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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I have a friend who does not condone in older engine flushing. Now I have a 7 bolt that I would like to flush, I want to make sure that my engine is clean both block and cylinder head. Now I was thinking of taking my car to this place that does engine flushes, now is it worth it or should I just do the fuel injector/combustion cleaner or should I go all out and clean my whole engine ??

Thanks
 

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Sea foam... It worked like a champ for me... I threw up the coolest smoke screen there is and the car ran much smoother... The car is running the best when I actually tore the motor down and cleansed it with new everything...
 

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I'd change the oil. Put in 4 quarts of oil and 1 quart of atf (automatic transmission fluid). Atf is one of the best detergents to clean engine internals. Drive the car around for about a week. Do not drive it hard though. JUst drive it normal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
bento said:
I'd change the oil. Put in 4 quarts of oil and 1 quart of atf (automatic transmission fluid). Atf is one of the best detergents to clean engine internals. Drive the car around for about a week. Do not drive it hard though. JUst drive it normal.

Ok is synthetic ATF ok, because i have like 20 bottles of that, and as for that method is it fairly safe ? And will it clean out the engine decently thanks for the help.

:)
 

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YOU DO NOT WANT TO DRIVE WITH ATF IN THE ENGINE! There was a topic about using ATF for lifter tick. You can run the engine but drain and replace with new oil before you put it under a load.(aka drive it) I think it was mentioned the best idea is to drain immedeitly(spl?) after putting it in and running the engine for a little bit... In other words do not let it sit in the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
na94eclipse said:
YOU DO NOT WANT TO DRIVE WITH ATF IN THE ENGINE! There was a topic about using ATF for lifter tick. You can run the engine but drain and replace with new oil before you put it under a load.(aka drive it) I think it was mentioned the best idea is to drain immedeitly(spl?) after putting it in and running the engine for a little bit... In other words do not let it sit in the engine.
Ok so what do I do 4 quarts of oil and 1 synth ATF and run for 10-20 mins then drop and clean oilpan and change oil/ filter...sound good?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok well last question, how about just dropping and cleaning the oil pan, the reason why i want to do this so bad is because it seems like everytime i change my oil it turns black within 2 weeks and I use Mobil 1 full synthetic...What should i do ?
 

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Used to be an old trick in engine flush was right before change, esp if the level was a quart plus low, is to top off the level with kerosene and let it idle for 10 min then drain.

it seems like everytime i change my oil it turns black within 2 weeks and I use Mobil 1 full synthetic...What should i do ?
Sounds like you gotta tired motor there - valve seals are all but hardened up, good amount of blowby past tired oil rings, et.al...... One test is - take a paper towel and use this paper towl to wipe off the dipstick with. The color of the oil almost tells you right off how your motor is, esp when it's time for an oil change: If the color is on the dark brownish side, everything inside is still rather tight and little wear is shown, but if the color starts to become, or has become diesel coal black, things are getting pretty worn and letting the carbon from the exhaust really mix in with the oil past tired rings.

Another factor is massively rich fuel mixture with all of the soot contaminating the oil real quick. If your plugs are showing almost total black, you got a mixture problem, or plugs are too cold to burn the mixture well enough.

Do a search on plug heat ranges for stock and modded motors. BPR6ES for standard and lighty modded motors while the colder BPR7ES are for you seriously modded motors.

Op.712
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I mean I have excellent compression, I feel no problems when it comes to the engine but I mean is it true what you said about maybe the engine is tired?? if it is wouldnt it be laggy and what not, but anyway what can I do to correct this oh BTW I think im running a bit rich, the car does need a tune, as for the spark plugs im using NGK BPR7ES so yea. Let me know thanks.
 

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You can have excellent compression thus not noticing any difference in your performance, but your oil rings could be very tired and letting oil go by them and up in the combustion area. True, check out all of what you can do the best to gradually remedy your small problem here.

Good luck-
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
op712 said:
You can have excellent compression thus not noticing any difference in your performance, but your oil rings could be very tired and letting oil go by them and up in the combustion area. True, check out all of what you can do the best to gradually remedy your small problem here.

Good luck-
Ok good not that scared anymore lol, but yea thats the thing that has me confused because if indeed if i had such a problem wouldn't I be burning oil ? and if that were the case wouldnt I always be running lower on oil but thats not the case see I have a feeling that the oilpan/oilpan filter is dirty, because the guy before me used like valvoline or something and I use mobil 1 synthetic so yea, What ill do is drain the oil, drop the pan, clean it and clean that filter inside then chage the oil with fresh 10w 30 mobil 1 and change the oil filter, sound good ??

PS: I really dont want to do that ATF thing because Im a little scared of messing something up and then having to pay alot to fix it...

Let me know thanks.
 

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I can understand the ATF flush trick giving you the spooks esp. if you've never done it before, but as time goes on when you work on cars and motors, you'll find out that the old mechanic tricks do aid in a lot of things - like a friend of mine would flush his motor (an old V-8), by draining out the crankcase, add one quart of oil, one quart of ATF and one quart of kerosene and run the motor on extreme low idle for 5 minutes. Never hurt the motor, but did he ever flush out junk that one couldn't believe.

(Back on Topic) how many miles is on that motor? Going back to your original topic of oil getting black within two weeks of a change - doing the pan drop and cleaning really wouldn't cure this problem outside of checking your air/fuel ratios, right heat range in spark plugs (the BPR6ES) and tuneups to burn the fuel more completely whereas you're prob running rich and this alone will cause oil to blacken up things real quick since you say that your oil consumption is at the norm, thus we can eliminate oil rings and valve guides being worn.

When you do the pan drain (if you keep the pan on), let it drain as long as you can let it - do the best do drain every drop out of there before putting the new oil in.

Good luck anywhos. Op.712
 
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