Engine blah after 4000 rpm

Could it be my BISS screw , my car idles fine, but then sometimes kills at a stop light.

You're driving it with a ceased turbo?!?

Unfortanatly yes , let me ask what would be the harm? Its all I have to drive right now, I am not gonna drive my 1981 Buick Regal , which has a small block chevy in it, in a snowy cold winter of Minnesota, id kill myself

What it seems like to me is im almost hurting the engine after 3800 rpm, it seems it dont want to go any higher.

It seems to me alot of people are having or had this simar problem.

I took a look at the fuel filter and it looks like the original fuel filter after 133000 miles . Im gonna change that tommorow. Any other suggestions? I have new sparks plugs (gapped right) new wires also.

You're driving a car w/ a turbo not getting any oil, and you wonder why the car won't run after 4k....

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Case closed

Look pal, I know the turbo is seized, I dont need to know that. Even in neutral the engine seems to be lagging after 3800 rpm, the turbo has nothing to do with it, its just not making boost! The engine should still rev to redline without seeming to be lagging.

Since when do you need a turbo for an engine to run freely past 3800 rpm?

blackrosenova said:

Look pal, I know the turbo is seized, I dont need to know that. Even in neutral the engine seems to be lagging after 3800 rpm, the turbo has nothing to do with it, its just not making boost! The engine should still rev to redline without seeming to be lagging.

Since when do you need a turbo for an engine to run freely past 3800 rpm?

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I disagree...I can understand revving if you can't boost, but when oil is seized, I would not expect your car to be at it's full potential

Sorry buddy but I never said it was going to be at full potential, and I guarantee it would have the same problem even if there is boost, many people seem to have this similar problem.

you are trying to suck air through a siezed turbo (restriction) and intercooler (restriction) to an engine with low compression with a computer that was programmed to have boost by 3000 rpm. your engine has cams that were designed for boost. Your car weighs over 3000 pounds without you in it and is all wheel drive.

you are complaining about it not pulling past 4000 rpm... either fix it, live with it untill you can afford to fix it, or sell it to someone who deserves it, and buy a honda. foreward this message to the other people who seem to have this problem also.



I am not trying to be an asshole, I am trying to save your car.

blackrosenova said:

Unfortanatly yes , let me ask what would be the harm? Its all I have to drive right now, I am not gonna drive my 1981 Buick Regal , which has a small block chevy in it, in a snowy cold winter of Minnesota, id kill myself

Click to expand...

If you honestly have to ask "what would be the harm", in driving a car that has a seized turbo on it. Then wondering why it doesnt run right, I mean no dis-respect but you may want to buy another regal, or just a non-turbo car to get through the winter..

wtf. You are trying to tell the experts that the seized turbo is not the problem. Do you know that even at idle the turbo is spinning. Whick allows air to easily go thru the intake piping and turbo. When you stop that wheel it is like covering your air filter and only allowing enough ait about the size of a half dollar to go thri. Do you think that is enough air for that motor to breeth after 4k rpm's. It is because of your turbo. You ask for help, these guys tell you exactly what your problem is, and you act like a jack ass. We have been dealing with these cars for years, and you just get one and know everything about it. I agree with the other guy, you need to sell that thing and buy a honda. That is what you diserve

Look everbody who affiliated in this thread, im sorry if I pissed/upset anyone. I bought this car on thanksgiving, and the next day the car is wobbling at 50-60 mph like crazy (pretty sure its a wheel bearing). Anybody would be crabby in my situation when the car didnt wobble when I test drove it.

The reason I didnt think the turbo was at fault past 4000 is because I used to own a 91 Mx6 Gt (2.2 Sohc Turbo) , and the turbo siezed as well in that, and it redlined perfectly to 6000 rpm, although quite slow.

I will obviously replace the turbo as planned and go from there.

Glad you finally got your head on straight...

We give advice to help, you either take it or leave it; don't complain that we're wrong unless you can prove it w/ some solid evidence...If for some odd reason that seized turbo was not the only reason your car was not revving , your ecu would be next in line for a look-down...It would be noticeably damaged if it there is a problem there

UNLESS you know the motor is already bad I wouldn't risk damaging it to get through winter. Put some used snow tires and chains on the old car if you have to and come spring get the DSM straight and you'll be glad you did once you see how good these cars are when they're running right.

it might just need a tune up...you should think about that...take it to a shop and get an opinion

You are going to get use to the shop owning a talon....I have a 91 tsi and I have had it for a year and a half now and already the alternator,turbo,overdrive,ecu,tensorpulley,and a bad oil leak....the pulley had me lose me cylinder head........slowly but surly you get used to it.
If you want reliability though theres always honda......

k.c.

Well in good news my steering wheel shaking was not my wheel bearings, but it happens to be the previous owner put nice rims on the car, but didnt think they needed balancing . I had put on snow tires and no more wobbly steering. In the process of doing the front tires I noticed the cv shaft boots are torn so I need to replace the cv shafts as soon as possible. I could just replace the boots but since im at it I just as well do it all right and replace the cv shafts.

By the way wheere is the test connector to check ecu codes?

Well i finally broke down and bought a turbocharger from a junkyard. It looked good , no shaft play, so i bought it.

Well after putting it on it boosted just fine to 10 pounds! But guess what........


My engine is still blah past 4000 rpm, sounds like a lawnmower after 4000, and if it were my guess, it soumds like its runnin lean, I do need to get a datalogger but in the meantime what can I do or check out?

run a compresion test and see how it looks your engine could possibly just be shot..thats usually the best way to start problem solving check the compression make sure your good there..then do a vacuum leak test..do all the tests first and see what you get from that..

but just one question...why would you buy a turboed car that had the oil feed to the turbo blocked off?