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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been trying to search for how to remove all the Emmisions equipment. I want to remove everything as I don't have to go through emmisions anymore. If anyone has a link or a diagram showing what to remove, what to block off, and what to re route, that would be very helpful.

And also, I am planning on removing my cruise control as it does not work anymore and I never used it. All I need is a non-cruise throttle cable? Right? How difficult is it?

And the final plan to clean the engine bay up, I would like to move the battery to the trunk. Now I know the correct way would be to buy a kit and use everything in there (Distribution block, etc). But I was wondering if I could just get a box, and run a longer wire to the starter, and place the ground in the back of the trunk somewhere? Do I really need a block or anything? Keep in mind that the car doesn't have to be NHRA certified or anything, as I will never be running it in any events.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. So I am assuming that the little red dots are where you have to plug up? The picture is small and I'm having a hard time reading it.

Does removing the solenoids off the firewall always throw a CEL? I would like to remove them to clean everything up and get more access to everything around that area.
 

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http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200928

That is a link to my thread on EGR removal though I am 1G. The post by Green Bread about half way through the page shows how to correctly run an MBC. (You need to use the turbo nipple, not the way Taboo has it) And yes, the red dots are block offs. Let me know if you have anymore questions.
 

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Oh, and on a 2G I believe that you need to leave them hooked up in order to not throw a CEL. On a 1G you can just remove the unused ones. :p
 

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MyBoostedGST said:
I

). But I was wondering if I could just get a box, and run a longer wire to the starter, and place the ground in the back of the trunk somewhere? Do I really need a block or anything? Thanks in advance.
No. Basically you ground the battery in the rear and run one 2 gauge power wire up front. Once up there you use a distribution block where you hook up the power wires that were on the battery (fuse box and starter). You also need a fuse somewhere, or a circuit breaker around 8inches from the battery. Do it right, or don't do it at all.. I recently did mine, and let me tell you, it's NOT worth it. It also doesn't clean up the bay that much. A distrubution block is like 6$ on ebay so do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Burnett03 said:
No. Basically you ground the battery in the rear and run one 2 gauge power wire up front. Once up there you use a distribution block where you hook up the power wires that were on the battery (fuse box and starter). You also need a fuse somewhere, or a circuit breaker around 8inches from the battery. Do it right, or don't do it at all.. I recently did mine, and let me tell you, it's NOT worth it. It also doesn't clean up the bay that much. A distrubution block is like 6$ on ebay so do it right.
But if there isn't a fuse/breaker on the stock wires, why do you have to have one when you relocate it? That's the only thing I don't get. And you say that it isn;t even worth it?
 

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na94eclipse said:
Oh, and on a 2G I believe that you need to leave them hooked up in order to not throw a CEL. On a 1G you can just remove the unused ones. :p

Are you sure or does anyone know for sure? You are refering to the connector remaining plugged in right, but the vacuum lines can be removed and plugged? I've seen many 2g's with them reomoved completely but I myself can't see how it wouldn't throw a CEL.

What about the cruise control I would also like to know how that box on the firewall can be deleted?
 

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I recently took off the Cruise control system on my '95 Talon and all I had to get new was the Non Cruise cable. It's actually a pretty easy job to do. It will remave the "box" attatched to the firewall, and the piece mounted the the top/side of the strut tower. I noticed a big difference in throttle response. NOT more power but just crisper response.

As far as the emissions are concerned I think you NEED the solenoids themselves plugged into the harnesses to not have a CEL. The vacuum lines can be removed and capped accordingly. IF you wanna clean up the engine bay that much you could just run (cut/splice) more wire between the ECU side of the harness and and the harness itself to give enough room to tuck the solenoids away somewhere or trace them back and cut/splice the harnesses in the cabin area to get them out of the engine bay. Just a couple suggestions for ya....:cool:
 

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Archametes said:
I recently took off the Cruise control system on my '95 Talon and all I had to get new was the Non Cruise cable. It's actually a pretty easy job to do. It will remave the "box" attatched to the firewall, and the piece mounted the the top/side of the strut tower. I noticed a big difference in throttle response. NOT more power but just crisper response.
+1 The cruise control removal is easy as pie, I did it to my 2G last summer. Throttle response is much "crisper" as stated above. Yes you can remove the cruise control actuator from the body with no ill effects.
 

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For the emissions after you remove the unwanted parts leave the electrical connectors pluged into the sensors and you will not get a CEL, I personally have done this on my 2g.

Be careful with relocating your battery, because once I did that I had to put an on off kill switch on the outside of my car for saftey to race at the track. Not cool on a d.d., luckly its hidden by the license plate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
lazylaser said:
For the emissions after you remove the unwanted parts leave the electrical connectors pluged into the sensors and you will not get a CEL, I personally have done this on my 2g.

Be careful with relocating your battery, because once I did that I had to put an on off kill switch on the outside of my car for saftey to race at the track. Not cool on a d.d., luckly its hidden by the license plate.
You say that you had to put a switch outside because of the track. Is that the only reason why? If I'm not planning on running it at the track, would you still suggest not doing it? (I'm only thinking about doing it because my bay is so cluttered and would like to clean it up a bit)

I did remove all my emmisions lines. The car didn't seem to change at all in my opinion though. I did leave them plugged in though and everything is fine.
 

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But if there isn't a fuse/breaker on the stock wires, why do you have to have one when you relocate it? That's the only thing I don't get. And you say that it isn;t even worth it?
Sorry for rezzing this thread but this bugged me. I feel it needs to be answered.

You need a fuse or CB a few inches from battery after relocating because if the wire should lose insolation for whatever reason it would touch the chassie and complete a circuit. That would cause the battery to heat up and probably explode. That's bad if your unsure.
 
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