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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So im a little new to the dsm world. picked up my first dsm ( 95 eagle talon tsi) a few months ago with a spun rod for a $1000. Looking to build a decent set up that is great for daily driving but has pretty good power also. So im wondering if this sounds like a good set up to you guys.


6 bolt swap from karking.

Ross pistons & eagle rods

New eagle crank

Acl/clevite bearings

Hks 264/264 cams

Brian crower springs/retainers

Evo 3 16g IM/turbo/o2 housing

Apexi N1 downpipe and catback with no cat

Greddy intercooler pipes with supra side mount

Greddy rs bov recirculated K&N filter

Act 2100 clutch kit

Tokico HP struts with eibach pro-kit

Evo MR wheels wrapped with bf goodrich tires

Slotted & cross drilled rotors with EBC green stuff pads

Thats all off the top of my head. Taking my time to do it. Trying to go with a stock apearance for a daily driver but have enough power to play with. I dont want nothing outrageous. Discuss and give me your opinion if this would be decent. Like i said im new to dsm's. Ive been browsing this site quite often reading things tryin to learn stuff about them. Thanks for looking.
 

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That's alot of smart info for being new to dsms. Know of a couple KarKing motors holding strong. I think the Eagle crank is a bit too much for your daily. Atleast get a 2600 for the ACT & good idea starting with suspension mods. Do you actually have the cash for all of this?
 

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List looks like a great start...you've been doing some homework! :tree:

My opinion would lean more towards a front mount intercooler instead of the Supra sidemount. ETS offers both a street and a street/strip front mount kit that lets you keep the stock crash beam for daily driving. Once money becomes available I'm planning to get one for my 1g. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
dsmoron- i dont have the cash right now, its currently in the shop getting a full stock engine rebuild. just doing that to drive it as a daily driver to save up for the mods. im not planning on racing it or anything with this motor, just to get me along till i get the one i wanna build. will do the suspension and other mods befor the other motor tho.

shadow fix- yeah i was looking into a front mount, just havent found one that's grabbed my attention. i dont want some huge fmic. would like to keep it mostly stock and clean from the outside other than lowerd and wheels.

yeah i havent completely figured out what i would like to do with the fuel part yet, i know a wally fuel pump, bigger injectors, and most likely dsm link.
just havent figured it out yet, ive got a while yet to go.
 

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injekt said:
dsmoron- i dont have the cash right now, its currently in the shop getting a full stock engine rebuild. just doing that to drive it as a daily driver to save up for the mods. im not planning on racing it or anything with this motor, just to get me along till i get the one i wanna build.
That seems kind of a waste of time to me:confused:

As long as you put the "proper" components in the stock rebuild, you'll be able to put down plenty of power to have a decent dd. You will be fine running an Evo3 on a stock shortblock.
Is it being rebuilt completely stock? If it's not too late, you should go with some 1g big rods and 2g pistons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
goalieman24 said:
That seems kind of a waste of time to me:confused:

As long as you put the "proper" components in the stock rebuild, you'll be able to put down plenty of power to have a decent dd. You will be fine running an Evo3 on a stock shortblock.
Is it being rebuilt completely stock? If it's not too late, you should go with some 1g big rods and 2g pistons.

yeah its gona be completely stock. tried looking for some 1g rods on craigs list and around here where i live, not many people are driving dsm's. if i am able to find some i would have them put in.
 

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Get it running first and then start modding it. You listed a Good start But look in to maxing out the stock T25 or a stock 1G 14b. Fuel and engine management are important to are cars. Look into getting a datalogger and S-afc for tuning.
 

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yes and why would he rebuild a motor that cant handle near the power of a 6-bolt....i also thing eagle crank is a bit much for a stock rebuild. Arent they like 700$...also i would go ahead and look into dsm link since your going to use it for your next motor.
 

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edward777 said:
yes and why would he rebuild a motor that cant handle near the power of a 6-bolt....i also thing eagle crank is a bit much for a stock rebuild. Arent they like 700$...also i would go ahead and look into dsm link since your going to use it for your next motor.
It's all in how you build the motor. 6-bolts can be crank-walked, too, so don't go off spouting useless info. 7-bolts are way more common and can be built to hold just as much power as a 6.

OP, I suggest you go with the 2600 rather than the 2100 because you may in the future want to make more power so just grab that now. That way you don't have to pay for two cluctches instead of one. Also, the link, though user-friendly, is not the only tuning device out there. Grab yourself a wideband, a logger and go from there. But otherwise, you're looking pretty good. Way to search, man. :tree:
 

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Speaking of crankwalk, there is a website, I'm sure everyone here has atleast heard of it. This guy seems to know his stuff, and says hes figured out how to make his engine with out the potential problem of crankwalk. Check it out, I'm not too sure of how far your rebuild has gone. But, you can sometimes find this company on ebay with their engines for sale. And usually on ebay they come with an option of either cams, pulley, etc. Anyway, I'm rambling, good luck to you, Overbore.com
Shawn
 

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I will add my 2 cents


*You dont need anything more than the stock crankshaft period.

*You dont need to upgrade your rods or pistons for just a 16g.
If anything just upgrade the pistons if you are going with a 6bolt motor.
The 1g pistons are a bit weaker than the 2g pistons, plus a little on the low side as far as compression... Some wiseco or ross 8.5:1 pistons would do nice. A fresh stock 6bolt should be able to consistently handle 400-450awhp reliably without any forged internals as long as the tune is decent.

*While your in the motor upgrade the headgasket and get ARPs.

* Get the 2600 pressure plate over the 2100.
If you push your 16g hard enough, with enough 2step launches you will wear that 2100 out quickly. If you do get a 2100pp, in order to hold some real torque, you will have to compensate in getting a much tougher disk which will feel even less streetable than just getting a stronger pressure plate and a normal street disk.

*Once you get everything together and on the road, get yourself a boost gauge, a wideband o2, and a logger. Then work on your fuel system first ( walbro 255hp, AFPR, and bigger injectors. ) Before you put the injectors in get something to tune with ( I.E. dsmlink, or a chipped ecu etc.)
Please dont waste your time on a safc.

*Then proceed to the FMIC and you will be on your way to a great street setup, and the "possibility" of making a little over 300awhp on pump gas daily.
 

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Get something better then 16g.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
myAWDgst said:
Get something better then 16g.


Why would i do that? im never going to the track or anything. Im just wanting a good daily driver with enough power to play with. Nothing major. Either thinking of a fp big t-28 or the evo 16g either or, with the fp race manifold and the evo 3 o2 housing. I'd like something with fast spool like the t-28 and it's a direct bolt on for my 7 bolt and look's sleeper which is a plus and in all reality, a evo 3 isnt gona give THAT much more power.
 
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