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Ok ever since I got my DSM the AC has never worked. I never bothered to ask about it because I wasn't very concerned with it at the time, but now I will be moving to Texas where it gets quite warm and this car is my DD. So when I push the AC button in the interior the yellow and green light comes on, the engine RPMs drop but the air isn't cold. I think he might have mentioned something leaking but would it be the condensor or compressor and how much am I looking at to get it fixed, what might the work be like fixing it?
 

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You'll have to find the leak first. I would get that checked, as it could be a cheaper hose instead of something more expensive. I think you can buy die kits to check it yourself, but that could be coolant only. You may have to have a shop check.
I've seen on this forum that if your refrigerant leaks out from a hole the condenser (I think) gets ruined. You'll want to plan on replacing that with whatever you replace that has the hole. The hoses aren't that difficult to replace. You should use the search button and read some threads on this, I've seen at least two in the past month.
It could be something else I'm not thinking of, which is another reason you should check for leaks.
Either way, it shouldn't be horrible to fix.
 

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The rpm's are not supposed to drop, but that has to do with the IAC probably. This doesn't have anything to do with the leak, but it's not supposed to happen. It could be the compressor, mine had a leak and the light worked, but only warm air came out. I'm not sure about the condensor. If you take it to an ac place your probably looking at hundreds of dollars to get it fixed, if your lucky.
 

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NY 95 TSI AWD said:
It could be the compressor, mine had a leak and the light worked, but only warm air came out.
I am guessing there is a difference between 2g and 1g, but I have my A/C GONE and the light still works. He's 1g, so his will still work no matter what.

I was suggesting taking it to a shop to get the problem diagnosed. If your newer to cars and mechanics, it will be the best, most sure way to fix the problem the right way the first time. Most places don't charge an arm and a leg for diagnostics. I don't remember ever paying more than $60 for diagnostics on something I couldn't figure out.....that is til I found all you DSM guru's....:p
 

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I'm not sure about the set up, but the compressors are different in 1g's and 2g's . It guess the light just always works, ac compressor or not!
 

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It may be attached to a fuse, but I'll guarantee its got no connection to anything related to a/c. It works like a click-pen...its just bigger. I think thats what the light is based off. Just the action of clicking the pen...
 

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Taking the car to a shop to get diagnosed sounds like a good idea. The expansion valve may also be the problem.
 

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bento said:
When you turn the a/c switch on, does the compressor engage at all?
^^That's definitely the first thing I'd check.

If it is doesn't kick on, I'd test the pressure switches. There should be a couple of wires running to the line somewhere. If you unscrew the switch from the lines it'll look like a valve stem (like on your tire). If you use a paper clip to jump the connection (connecting the two prongs) and the compressor kicks on (you have to have the engine and a/c running for this to work), then the switch is probably bad.

Then I'd look at seeing if there really was a leak by buying a "a/c recharge kit" from Autozone or wherever (Walmart has them too). I'd get something cheap that has a bottle of refrigerant with dye in it (it will be marked and almost all have the dye in them) along with a hose (I like the kind with a cheapo pressure gauge) and a U/V light (usually like a little pen).

Turn on the car with the a/c on so that the compressor engages and acts as a pump to draw the refrigerant through the system. There should be a port that you can connect the can of refrigerant to. Connect it, shake the can and pull the trigger. I'd probably dump a small can in there (the system should only hold 2-3 cans - I forget the exact total).

Then take the U/V light, point it along the lines and follow them all around the engine, looking closing at the joints and around the compressor and condenser. If there is a leak in the engine compartment it should be really obvious with bright green crap sprayed all over the place. If not, there could be a leak in the evaporator (on the other side of the firewall).

The next step would be to check for leaks in the evaporator, but you'd have to remove some parts of the dash to see it (I've never done this on my Eclipse, so someone else could probably help there).

If there aren't any leaks, I'd probably go get it purged out and then find the expansion valve as noted earlier. To do that you have to disconnect the line where the thickness changes at a joint. If you get that out and the mesh is clogged with metal shavings, your compressor probably got busted and sprayed metal filings down the line.

If you do have to open up the system, you have to replace the receiver/dryer and it is suggested to also replace the expansion valve (since it's cheap and easy to do).

Hope that helps.
 

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If the compressor clutch is not engaging with AC on, you'll want to know if there is any refrigerant in the system. You will have to find out if the car still uses R-12, or has been retrofitted to use R-134A. Easiest way to tell is by looking at the service ports. If they have external threads, it's still R-12. If the fittings are the quick-connect style, it's R-134A. Next, I would rent a manifold guage set from a parts store (if you can). Connect the guages and see what your pressures are. with the car off, a PSI reading close to ambient air temperature will indicate a likely sufficient charge (eg; 75 degrees F. should show + - 75 PSI on a full system at rest). If pressures read good, start the car, turn on the AC, and read pressures again. I would reccomend doing this, and let us know what your readings are. The first thing I always do when diagnosing AC problems is check for proper charge.
 

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blue91 said:
If the compressor clutch is not engaging with AC on, you'll want to know if there is any refrigerant in the system. You will have to find out if the car still uses R-12, or has been retrofitted to use R-134A. Easiest way to tell is by looking at the service ports. If they have external threads, it's still R-12. If the fittings are the quick-connect style, it's R-134A. Next, I would rent a manifold guage set from a parts store (if you can). Connect the guages and see what your pressures are. with the car off, a PSI reading close to ambient air temperature will indicate a likely sufficient charge (eg; 75 degrees F. should show + - 75 PSI on a full system at rest). If pressures read good, start the car, turn on the AC, and read pressures again. I would reccomend doing this, and let us know what your readings are. The first thing I always do when diagnosing AC problems is check for proper charge.
Good point, I'm used to assuming (or knowing) that it's all gone. But knowing whether or not you have refrigerant is a good place to start.
 

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Also, if you can get us guage readings, note the ambient air temperature at that time. That's an important factor when reading guage pressures and determining if they're within specs.
 
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