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Discussion Starter #1
Alright, I'm just about ready to turn the key on my freshly rebuilt '93 TSi AWD. I'd like to know if any of you have some input for checking/adjusting things before, during and after I start it. Procedures or checklists? I've been told to pull the MPI fuse and let the engine crank over a few times to get some oil in the lines before combustion, sound decent? Any helpful anecdotes? BTW, I've got 10w40 dino oil, is that okay to use at first?

As far a engine break-in goes, here's what I've gathered from searching around for a while: USE DINO OIL, when started keep the engine idling at about 2k for sometime (enough to let the ticking in the head subside), next drive it carefully (don't push it hard but don't baby it) doing lots of 30-50-30mph runs, in 3rd without braking, in order to cover the rev range and put lots of pressure on the rings against the walls, finally change the oil after that, again after a 100 or so miles, again after 500 and again after 1000. Sustained high speeds, quick reving and of course, racing, are frowned upon for the first 500-1000miles.

Now I know everyone's got their own, "turn around 3 times, click your heels and throw motor oil over your right shoulder" technique that worked great for them and their friend, but does my method seem to generally fit people's opinion of a good break-in procedure? Is there anything I'm blatantly missing? Thanks for all your help guys!
 

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That pretty much covers it. I used straight 30W oil for my initial start-up. It smoked bad out the exhaust for like the first 20 minutes and then the smoking died out and by 30 minutes at 2000RPM smoking had stopped as the rings started seating in.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cool, what exactly is the difference between using 10w30 and 40? I've noticed most use the 30, would there be any disadvantages to using the 40 until the first oil change?
 

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I don't believe the oils will make much difference. 10w 40 is probably better to start your car with since it is a little thinner, it would make it a bit easier to get into your engine. What I've always been told is use 10w 30 during the summer and 10w 40/50 in the winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Okay, so it sounds like 30/40 isn't going to make a difference and that my procedure seems to satisfy the requirements of a good break-in...thanks again! I'll let you guys know how everything goes.
 

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Im doing the same thing, but i cranked it and it stutters fires up to like 3 or 4000 then dies. WTF? Im think I probly needs gas or something, but it's drivin me crazy. I didn't break anything did I? O by the way, I have a little oil leak from the pan because the gasket I used was shit. Will that affect it? Do i need to adjust something with the throttle cable or something, and also how would I? Please help, my girl misses her heart!
 

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When I started my new motor for the first time I just pulled the MPI fuse and cranked it until the oil pressure light went out and the gauge needle just started to move. Then I re-placed the fuse and cranked her right up first shot. I'd check your spark plug wires to be sure they are in the correct firing order. Also check your crankshaft angle sensor and make sure it's properly installed. Also look to see if you got all the fuel injector connectors on tight.
 

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Oil pan should be sealed with grey RTV. Don't use a gasket, it was designed to seal with RTV. Came from the factory that way.

As for the car missing.. suggestions to check firing order and CAS are where I'd start.
 

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I always prime the oil pump when the engine is still on the stand by spinning the oil pump drive gear with a 14mm socket attached to a drill. That gets oil through the whole system.
I don't turn it over with the MPI fuse out, the engine doesn't turn over fast enough to build real pressure from the starter.

I use valvoline 10W30 for break in. I start up the car, let it idle until it comes up to temp, then I turn it off and check torque on everything. I let it warm up again, then go out and do three WOT pulls to seat the rings and keep the cylinder walls from glazing.
After that I take it easy for 500 miles. I drive the next 500 normally (ie WOT).
For oil changes I change it after the first warm up, 100 miles, 500 miles, and after another 500 miles I switch to synthetic.
 

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Primin' Pump

Listen to nick, this is the most important item in prep for engine startup on any engine, 4 poper or V8.

A must, and way better idea than pullin' the fuse.

Good call

I am assuming that you check all belts, timing, CAS and extra prelube on all engine parts. This is as you all know also very important.
 

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Yes, Priming the pump while on the stand is the thing to do, but how long does it take you to get your motor from the stand into the car, ready to actually start up? I'm didn't mean to infer that you didn't need to prime the oil pump. Just to get fresh oil into the motor just prior to start up. If you don't have the sparkplugs in it'll crank fast enough to make a little oil pressure. Enough to turn of the oil warning light and get some fesh oil up into the motor to do your first start up on.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Yeah, it took me a couple of weeks to get it from the stand into the car and ready to start, any oil I would've used in priming the pump on the stand would've leaked back down to the pan by now. If your oil gears are packed w/ vaseline, is there really going to be that much of a problem with cranking it w/o oil for a couple seconds while the gears start sucking?
 

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That's what all that nice assembly lube is for :) I just did the MPI thing for extra peace of mind on my part. So far I've got 477 miles on it. I'll do another oil/filter change this weekend and then turn up the boost to 15-16 PSI and start running her harder :) Can't wait. It's been murder with all the rice-boys thinkin they're fast cause I'm still breaking in my motor. They all must think I'm slow as hell by now. Boy are they in for a surprise :)
 

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RemoteUzer said:
Yeah, it took me a couple of weeks to get it from the stand into the car and ready to start, any oil I would've used in priming the pump on the stand would've leaked back down to the pan by now.
If your oil filter has a good anti drain back valve the oil will stay above the filter. I use the napa gold 1381 wix filter and it has worked well for me.

If you plan it right you can get the engine in very quickly after priming. I get everything else ready before priming, so that the timing belt is the last thing to be done. If the timing is planned out correctly I can normally get the engine in the car and running that evening.

Good point on the assembly lube, that's a very good idea.
 

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RemoteUzer said:
Cool, what exactly is the difference between using 10w30 and 40? I've noticed most use the 30, would there be any disadvantages to using the 40 until the first oil change?

'40' refers to the Parafin count, Parafin gets thicker on a molecular level as it gets hotter. 10w30 starts at 10 and gets to 30 at OT. I was told to not use Parafin-heavy oils on a new/rebuilt engine, as it is good for high-mileage applications. Different brands of oils have different counts. Castrol GTX 10w-40 High Mileage formula is what I use, but then again look at the car I own. (in college)
 

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dsmaniac said:
That's what all that nice assembly lube is for :) I just did the MPI thing for extra peace of mind on my part. So far I've got 477 miles on it. I'll do another oil/filter change this weekend and then turn up the boost to 15-16 PSI and start running her harder :) Can't wait. It's been murder with all the rice-boys thinkin they're fast cause I'm still breaking in my motor. They all must think I'm slow as hell by now. Boy are they in for a surprise :)
I promised myself that I would not take the engine past 4000 RPM until I hit 1000 mi (this is after I did initial break-in). During this time I turned down a few races, but I did run this one riced out civic. The funniest thing is that I whopped his ass only revving to 4K with 10 psi. Very sad. -Ian
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Okay--update: I finished attaching what I needed to, then my friend and I pulled the the MPI fuse & the spark plugs and I got in the car and started cranking it over. After a few 10-second intervals the oil pressure starting going up and all sounded well...until my dad noticed a large puddle accumulating under my car. My friend checked the oil level--there wasn't one--and proceeded to conclude that the puddle was a lot of very clean 10w-40. Turns out, the idiots that rebuilt my head (Victory Performance ) had forgotten to plug the little oil passage hole that exits a little in front of the thermostat housing. They had also CROSS-THREADED a plug right into the oil hole for the turbo feed line which I had to retap a while ago. Well, at least my pump is primed, time to find a plug. Does anyone happen to know the size and/or thread pitch for that plug?
 
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