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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I finally got around to putting in my safc2 last night, as well as a freshly capped Eprom ECU. Only thing is when I start the car now, the factory boost gauge just pins all the way like it's in boost even at idle. I have not driven it yet, so I'm not sure how it runs. I want to install the afpr and 680 injectors I have for it before I do. The eprom is socket'd and chipped for 650 injectors.

Could that be why its seeing boost like this? Or is it likely something went wrong in the safc install? I made the mistake of wiring in the safc before putting in the new ecu, so I'm unsure as to if its the new ecu causing this.

Thanks John
 

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I don't think you can be able to build boost at idle without mashing the throttle... You must have screwed up on the wiring.... Stock boost gauge is pretty useless anyway... Get an aftermarket one....
 

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frankozz said:
I don't think you can be able to build boost at idle without mashing the throttle... You must have screwed up on the wiring.... Stock boost gauge is pretty useless anyway... Get an aftermarket one....
I agree the stock boost gauge is junk, you will be surprised once you have a after market one and see the difference
 

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What chip is in the ECU? I've seen that sometimes they use the boost gauge to indicate what RPM you've selected for the rev limiter, as a knock sum gauge, etc.
 

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Listen, keep the stock gauge where it is, and instead of that little turbo sign, write pimp, or bling so when the ladies sit in it they'll already know.
 

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williillii said:
What chip is in the ECU? I've seen that sometimes they use the boost gauge to indicate what RPM you've selected for the rev limiter, as a knock sum gauge, etc.
+1; I believe they give you the option when they burn the chip (depending on who's it is). If not, just ignore the OE boost guage. It's innacurate to begin with, and means nothing after modification one. It is simply an "estimation" of boost based on pre-determined settings and some sensor values (it assumes the vehicle hardware is not changed at all).
 

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I bet the chip is burned so that your factory boost gauge is for something else. It is very common. I would check with the company that you bought the chip from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all the replies fellers:cool:

Anyway, I would of posted back sooner if that afpr line wasn't such a PITA to get on. But I have an aftermarket autometer phantom gauge currently set up now. However, I also have a set of prosports which I'm going to swap in, just because I don't like my other autometer gauges :)tat: oil press is mechanical). But I also think the chipped got burned to use the stock boost gauge as something else. I haven't logged it yet to see what kind of knock counts I'm getting, but like I said this thing just pings and bounces alittle past the max boost setting on the stock gauge.

I'm pretty sure I wired everything in correctly for the safc, although it is a 1990 model so I started getting nervous with the tach wire but we'll see soon enough. I don't think there should be a problem though. Ive read peoples past experiences and I'm pretty sure I would of found something relating to differences between years.

Any yah, it's the factory gauge, so it's not like I really care. I just wanted some opinions in case anyone else had experienced this before. Hopefully I'll be able to get a pull in tonight before it gets to late and see how all the new parts are doing:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
***New Problem***

I have a huge leak coming from somewhere, on top of the motor. I can't tell where it's coming from, I just hear it (real noticable). I traced all the lines I disconnected/replaced, and all of them were fine. But the idle is surging real bad, 1500 back down to 1000 then back up. I swapped back in my old ECU (not chipped) and the idle surge was not as bad and it pulled through alittle higher RPM, where before with the eprom ECU it was going up to about 2k and cutting out. At idle the oil pressure was also bouncing between 40 back down to 20, where with the noneprom it was kind of staying right around 40.

My SAFC is zeroed out right now, my base fuel pressure with vacuum line connected is ~39. I have not logged it yet, nor installed the wideband.

When I was doing my injector the plastic at the end broke on a few, but they still plugged up. Could that be whats causing this? Or is this going back to trace back to the safc wiring? What could of happened when I installed the afpr/injectors that could of caused such a bad leak? Also maybe lack of tune causing the car to idle the way it is?

Time for some more vfaq:(
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
*Another update*

I forgot to mention the motor didn't sound so good. So I started pulling each wire individually with the car running to notice any differences and every idle dropped significantly except cylinder 3. I pulled the wire, no change. So I pulled the fuel injector plug off the injector, and yup, sure enough, same thing. Spark was good, so I shut off the car and tried messing around with it for alittle bit to see if anything different would happen. Well, it started spraying gas right out where the fuel rail connects with the injector. So I'll be pulling it all back apart tomorrow and try figuring out wtf happened. Like I said before, most of the black connectors are kind of broke on the wiring, should I look into resoldering in some better conditioned ones? Is this most likely my vacuum leak aswell?

Thanks John
 

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If you've got a leak around your injectors, that could most certainly be the cause. Spend a couple bucks and make yourself a leak tester. That will make it much much easier to fine leaks....
 
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