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Discussion Starter #1
http://www.capclutch.com./index.html
I bought it expecting cheap shit, slow shipping, grabiness, or any number of bad things. I'm more than surprised at what I recieved though. The price was $287 shipped to my door with an alignment tool, metal TOB (the only thing I didn't like) and the ability to hold 329 ft lbs of torque.
I've only taken it through 3rd gear on a short mile run, but I like it immensly so far. It grabs just a little bit, but not nearly as harshly as some pucked clutches. It seems to feather somewhat if I want it to, but not as well as an organic disk. I expected that though.
Pedal pressure believe it or not is less than stock, and drivetrain noise is well within reason. Reverse is a bit noisier than before, and 1st as well, but not too bad. I'm going out to test it out a bit more for a good 20 mile drive. So far it's working well.
 

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I had the performance clutch from them, it seemed to grab better than stock but the regular clutch disc flew apart after a few weekends of street racing it. While it lasted it was a good clutch. I think the 4 puck should hold pretty well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I managed to squeeze 75 miles out of it today running errands. Onle 675 miles to go. :rolleyes:
Pedal pressure increased quite a bit around 20 miles or so. Somehwere inbetween an act 2600, and stock, which is a broad range, but I don't have anything else to compare it to.
It's grabbing hard as hell now. Still more than managable, but first gear, and second gear grab hard, and cause a bit of driveline noise that wasn't there the first 20 or so miles. I feel like I'm learning to drive stick again with the jerking.
It slipped once, which has me a bit worried. I accidently let myself build boost on the way to work, around 10 or so miles into it, and it stuttered just a second or so. :( It triggered my CE light again, which is getting incredibly frieking annoying. Something else keeps triggering it, and I keep having to reset the ECU. The old owner removed the bulb, and I replaced it. Now I see why he removed it.
I purposly floored it for a few seconds coming home just now, and it didn't slip this time.
 

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I have had the 5 puck for about year and a half. It has held up really well. Is yours getting any better?
 

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craig you need a fancy signature.

seriously though i'm glad its working out well for you so far. hopefully it'll get better.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I got it up to 120 miles today. This is probably the most driving I've ever put on a car in one week outside of a road trip, or visiting my family upstate. I'm certain my stuttering is not the clutch slipping now. My RPMs don't increase, and the car is falling on it's face. Bad wires, plugs, and a boost leak in my LICP are all very probable causes. After looking at my plugs, wires, and testing for leaks last night, I think it's a combination of all 3.
So far, my only problem is one I caused by not getting all the air out of the clutch lines.
I'm satisfied so far with the clutch. It's getting more grabby as the miles stack up, but still well within reason. I drove a stripped out, modified FWD talon with a welded diff, and pretty much open exhaust, so I'm not too picky. I'd say it's a bit much for the average driver, but for someone willing to make a few comfort sacrifices, and worried about heavy pressure plates causing CW, it's a winner.
 

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that makes more sense. i put about 5 miles of break in on my 5 puck before raping the bastard a few times that night. probably did about 10+ burnouts the first night trying to get the clutch slipping right. like oyu said its a bit much for most, but for a modded fwd owner its a great clutch. i was able to slip it enough at the shootout to pull 2.33 60' times on a shitty suspension and stock rsa's.
 

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Yeah, I'm not much for taking my time, and breaking parts in. :D Unless it's an engine, turbo, or something expensive, and sensitive, I have a very hard time doing it.
I can feather it a bit more than I expected. It feathers surprisingly easily for a heavy duty clutch. That's something I was very worried about before I ordered it. I didn't want instant engagement in a modded FWD. I could break the tires loose 1'st through 2nd, spin 3rd for a second, and chirp them in 4th with just the T25 (and balding nittos). It's bad enough as it is. Instant, harsh engagement would make it much worse.
 

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I did about the same break in as Kyle. Well I didn't not even make it 5 miles I just let it have it. It has held up great!
 

