than guessing based on the position of a LED. Anyway..those are my thoughts..

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Ed
92 Talon TSi/AWD "Blue Bomber"
90 Talon TSi/FWD "TurboMutt"
86 Dodge Colt E "For Sale $350"
 

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This is a reply to to turbo=good and a comment on kid-tsi's comment.
Turbo=good,
A car with a stock A/F setup will run rich at WOT. However, in order to extract maximum HP, you want to run as close to the stoiciometric AF ratio as possible, without getting knock and retarding your timing. Generally, more fuel than required, ie rich, leads to incomplete combustion and a decrease in heat generated during combustion.

Now Kid-tsi,
Am I supposed to believe your statement that the Dawesdevice AF ratio meter with it's 0.05V resolution is the "best in a/f" when for ex. the jumptronix goes down to 0.01V? Please....
 

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FastFWD, I'd say that you've either hooked up the gauge incorrectly, or your O2 sensor might be failing. That or your gauge isn't working. Have you noticed that you run rich? Did your MPG drop?
By the way, your idle might not be tied to your possible O2 sensor problem.
 

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FastFWD: When my 02 sensor died..it would light up the first LED barely..and sometimes not at all. This caused a CE light..which went away..when the LED illuminated again. At WOT..it never got into the rich light range...just in the Stoichiometric range on the gauge. On the Jumptronix..I noticed it..wasnt cycling as fast as it should...and WOT runs..only got me a .56 reading at best.
If the gauge worked fine before..I'd have to agree with jehu..your 02 sensor is dying. If the gauge never cycled at all at cruise or part throttle...myabe you did hook it up wrong. What kind of gauge...Cyberdyne or Autometer? As soon as I get some time..the Jumptronix goes back in the car..screw the blinky lights.

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Ed
http://www.dfwdsm.org/blufalcon
92 Talon TSi/AWD "Blue Bomber"
90 Talon TSi/FWD "TurboMutt"
86 Dodge Colt E "For Sale $350"
"Many dinosaurs have given their lives so I can get my 18 MPG in the city"
 
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