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Discussion Starter #1
This started happening yesterday morning. The clutch engagement point was abnormally low to the floor, and the shifter was pretty stubborn getting into gear. After driving the car for 15 mins like this, it eventually got back to normal.

The car remained fine in the afternoon, but after starting it after it was in the cold night weather for a while, the same problem came up. This time it was even harder to shift, i had to force the shifter into gear with a lot of effort. When putting the car in reverse it would grind, and do the same getting back into gear, as if the clutch wasnt fully depressed.

The clutch tends to stick a bit halfway out, and fully release a bit slower, with the friction point quite low.

I was going to check the clutch slave and master cylinders for fluid today. Also maybe look into greasing the axle of the pedal assembly...I'm not sure if this would relate to my shifter problem though. Any other suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Well now the clutch pedal just sticks to the floor and its next to impossible to get the shifter in gear....
 

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I was going to check the clutch slave and master cylinders for fluid today. Also maybe look into greasing the axle of the pedal assembly...I'm not sure if this would relate to my shifter problem though. Any other suggestions?
It is fully related!
If the clutch is not fully traveling it will do all this. Check what you said before you have to get a flatbed and be late for work.

If everything is perfect, then maybe you can talk about CW but not many people like that word here.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the input. I dont think it's CW because it happened pretty all of a sudden, and I have had no other symptoms like revs dropping and clutch probs when turning.

I'm not too knowledgeable when it comes to transmissions. How do I go about checking the forementioned things out (slave&master cyls, pedal assembly), where under the hood, etc to be looking; i.e. what can I do myself without many tools as I dont have my tool set here with me and I cant take the car to a mechanic till monday..........
 

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There is a new thread on this subject every week but...

First check the fluid level
Then check for a wet clutch pedal shaft inside the car
The slave is right by the frame, pull the boot back slightly and look for fluid.
90% of the time it is the slave.

My went while I was sitting at a red light, one more reason to keep the clutch out while stopped. The pressure blew out the slave and the car stalled, the first time I had a breakdown.

I could put the car in first and start in gear but there is to many hills by my house to try and start the car every time I wanted to move.

The dealer wanted $120 and I would have had to have another flatbed take it there for $100.

The slave is $40 and you need a long 12mm socket (2 bolts)on a 3/8 drive and a 10mm wrench for the bleeder and other fittings(might need one more?). Also some new brake fluid dot 3-4.
Its easy just bleed it good.

Look into it before you are walking:(
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Dumb-mode on:

Where do I check the fluid level? Is the slave boot near the clutch line?
 

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follow clutch pedal out to engine, to the right of brake fluid but smaller.
Just put straight up and twist, there are no locking tabs.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
95tsiawdgst said:
follow clutch pedal out to engine, to the right of brake fluid but smaller.
Just put straight up and twist, there are no locking tabs.
Yeah I checked, and i definately have no fluid in there. Do i just get whatever generic clutch fluid is available at the auto parts store? After i refill it do i just start the car and pump the clutch for a while or is it a bit more complicated? (bleeding lines, etc) ??
 

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You are not done by any means, that stuff doesn't just evaporate.
Do like I said in the above post and check the shaft and slave boot for leaks. It's one or the other and most likely the slave.

Like I said above, brake fliud dot 3 or 4.
Get it fixed before you have to walk or damage the gears by shifting when the clutch is not fully disengauged.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well i'll pour some brake fluid in there and check the slave. the bleeding valve is right next to the boot for the slave right? The slave should be near the clutch line but further back?
 

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The bleeder (10mm) is on the slave itself which is right under the center support of the car near the front.

The fluid is probably black, even if you bleed it you might only have a couple days til it just explodes and its done.
 

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I can't seem to take off my clutch master cylinder cap. Do you just pull straight up while twisting? There are two stoppers on mine that stops me from twisting. Do I just continue twisting the cap so the rectangular piece on the cap goes over the stoppers?
 

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D33A said:
I can't seem to take off my clutch master cylinder cap. Do you just pull straight up while twisting? There are two stoppers on mine that stops me from twisting. Do I just continue twisting the cap so the rectangular piece on the cap goes over the stoppers?
No twisting, just lift up and rock back and forth...it will come off.
It is not locked on with anything.
 
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