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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all.....I realize this section of the website is not recommended for "newbies" but I am unable to find any information on this subject. If this is not the appropriate place to post this, feel free to delete/lock the thread. I have a 1997 Spyder GS-T with a few mods (intake, downpipe, hi-flow cat, mbc, 1g BOV, UPIC). My area just initiated the OBD-II emissions. My car did not pass...the reading said that the vehicle was "not ready for testing" (none of the monitors were set). I tried over and over to complete the drive cycles with no luck. The dealership told me that they could hook my ECU up to a MUT-II and set the ECU to "increased sensitivity". They then drove the car to set the monitors and it passed emissions ($120 later). Finally...down to the question. After driving the car for about 15min I rescanned the ECU and was saw that none of the monitors were set?!?!?! Does anyone know why they would do this? I would like to get the problem corrected so I don't have to pay $120 everytime I need an emissions test. I am told once they are set they should stay set unless you reset the ECU. I was also told that because they are not set that the ECU will stay in open loop causing a rich fuel mixture all of the time? The dealership has no idea why it keeps clearing the monitors....HELP. Thanks in advance and sorry for the long post!
 

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Sounds like this guy blew smog up your a$$.

Nothing in your setup would cause you to fail inspection unless you had a bad O2 sensor or bad cat.

I'm not sure what these monitors and drive cycles are that you speak of. And I'm not familiar with any way of increasing the sensitivity of pollution controls in our cars.

What did you use to 'rescan' the ecu?

Perhaps, that MUT-II dealer device may have some fancy features built into it that let them cheat a little??

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't think he was blowing "smog". I rescanned with a snap-on OBD-II scanner. Apparently when the ECU is reset it needs to go through particular "drive cycles" before all of the sensors will read "ready for testing". There is a particular drive cycle associated with each monitor. For example the O2 might be....drive between 30 & 35mph for 5 min, decelrate without using the brake to 10mph, accelerate to 45mph at 50% throttle...etc, etc. Thus, when you clear a code by resetting the ECU, sometimes it takes a little driving time for the code to come back. I have heard that some ECU's have the problem of resetting the monitors everytime the car is turned off. I have read about this problem in other forums, but noone can determine the exact cause. Mitsubishi has issued an ECM recall on all of the '96, but have done nothing for the 95, 97,98, or 99. I was just wondering if anyone had any thoughts or have went through this previously.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah.....TSB was the list of drive cycles for the dealership. I have never reset the ECU nor have I ever had a dead battery in the 2 1/2 years I have owned the car. The only thing the dealership was able to tell me about the problem is that they are getting a lot of cars in with the same problem as mine, but they didn't know what was wrong. As usual, the dealership saves the day :mad:
 

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I bet there are a ton of regular turbo 97 ecu's available for sale from from everybody that swapped out for DSMLink. It may be easier to just replace the ecu and be done with it.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have considered that, but it seems that there is no way to know if the new/used ECU will have the same problem. According to Satan they are "up in arms" as to why this happens to car #300 off the line and not to #301.
 

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Buy it from somebody in NJ. We've always had emissions testing. Check out the NJ forum:
http://njdsm.asocialdisease.com/
(mods - I hope it's OK to post this link)

We're a pretty honest bunch of guys (and a couple ladies). Just post your request/dilemma in the For Sale section and ask if they ever had difficulties passing inspection when they were mostly stock.

Bill
 

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Is your car acting odd in any ways? My car had a high idle for the longest time (1200RPMs) and I didn't through any CELs until I got it fixed, then I threw, like, 5 or 6.
 

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if the dealership has gone to the point of telling YOU that they have been having problems with this issue, then there is probably a logic problem with the newer ecu's. Chrysler, specifically, has had problems with ecu logic (how the computer communicates with itself and/or varius sensors/actuators) in the past
having said that, readiness monitors normally have sticter operating parameters than what it takes to determine a/f ratio, timing, inj pulse, etc. you said that you used a snapon brick to scan the codes. do you also have access to an oscilloscope? i would check all of the sensors to ensure that they are in their proper range, and also check the wiring involved. if there is no problem in either of these areas, then it is probably in the ecu itself.
If you dont have any more luck with the dealership, you could try to contact the factory rep. closest to you
 

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This is a pretty common problem in pre-2000 mitsubishi's, normally its the catalyst efficiency monitor that doesn't run.Its not the sensors or anything other than the ECU(in most cases at least).The only fix I know of, is to take it to the dealer before each emissions test(they can force the IM readiness monitors to run).Its just another one of those problems mitsu doesn't want to fix.BTW once they are set, they will NOT stay set and your car shouldn't stay in open loop because of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So....the fact that these monitors will not set, will not effect the performance of my car??? If this is the case, I guess there is no reason for me to try to repair the problem??
 

