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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Did your distributor call it quits. Or does it stop working when it gets too hot. Chances are its the internal power transistor that went bad. Before the only options were to buy a new one for $200+ or get a junkyard one and hope it lasts. Well now there is a third option. It turns out its very easy (and cheap) to bypass the internal power transistor in order to run an external 4 pin GM HEI type power transistor. I picked mine up from autozone part number dr100 for duralast($29), or dr100vc valuecraft ($22).

How to wire it in.


Here is where i mounted mine.


Works perfectly. Its also very easy to wire in an external coil. All you do is cut off the end from the 2pin coil harness. The red wire goes to the positive terminal on the coil, and the white/black wire goes to the negative terminal on the coil. Hardest part will be modifying the distributor cap to accept an external coil. In a week or 2 i'll be adding a coil so i'll update this with instructions on how to do the cap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So finally got around to ordering my external coil. After spending a few hours searching through all the coils on autozones website, i think i found one that is perfect. Its H.E.I, as well as plug and play! Yup thats right, the stock coil harness plugs right into this one So zero rewiring is needed. Autozone part number C1603 $27.99 with lifetime warranty.



Still have to mount it and modify a distributor cap. I'll do that in the next few days and post up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Cap modifing

Hack the cap up until you get this tip exposed. Its going to have a aluminum rod thats pressed into it. Once you cut through on the underside, remove the rod from the bottom and discard.


I then used a extra cap and broke one of the towers off.


I connected the two using a spade connector. Trimmed the "electrode" end of the broken tower to fit inside the spade connector nice and tight.


Ohmed it out real fast, got zero resistance... so time to seal it up. Used quick steel.


Made it my favorite color


Coil is mounted on the side of the upper intake.
 

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Clever solution. A few things to keep in mind with the HEI 4 pin module:

The bottom of it is a heatsink, same as the PTU on 2.0 DSMs. So you want to mount it to a good bracket, and usually people will put some thermal paste between the module and distributor housing it goes in.

The harness that normally supplies the power to them in the OEM application, has a small capacitor across the 12V power. It couldn't hurt to add these in to protect the module.

Most of the modules are actually grounded through the housing, via the mounting screws. The "W" you are using is normally the sensor ground, a small signal. It shouldn't need to be tied to body ground. Sounds like it is working just fine with yours, maybe because your bracket works OK as the ground?
 

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1991, Mitsubishi Eclipse GS, 4G37
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Gentlemen, I purchased a 4g37.91 in January, order where you eat, I ordered parts such as a lid and rotor, but based on what I'm seeing here, I'm going to apply this more modern and reliable system.
 
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