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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in the middle of trying to fix this right now so sorry if the messages seem short. The car turns over and seems to be in time. (Woulden't it have hit the valves if it wasnt?) It turned over fast after a couple of cranks. Im pretty sure it had fuel pressure since I heard something in the back kick,(just rewired pump) but it also had low fuel on the dash... I really dont know where to start here. Any help is very appreciated!
 

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Notch on the little paddle wheel lines up with the notch near the o-ring of the CAS. That's in proper phase. Adjusting it requires loose bolts and turning it either left or right. Best to have a timing light but you can do it somewhat by "ear" to get it close. You'll never know if it's perfect until you use a timing light.

As for the no start thing. I be it's your FP rewire. If you did hit the valves it wouldn't stop the motor, it would just bend the valves. You'd be surprised how much torque the starter really has.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, I checked the CAS and it was in right an tryed it again to make sure, still nothing. I am realigning the timing right now. The metal around the cranks belt sproket was grinding into it. :eek: I think I may have been off a half tooth because of the exhaust jumping forward a little so I am realigning everything like it says in the manual. Only thing I cant figure out is where is the bolt to make sure the oil pump sprocket is in line with the balance shaft belts? :confused: It says in the manual to take this bolt out and put in a screwdriver to check for correct depth.
 

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Being half a tooth off wont keep it from starting.. But, having the timing 180 degrees out will make it not start. 180 wont bend valves either. Re-check the timing. The dowels should be pointing up at the 12 o clock position with the notches lined up on the cams.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The dowels were up in the 12 position and the lines with the white marks on the ticks were lined up in the middle in plain with the head. I am still looking for this plug to put the screwdriver in. I think I have an idea where it is now so im going to look... Be right back...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Alright. I am pretty sure the timing had nothing to do with it since the marks are lining up the same. Do you need the bracket that has one bolt on the CAS and two on the TB elbow? Does it ground or something? Also what is the big sensor that is on the back of the block? I think its the knock sensor? The wire ripped in the middle, though I dont think that would have to do with why it doesnt start, I can keep busy fixing that for now until I get more ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, here are some pics to look over... Got the timing dialed in how I think it should look. I was about a half tooth off before I believe. (I know it shoulden't matter, just saying)





Here is the bracket I am talking about from the CAS to the TB Elbow.



I am going to go try to hook up the knock sensor wire again and put the timing covers back in place...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, I just tryed cranking it again. Red, I think your on to something with the rewire. My 25 fuse was blown when I checked it and I put a 30 in. I cranked it with that, nothing, checked it and it was blown. I tryed a wire in between but it started smoking! What could be the problem here?
 

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na94eclipse said:
Well, I just tryed cranking it again. Red, I think your on to something with the rewire. My 25 fuse was blown when I checked it and I put a 30 in. I cranked it with that, nothing, checked it and it was blown. I tryed a wire in between but it started smoking! What could be the problem here?
You have one of the wires wrong and have an open circuit. I'd go back and re-check ALL your wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I tryed connecting 87 and 86 like it said in the VFAQS as incase the fuse blows or something is wrong with power/ground. Now all that is happening is what sounds like a bad connection type of noise coming from the intake/TB? Still no fuel in the line, I have it disconnected and pointed up so I can see if it starts feeding fuel. Not to mention when I returned out to try the new idea it smells like fried wiring inside of the car. WTF I am about ready to give up on this, now I can see why people part their cars... :(
 

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na94eclipse said:
I tryed connecting 87 and 86 like it said in the VFAQS as incase the fuse blows or something is wrong with power/ground. Now all that is happening is what sounds like a bad connection type of noise coming from the intake/TB? Still no fuel in the line, I have it disconnected and pointed up so I can see if it starts feeding fuel. Not to mention when I returned out to try the new idea it smells like fried wiring inside of the car. WTF I am about ready to give up on this, now I can see why people part their cars... :(
Is there anyone in the NY area who can help this noob out?;)

Did you check to see if you toasted any of the fuel pump wires. I thought you said one wire fried. They really stink and the smell hangs around, it could be that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Red1991TSI said:
Is there anyone in the NY area who can help this noob out?;)

Did you check to see if you toasted any of the fuel pump wires. I thought you said one wire fried. They really stink and the smell hangs around, it could be that?
Well, I found its the wiring in the back. More specifically I think its a wiring connection somewhere on the pump itself. For the time being I am going to try to put the factory wires back in how the 4 go, just to see if I can get fuel... Smoke in the hatch told me it was back there BTW. ;)
 
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