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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a freshly rebuilt block with 29X miles on it so far and I thought the smoke was just the rings not set yet. But it doesnt look like it is going away.

When I start my car it doesnt smoke at all and it wont start smoking untill its warmed up and i have been driving around for a short bit. And then the car will just smoke when I am in gear and slowing down, once i get back on the throttle the smoke stops. The car does not smoke when accelerating at all. Is this rings, valves, or turbo? I checked the licp and there is no oil.
 

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Im guessing its not valves, because the smoke is blue vs. white so its burning oil.. I would start by checking the shaft play on the turbo but I've never had a rebuilt motor so maybe it could still be the rings setting in??
 

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The problem is somewhere in the head. Valve seals. guides...etc. The vacuum created on decel with the throttle closed will pull the oil past the seals if they are somewhat worn and old.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thats awesome news that it isnt my brand new block thats messed up. Should i just replace everything in the head like a basic rebuild or can I pinpoint my problem some way??
 

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You could probably just get away with valve stem seals! but if it were me, with a fresh block I would just have the head gone through so that it is in the same shape as the block...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys !! Where do you recommend I buy one of those tools that allows you to compress your springs and everything with the head on the car??
 

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97gsxfreak said:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200240982513

What do you guys thing of this tool??? Looks good and its cheap!
Looks good. Im not sure if the structure is made for the extensive abuse of a busy shop. But I guess it can withstand the daily weekend mechanic and should last a good time. I was reading the brief instructions its provides on the site but I came across this.

"Simply remove the plug and pressurize the sleeve with 100 psi air to keep the valves in place."

What do they mean by pressurizing the sleeve to 100psi to keep the valves in place? dunno:
 

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Simply remove the plug and pressurize the sleeve with 100 psi air to keep the valves in place."
Called using air pressure to hold the valves up to do the seals since you gotta take the springs off for this task.

I'd go the simpler route in holding valves in place while doing seals: take the plugs out, put each piston to its bottom travel, shove in some 1/4" nylon rope through the sparkplug hole and then bring the piston up to TDC to hold the valves in place since all that rope will squish at the top, thus holding the valves closed.

Then you can do seals.

You do air compression and anything goes bad, valves drop and it's a head removal to recover the valves. With rope, nutting aint gonna drop unless some clown wants to turn the crank while youre working on it.

-Op.712
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Any way I could do this without removing my timing belt?? I saw somewhere instructions how to change cams without messing up the timing by using a zip tie to hold the belt to the cam gear.

But I dont see how it would be possible to put rope in the cylinders and turn the crank without redoing the timing.

Any ideas?
 

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how to change cams without messing up the timing
Hate to tell you that you're gonna have to get that belt out of the way to do the cams for that's a mechanic's fact that they've faced for years - for the simple reason that when the belt comes off, you're gonna have to redo your autotensioner settings if you plan on having those cams in correct position to the crank markings.

Why of the zip ties was to hold the belt in place over the INT cam when adjusting the EXH cam to meet the belt, and the two zip ties together helps in aiding by keeping the belt in place while putting the belt throught the pulleys and then to the oil and main crank sprocket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Could I just place the auto tensioner tool in there so it doesnt move and hold the cams and gears in place while i just replace my seals??

I am not changing my cams or anything just need them out of the way to replace the seals.
 

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You will need to remove the cams so that you can get to the seals. I don't know exactly what your idea is, but it sounds like you are going to end up messing up some stuff with it. Just remove the things you need to and set the timing properly after you are done.
 
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