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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I have a 95 Mitsubishi Eclipse gst 5spd. While driving the other day I downshifted from 4th to 3rd and felt a little binding like i didnt push the clutch in far enough to shift, so i thought no big deal, shifted fine up threw the gears again (just driving normal under no boost) then i pull up to a red light, and when it turns green i try to put it in gear an woudln't you know? no gears. so i drifted forward a little bit rev'd it up and slammed it into second so i could atleast get it outta there. So, I drove it in second to where i work (down the street) and tried to put it in every gear and nothing. But, while the car is shut off it will go into any gear. First off i thought of 2 things the slave and the master cyclinder. So, I ordered the parts and put them on and bled the lines. Still wolnt go into any gear while running. I tried adjusting the rod and everything. Does anyone know where to find the accumulator on the car? The funny thing is, I drove the car home and just rev matched and slammed gears and it drove threw all the gears just fine. Before I put the new slave and master on i could put it in gear while sitting but it was really hard to do and the clutch would grind as I would pull out. Also I checked to make sure the crank pulley had no play in it. There has been no signs of crankwalk. Does anyone have any ideas? I would have to think clutch, or something to do with the clutch. But, I dont wana go rip it apart if its just something else. Any input would be great. Sorry for the rediculously long post..
 

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Check the basics first, as stated above. I would also check all of your bellhousing bolts, I had a similar issue that resulted in one of the springs in the clutch disk to come apart and wedge itself between the flywheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The slave is fuctioning properly, as is the master cyclinder. As far as i can tell at this point it is the throwout bearing or pressure plate. Is there any way possible thats easier then pulling the motor to change the clutch and all that? The easiest way I can think is to just pull the engine, change it, then put it back in.

Thanks for all of your input.
 

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s_b_c_6_3 said:
The slave is fuctioning properly, as is the master cyclinder. As far as i can tell at this point it is the throwout bearing or pressure plate. Is there any way possible thats easier then pulling the motor to change the clutch and all that? The easiest way I can think is to just pull the engine, change it, then put it back in.

Thanks for all of your input.
You can pull jut the transmission, but I've never done jus tthat. You will have to pull the transmission from the bottom.
 

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If you havent checked yet Check the bolts on the bellhousing. I had the same exact problem was at a stop light went to go and then nothing. Turn the car off and it would shift threw the gears fine, ended up bolts were loose and when the car was on the vibration would cause it to separate.
 

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+1 on the bolts on the bellhousing... I had a similar problem... I could go into 1st gear with a little difficulty, second was harder, third was a bitch and 4th and 5th wouldn't engage at all...
 

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If you can select the gears easily with the car off but as soon as you start it you can't find any gears or they grind, I think you clutch took a shit on you. It happend to me with a new Comp clutch kit. 995miles on it (Breaking in the new motor & clutch together) I went from 3rd to 4th. No 4th... then I tried 5th, No 5th, Now I'm shitting a brick because I'm on a highway and traffic is catching up to me quick. I finally made my way over and got towed. When I pulled my pp off a piece of metal and 2 springs fell out. Damn clutch took a shit on me.( Good thing CC honor their warrenties) It can also be your shift fork but you'll know as soon as you pull the trans out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Update: after pulling everything apart, the clutch fork was extremly worn where the pivot ball is and where the slave pin hits. pressure plate had deep wear marks where the throwout bearing presses. Also, the throwout bearing was shot. The clutch had a broken spring that was separated from the clutch and another spring about to pop out.

Thanks for all of your help trying to help me figure it out.
 

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+1 for throw out bearing/pressure plate.

Edit Dammit, didn't read the last post, oh well, atleast I was on the right track.
 

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I also just had something similar happen. And figured might as well continue in this thread. So after finally getting the 6 bolt running right and tuned in the spyder today it pulls like a truckk!!.

I was doing a 2nd gear pull and at the top of the gear as i was getting on the clutch i hear a pop-rattlee ratlleee. So at this point i'm thinking oh greatttt.

I was still in 2nd gear and as i pulled on the side of the road i realized i couldn't get my clutch to disengage. So i pulled it out of 2nd.

Listening to the motor it was purring as usual, so i bump started it and rev matched the car home. I don't have any light to work in now so i have to leave it for tomorrow.

I really think i broke the clutch fork, when i now try to depress the clutch pedal it is hard as a rockk. My guess is the fork broke and now is allowed to go all the way over until it hits the access hole side.

Being as we have self adjusting hydraulic clutch systems it also explains why the pedal got harder and harder towards the top. Sort of like 2g pedal pump up but x10. It could also be the tob but i doubt it. I really hope it's just the fork since i have an extra one. I'm flat broke until i start my new job next week:(.

Let me know what you guys think, i'll have the official answer tomorrow when there's light outside. Sorry for the long rant and i run a fidanza/2600 setup with oem bearing/fork.
 

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I just went outside and checked it out. My master cylinder rod is bent and so is the linkage that attaches to the pedal? The rod went sideways and blew the seals. There's fluid everwhere:(
 
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