axle seals- replace or not

915 Views 6 Replies 4 Participants Last post by DRW, Nov 27, 2005

turbo8765

Discussion Starter · Nov 25, 2005

I'm going to remove my axles to change my CV boots again. Should I change the axle seals even though they are not leaking?? The seals are 14 yrs old now and have 215,000 miles on them. They're not leaking now, and I've removed/replaced axles a number of times without damaging them, so I should be able to do it again. Are they old enough that I should just replace them?

If so, is it a real PITA? I've read many posts about how hard it is to get the new seals in. Seems like they're all too big. I don't know if they're too big or it's just a really tight fit.

Also, I'm going to do all 4 axles, so... are the rear axle seals a PITA??

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MrPsi

· #2 · Nov 25, 2005

I just did my front two axle seals and my car has 90,xxx miles on it. I just did it cause I was replacing a broken axle and had everything apart, and its really not that hard. I just used a large socket to tap the seals in.

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drcustom

· #3 · Nov 25, 2005

It's not hard, and a socket works great. Also, you can put them in the freezer for a while before you install them...they will shrink and go in really easy.

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turbo8765

Discussion Starter · #4 · Nov 25, 2005

Cool, looks like I'll be doing the seals. I guess I should consider myself lucky that they survived 215000 miles and quite a few axle removals.

Maybe I will try putting them in the freezer. I did that with my ball joints and they were still a PITA.

Are the rears pretty easy too.... push them in with a socket??

thanks

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drcustom

· #5 · Nov 25, 2005

the ball joints are meant to be put in with a press, freezing them just makes it so you can get them in without one.

the seals for the rears are easy too. we froze cam seals because we had to put them on with the motor in the car (we also didn't take off the timing belt). they went in using bare hands. i've never froze the axle seals and they go in without much effort.

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turbo8765

Discussion Starter · #6 · Nov 25, 2005

I had trouble getting the ball joints in with a "press" even after freezing. I say press in quotes because it wasn't really a press. I didn't take the control arms off. I used the large C-clamp type press meant specifically for ball joints. Much more sturdy than a standard c-clamp but nothing like a real hydraulic press. I prob could've gotten them in without freezing them, but it was difficult as it was.

thanks for the info-- glad to hear the rear axle seals are also straightfoward

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DRW

· #7 · Nov 27, 2005

I like to use a thin coating of RTV on the outside of seals. It lets them slide in easily by hand, and forms a good bond when it dries.

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