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Hey man, I had the same problem during my last smog check too. If you look in the shop manual they have the drive cycles there too (i.e. drive at X speed for Y seconds and decerate for Z seconds, etc.).

Also, I don't know if you have DSMLink or not, but if you do make sure the tests are enabled otherwise you sure as hell won't pass.
 

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I know I'm reviving an old thread but this problem will become worse as more states convert to OBD-II smog testing.

I have a '97 GST Spyder that resets the monitors to not-ready after the ignition is turned off. After two years and paying the Mitsubishi dealers more money than I care to think about so they can legally "cheat" the OBD-II smog test I finally have an acceptable resolution this problem. From now on I will get a readiness monitor waiver from the NV Emission Control Lab.

I got my registration renewal in the mail and made a smog test appointment with a new Mitsubishi dealer (the one I had been going to went out of business). I knew my Eclipse wouldn't pass smog because none of the non-continuous readiness monitors were set to completed. They quoted me $239.00 to drive the car with the MUT-II hooked up to set the monitors and perform a smog test. I showed them last years invoice for exactly half that amount. Too bad, they said that's what it costs this year. (Could it be Satan?) I paid it.

I went to NV-DMV on-line to register and while there I decided to check the emissions pages to see if there were any updates for the Eclipse. It is listed as a vehicle having difficulty setting some of the readiness monitors and to call the Emissions Control Lab. I called and spoke to a technician who was very interested in my story. He wanted to check my car so I made an appointment to bring it down. The next morning I showed him my records and smog test results from two Mitsu dealers. I showed him documents from NHTSA, AAA, and NV Emissions Lab listing my car and the readiness monitor problem. I also had the Mitsubishi TSB that describes the procedure required to set the monitors. I've never been able to satisfy the drive cycle requirements.

They hooked up their equipment and verified that the monitors I had just paid $$$ to have set were back to the not-ready state. They agreed that I had proved my point and from now on I no longer have to take my car to a dealer for smog testing. All I need to do is get a failing OBD-II test result and bring it to the Emission Control Lab. They'll hand me a waiver letter to submit with my registration. From now on I pay the same amount to pass smog as everyone else. This has been a long and expensive ordeal but persistence and good record keeping paid off. I hope those of you in other states with OBD-II smog testing can use this information to get a waiver if you need it too.
 

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This is a five minute fix (most likely a blown fuse or broken wire).

Hint:

There are 3 +12v lines to the ECU, only one of which is NOT connected to the ignition switch (so it's always on).

Guess which wire isn't putting +12 to the ecu.

Hal
 

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Good call, backup power to the ECU (pin #80) should certainly be checked if it's losing settings. In my case this is not the problem. I wish it was that simple. There are threads on many DSM forums indicating my ECU problem is not unique. Some people in OBD-II smog states with this ECU problem have found a solution by replacing the ECU.

Jon
 

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Drive cycles what works for me dont use anything so roll your windows down no lights no stereo nada before you start it. I would use blinkers only if absolutely needed. Long quite road is the best. At least 10 miles ish long an straight as possible. First thing in the am start your car let it idle 5 mins then drive normally to drive area. Then shut your car down for a min then start it up. Accelerate to about 40 an 2500 rpms for about 5 miles then Accelerate to 65 The 2500 rpms again no cruise control or other power accessories at all .keep the car at a steady speed threw out the drive with as little variation as possible. For the last leg while the car is in gear let off the gas until the engine stumbles then pull over .then turn the car around an repeat a second time check your monitors. If not set do again the next day. Usually sets the first time but you may have to repeat this also new battery 100% charged if it goes low it resets. If needed hook up to a battery trickle charger to keep the battery fresh an 100%. It might take a few attempts an my car is a manual but never fails. Also if it resets after each time you may need to find a shop who will let it run an hook it up . Not that I have had much luck there but my car holds its codes easily.
 
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