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PREVENT TO FLAMMING. I have searched on DSMTalk and other forums and have found out tons bout a NT conversion. The questions below I have either not found the answer on or would like a little more clarification. Also this is going to be the first time tearing a block open but not taking a motor out (I have rebuilt my own tranny) so I am not mechanically incompetent.

Ok I recently came across a 6Bolt 4G63 NT. The motor was sitting on the ground for who knows how long with the throttle body and exhaust manifold off so the motor is going to be a full rebuild. This motor is going to go into my 95GSX (have the 6bolt awaiting for the dreaded CW) so I already have the exhaust manifold, turbo, injectors, ECU, knock sensor, MAS, pistons and motor mounts.

I know I will need rods (fly like an eagle), oil pan (for the oil return line), Cams and CAS. But what else will I need and is a NT block the same as a Turbo block? I was told that the NTs don't have "oil squirters" like s turbo has to squirt the bottom of the pistons to help in cooling. . . . this correct? Is the intake manifold the same on 1G T and NT? And last but not least is the internals in the head the same (like valves)?
 

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Ive had a lot of the same questions and heard the same thing about the oil squirters on the underside of the pistons. I do know a few people have converted nt to turbo without too much trouble but as to putting nt engine in turbo car?? Your better off buying a turbo cyclone engine or one built up allready if you can afford it.
 

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pUtInExIm said:

I know I will need rods (fly like an eagle), oil pan (for the oil return line), Cams and CAS. But what else will I need and is a NT block the same as a Turbo block? I was told that the NTs don't have "oil squirters" like s turbo has to squirt the bottom of the pistons to help in cooling. . . . this correct? Is the intake manifold the same on 1G T and NT? And last but not least is the internals in the head the same (like valves)?
This one is more easy than you think...

1. You don't need Eagle rods since the 1G NT rods are the same as the turbo ones. And since you got a 6-bolt block, you got yourself the big rods. Drop in a set of 2G turbo pistons and you're set.

2. You need a 1G Turbo throttle body and a Turbo intake manifold. You may also use the NT intake manifold and just tap an extra nipple for the BOV vaccum line.

3. You need a 6 bolt turbo oil pan.

4. Forget about the oil squirters. You don't need them.

5. The internals in the head are the same, except for the intake cam (the exhasut one is the same for all 1G cars). Get one from a 1G turbo 5-speed and you're done.
 

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T-Body

To add onto that throttle body part, a turbo one is only necessary if you are using the exact vacuum lines. Though the turbo one has the little elbow for the UIC pipe, it isn't necessary. The n/t throttle body is even bigger, I believe at around 55-60mm, while the turbo one being smaller. Just rebuild your existing throttle body, or a n/t one you pick up and custom fit it to your UIC piping.
 

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James pretty much nailed it on the head. I will say that the NT throttle body is much larger, 64mm to 58mm I BELIEVE. I kown that it is a larger.... you will have to find someway to fabricate an elbow for it and you will have to find a tap for the BOV, but besides that you could use the NT intake mani/ t/b
 

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What about the Kncok Sensor, to the best of my knowledge the 4g63 n/t does not have one. You'll need to have a machine shop tap the block of the knock sensor
 

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I believe there should be provisions for the knock sensor....but if not it shouldn't be difficult for a machine shop to provide one.

The oil squirters are there for a reason.
Now can you build an engine without it, sure.

The oil squirters help keep your cast pistons cooler. This is a very good thing. Because of the higher combustion temps (turbo), the power stroke is _very_ hard on pistons.

For an everyday car, you will want squirters.

People will say they have been running for (insert time) without squirters.

Mitsubishi put them in for a reason, at a cost to them.

I will not build any kind of serious turbo engine without them.

Rogue
 

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Do you happen to know how much it would cost to have oil squirters put in?

What are your thoughts of having ceramic coated pistons instead of oil squirters? Good enough for daily driving and some road racing?
 

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Oil squirters hould cost no more than 200 installed at you machine shop. I personally think you can get away without installing them.
 

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How much are you going to be boosting on this? If your on a budget I wouldn't even swap the pistons. I'm currently running 9:1 NT piston in my turbo block @ 15lbs for 10K+ and it is fine. A buddy of mine is running a complete 1g NT engine in his 2g GST on stock boost and it's still holding up.
 

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Ceramic coatings can wear off. I wouldn't waste my money. Forged pistons are the best answere, they can be over 100 degrees cooler then cast ones. If money is an issue (when isn't it?), get regular turbo pistons, I would actually go with the lower CR 1gen pistons instead of 95+ ones. This will save you machining cost, and you should be able to make more power with more boost.

I know MKJC211 has been doing well with his NT pistons, but with their much smaller (thus weaker) ring landing, a little pre-detonation would destroy them. I would prefer to have a little more strength, and forgiveness.



Rogue
 
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