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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
Recently I got into the habit of engine breaking when I'm stopping before the stoplight. I have an AT, so when I'm about to stop, I turn off OD(overdrive), so it shifts to 3rd, then I move it to 2nd, and then I hit the break to stop completely. Or somtimes, on freeway, the traffic slows down, I would just tun OD off so it downshifts to 3rd, and the car would slow down. Is it bad for the engine or the tranny? It's fun doing it, but I don't know if I causing any harm to my baby. anyone else do that too?

-'96 GSX

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Free mods, K&N Air intake , HRC UIC with 1G BOV, Auto Meter 0-35psi ultra lite boost gauge, Japanese version Greddy turbo timer.
 

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I dont really know too much about trannies, but I can asure you it is not good to do. Its the same as downshifting in a manual, which isnt neceassry (i cant spell that word :)) unless your racing. I would say stop doing it, because auto trannies are freakin expensive.

-Dave
-91 GST AT
 

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whats so bad about down shifting a manual?
i do it all the time.

Don't know much about autos, but personally i don't think its too big a deal. If you live in mountains your supposed to do that so your brakes don't overheat on desents.
 

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What gsxalex said...
I downshift all the time to save my brakes for when I really might need them. I live up in the mountains, and I do it in my '99 dodge caravan sport(lol) too, for the same reason. It has an auto trans.
It may make your trans. run hotter. Just put on a bigger trans. fluid cooler if you are worried. IMHO - I would do this anyway!

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Rocky Mountain
'91 Talon Tsi AWD - modified
Live, Learn, Love and Bleed DSM...
 

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Like I said, I dont know too much about trannies, but I do know that downshifting puts unneeded stress on the transmission. And replacing the brakes is a lot cheaper than replacing the tranny. But I guess if you live in mountains you want your brakes to always be working.

-Dave

[This message has been edited by turbolover2 (edited October 13, 2000).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the replies. I agree with all of you. It saves the break, but it puts more strain on the tranny, but these DSM tranny also take over 700 HP at the track by the big turbos. I just wanted a second opinion. (got 3rd and 4th. hehe)

-'96 GSX

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Free mods, K&N Air intake , HRC UIC with 1G BOV, Auto Meter 0-35psi ultra lite boost gauge, Japanese version Greddy turbo timer.
 

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96 GSX,
I really wouldn't recommend this on an AT. It's fine on a manual but on an AT, you're just adding a lot of extra wear on your end clutch plates. Trust me, brakes are MUCH MUCH cheaper than any work you'll need to have done on your tranny. Remember guys, this is an AT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Jehu,
Thanks for the reply, but can you explain a little more? Not that I don't believe you, but I want to know! I'm new at this, so I want to learn as much as I can. You said this is ok with MT, so with MT it'll just wear the clutch more? (easy to replace) But with AT it'll be harder (and more expensive) to replace the end clutch plates? (what is that anyways?) End clutch plates gets worn on normal daily driving too right?

-'96 GSX

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Free mods, K&N Air intake , HRC UIC with 1G BOV, Auto Meter 0-35psi ultra lite boost gauge, Japanese version Greddy turbo timer.

[This message has been edited by '96 GSX (edited October 13, 2000).]
 

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Hey 96 GSX,
If you want to learn more about ATs, definately give www.at.dsm.org a visit, and take a look at their onelist mailing list.
Having said that, the end clutch plates don't get abnormally worn with normal use unless if you have
a.) a lot more power
b.) dirty fluid
c.) overheated fluid
d.) something else I don't know about.
In a nut shell, with an MT, if you match revs, you won't even wear the clutch out. The gear box is a purely mechanical system and the force applied during engine braking really doesn't contribute to much more wear on the gears and synchros, unless ofcourse if you don't match revs properly. In an AT system however, there are a lot more components involved. You have a torque converter in place of an MT clutch, and a TCU channeling AT fluid down different passages to actuate different gears etc. Bottom line is, the AT is not designed for a manual downshift to force engine braking. The manual gear selections are designed for different conditions, eg while descending a hill, being stuck in mud/snow etc. Remember that when they suggest you go to 2 or turn off overdrive while descending, it's meant for a long descent and you STAY in that gear. It's definately not meant for you to change gears at every stop. You will be subjecting your AT to much more wear than you need to by manually forcing downshifts etc.
Again, for all you want to know about ATs, and a few other interesting side discussions, one of which is definately not DSM related but very interesting to most males :), go to www.at.dsm.org
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi Jehu,
Thanks for the explaination. I've been to the AT DSM page before, but it's so new, it doesn't have that much info on the page. I will definitely stop myself from doing more manual downshifting. (it'll be hard to resist, it's so much fun!) I didn't do it too often, only when I see hard cornering opportunities. Since the AT do not downshift after corner by itself where power is needed the most.
BTW, I don't know if you saw my post over at "Help! Tech" forum titled "Tranny problem? crankwalk?" Since you seem to know a lot about AT. Any comment on that? TIA

-'96 GSX

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Free mods, K&N Air intake , HRC UIC with 1G BOV, Auto Meter 0-35psi ultra lite boost gauge, Japanese version Greddy turbo timer.
 
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