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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, whenever I turn on my lights, the dash and headlights blink erratically, as in they get dim, then bright, back and forth. One time, it would go away when I decelerated, then when I started accelerating, it would blink again. I have a new duralast alternator I installed 3k miles back, and I had autozone charge the battery as well. Would this be a battery problem becuase I've had this battery since I bought the car 2 years ago.
 

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I've had it blink because of my turn signals or heater was on. Also my dimmer switch was messed up so it kept blinking or it doesn't even work it at all
 

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I'd take that alternator back for a replacement. What is happening is that the brushes inside aren't doing their thing too well making contact with the rotor, thus why the blinking.

When it's making irratic contact, the voltage from the ALT being different than the battery whereas the ALT is putting out close to 14.3v and the battery is doing it's 12v thing.

Thus, the blinking is different voltages being used from the same source.

On a side breath: are the connections to the ALT, which connects behind tight per chance, esp the 12v in from the battery?

Good luck on this one.
 

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Well that's a new explanation I've seen. My first impression is that your alternator is taking a crap on you. Today's modern alternators have the voltage regulator built in. That is most likely your problem!
 

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Sorry Red - but that's what my ALT in my other DSM did before it crapped out - lights a-blinking away before no charge.

Took it to my friend's shop and we took it apart. Sure enough: the brushes were shot so was the com that had to be turned before new brushes were put back in.

Just got a rebuilt intead..

OP.712
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, the alternator got tested out of the car and in the car at different rpm's, and it passed both times. We tested it about 4 times, so I'm guessing its not the alternator, maybe the battery?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just to add more info, the lights only blink when above 1500rpm's or so. Whenever I come to a stop and put it in nuetral, it will act normal, then when I start to move again, it starts blinking.
 

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I would check all of the plug-in fuses in the fuse blocks, for the blades on the fuses can make weak contact with its socket.

I found that out with my turn signals one time: the fuse that controlled the signals, its socket had a weak leg to not make connection with the fuse at times....and if you don't think that was fun finding the problem...

op712
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
op712 said:
I would check all of the plug-in fuses in the fuse blocks, for the blades on the fuses can make weak contact with its socket.

I found that out with my turn signals one time: the fuse that controlled the signals, its socket had a weak leg to not make connection with the fuse at times....and if you don't think that was fun finding the problem...

op712
Haha, I can only imagine, I'll check out the fuses tomorrow and maybe tighten my belt a little because its been squeaking at startup, thanks for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, I cleaned all the ground cable contacts. Tightened down the battery cables, tightened my alt. belt, re-checked the alt. connections and checked all the fuses. Everything seems to be good but the lights are still flickering. Any idea on how to check the fuse legs besides just taking them out and looking at them?
 

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the fuse sockets are a crimped variety that pinches on the legs of the fuses. If one crimp isn't tight enough (like what happened to me), this will cause this issue (course, this is a very tough guess since not being there to do actual tests of sorts..), this will cause some of the irratic connections in any attached device.

lf nothing else, it could be the stalk control having fits with the main wire connection, or the switch itself.
 

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op712 said:
the fuse sockets are a crimped variety that pinches on the legs of the fuses. If one crimp isn't tight enough (like what happened to me), this will cause this issue (course, this is a very tough guess since not being there to do actual tests of sorts..), this will cause some of the irratic connections in any attached device.

lf nothing else, it could be the stalk control having fits with the main wire connection, or the switch itself.
The fuse block is exactly the problem my gf's 2g gsx had when we got it. The dash would work, then it wouldn't but if you shook the fuse box it would come back.

Further troubleshooting revealed that somebody had "tapped" power off the fuse block by taking a wire, stripping it long and shoving it in with a fuse leg. That forced the socket to expand and when the wire was removed to do it right it wouldn't make good contact. Temp fix was to slightly bend a leg of the fuse to put more pressure on the socket.
 

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That forced the socket to expand
..my fix, since I have small precision hand tools, was to take my smallest needlenose pliers and actually rebend that contact clip in the socket back to tight to hold on to the tang on the fuse....

Amazing how home grown, saturday afternoon garage techs can find the craziest places to tap into 12vdc without thinking of doing it the obvious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well for anyone that has the same problem, it was the voltage regulator, I replaced the alternator today and everything is great. Autozone's tester will not tell you if the voltage regulator is bad or not because my alternator passed and they wouldn't replace it under warranty. So I cracked open the alternator and started banging things up and cutting stuff, then took it back and it failed, so they gave me a new one, lol.
 
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