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I don't think puck clutches need a break-in period. I have a 6 puck, and like you guys, I drove a few miles, then beat the piss out of it. Still working great. :)
 

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My opinion of this clutch has done a complete 180. I've replaced the flywheel entirely, the slave, master cylinder, checked for oil leaks, bled the clutch system a dozen times or more, pulled the trans 4 times, shimmed the clutch fork, and it STILL slips. It's a POS or damaged. Either way, I have to pull the trans yet again, and this time I will replace it with an ACT 2100 and a 4 puck. Don't waste your money on this clutch.
There's no reason I can find for it to slip other than the manufacturer rates it's maximum torque way higher than it can actually handle. I'm breaking no more than 250 ft lbs at best. Nowhere near the 329 it's rated for, and as soon as I hit 10 psi, it slips.
I'm so pissed I could have a brain hemorage right now. $285 on the clutch alone, $200 for flywheel machining and such, weeks without my car, and now I have to do it a 5th time. :mad:
I'll pull it, and try to get my money back. It's junk.
 

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well sorry to steer you in the wrong direction.

my friend's 16g'ed laser (same turbo in mine now) held it just fine all the way up to 19 psi. although i've simply cleared the torque limit for mine, i don't see any other reason it should slip other than shoddy craftsmanship.
 

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which kit did you use, Im assuming you got the hps kit. did that come wit sprung disks like the picture? how is it holding up so far?
 

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bottom line both of our clutches are slipping and we both got the biggest clutches available for our respective cars.

i wouldn't advise this clutch to anyone else at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The stutter ended up not being the clutch, but it does slip a lot. Just a little feathering, or one or two launches, and it turns to mush. I can't even go to Maple Grove this coming weekend for opening day because it wouldn't make more then one pass before it heats up and slips. :(
All this started with the T25. I'm afraid to even get on the t04e. I don't know if it would last at all.
My advice is to save your pennies for a 3600 or 2100 with a 6 puck. I've seen 2100 pucked setups going for $310 shipped. I paid $280something for the CAP POS. If only I waited.
 

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well mine is holding now:rolleyes:

but i'm only running like 12psi out of my new 16g. its odd yours gets worse because typically puck clutches grab better the more they warm up, i purposely slip mine in the first few gears if i intend to play around later on.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'm not hard on it by any means. Revmatch every shift, very few launches, and don't do any burnouts unless I'm warming the tires (all of 3 times so far). Get stuck at a light up a steep hill though (there's a lot of them here) and feather it a bit to get going because some dumb shit is RIGHT up my ass, and it starts slipping until I let it sit a while. I'm not sure what these pucks are made of, but they definately don't work better warmed in my case at least. It gets even worse with a couple 4000 rpm launches. My tires spin less than the clutch. :mad:
I can still drive it just fine at 17 psi with no problems until I launch or feather it. I just can't have any real fun with it from a stop.
I've been hearing a lot of good things about the southbend DXD pucked clutches, and I'm considering them as well as the traditional ACT. For some reason, I want to try things differently than everyone else. I guess that's why I didn't go ACT from the beginning.
 

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Have you tried the SPEC clutches

They have some nice clutch disks for our cars.
 

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colonelfox said:
My opinion of this clutch has done a complete 180. I've replaced the flywheel entirely, the slave, master cylinder, checked for oil leaks, bled the clutch system a dozen times or more, pulled the trans 4 times, shimmed the clutch fork, and it STILL slips. It's a POS or damaged. Either way, I have to pull the trans yet again, and this time I will replace it with an ACT 2100 and a 4 puck. Don't waste your money on this clutch.
There's no reason I can find for it to slip other than the manufacturer rates it's maximum torque way higher than it can actually handle. I'm breaking no more than 250 ft lbs at best. Nowhere near the 329 it's rated for, and as soon as I hit 10 psi, it slips.
I'm so pissed I could have a brain hemorage right now. $285 on the clutch alone, $200 for flywheel machining and such, weeks without my car, and now I have to do it a 5th time. :mad:
I'll pull it, and try to get my money back. It's junk.
I figured this would happen. I hear nothing but bad things about this CAP Clutch.

Anyone else using this kits?
 
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