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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yes I did search for a while but I didnt find anything close to what Im looking for. Anyway, could I use the exhaust piping that they sell at Kragen or Auto Zone and use it as an FMIC pipings? Only thing is that they are not mandreled bent. Is anyone using/running these kind of pipings? Are there any problems on running them?

Feel free to post suggestions or comments.
 

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I have a friend that used exhaust piping for the intercooler on a 300zx. Not sure if it will cause problems, but its been done.
 

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It will work fine, i'd rather use mandrel bent piping though.. Make sure to paint it because chances are it is mild steel and will rust.
 

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I would not do it, that is ghetto fab. Buy some real piping, be it mild steel or aluminum and do it right. You will be adding a ton of restriction on the airflow going that cheap and it will make you suffer. Several vendors here offer piping at a good price, check them out.

If you dont have the cash to do it right, dont do it at all. Save up and do it correctly. Hell, buy a Ebay kit, thats better than doing it the way you want to do it.
 

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It will rust from the inside.
 

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I did it on a friends car for a short period of time. No problems with it. Main reason we did it is so that he can buy the aluninum piping and just copy the existing piping on there and have it welded, then it's a direct swap.
But instead he got a deal on a better intercooler.
 

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I wouldn't do it long term at all. Moisture will get in and rust the inside of it like kurt said and then you risk flakings of rust in the long run being blown into the motor.
 

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I used autozone piping for mine. It's all stainless steel and does not rust at all. I even used autozone piping for my exhaust I made and it does not rust. I've had the exhaust and IC piping on for almost a year now and no rust inside or outside on either.. Here's a pic.
 

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What the hell kind of autozone do you have by you? We don't have piping like that, we have crap.
 

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It can be used, but like others said, it CAN rust from the inside out. I blew the seams on my intercooler, and it was my only car. To keep the car moving, I had a chunk of exhaust bent to "mock" my intercooler. Yeah, yeah, I know, the pipe was nothing like an intercooler, but it kept boost/vacuum where it was suppose to be. I drove with the car setup like that for a day and a half til the intercooler was fixed, and had no problem. I also kept my foot off the gas, as I didn't feel like boosting and blowing hot air into the motor, let alone have countless other things go wrong.

Don't do it as a permanent fix unless you can be sure you won't have problems. If you are unsure, or if you can't get thin-wall stainless, don't even try. Park the car until you have the cash to do it right.

On a side note, I'm sure we've all heard people complain about these cars being unreliable. Give that some thought. Most of the time its because people DON'T "do it right" and have problems because of it. Always do things the correct way, and you won't have many problems.

...another thing...stainless isn't "stain-proof". It can still rust, corrode, or have issues. That isn't guaranteed to be perfect for the life of the metal piece...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I know about the restrictions but will this be able to handle about 300hp? The plan for my car is 300 to 350hp. THis will be on for about a year or so until I save up for a short route kit.
 

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Try CXRacing.com. They have great prices. On their site they have a universal kit, or you can check their ebay store and get the Eclipse Talon kit like I did. I got all piping, couplers, and tbolts for $110 shipped.

I also bought their huge core. ^^Flexnuts has the same setup and it was working fine for him.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ill give that a try. The buyers for my 20g and ecu flaked on me so im short in cash right now and im just trying to save as much as I can.
 

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tsi2psi said:
I know about the restrictions but will this be able to handle about 300hp? The plan for my car is 300 to 350hp. THis will be on for about a year or so until I save up for a short route kit.
If your plans are 300-350 HP buy quality products. I would not suggest doing shit half ass on a stock car. If you dont have the money to buy decent IC piping I dont see how you have the money to buy the injectors, fuel pump, AFPR, Wideband, fuel management, turbo, exhaust, intake and all the maintenance that comes with it.
 

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The_EE said:
If your plans are 300-350 HP buy quality products. I would not suggest doing shit half ass on a stock car. If you dont have the money to buy decent IC piping I dont see how you have the money to buy the injectors, fuel pump, AFPR, Wideband, fuel management, turbo, exhaust, intake and all the maintenance that comes with it.
Nicely put. As stated above I would go with an ebay kit if money is an issue. You'll be glad you did in the end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The fuel injectors, fuel pump, and exhaust came with the 1g I bought years ago with a crank walk. The 20g turbo I have, I got that from a trade for a 1g eprom ecu. The intake is $40 ebay, and the SAFCII, I got from a trade also. I dont know about the AFPR and wideband your talking about. I dont have those yet. I sell parts I have and use that money to buy some other parts for my car.
 

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AFPR stands for adujstable fuel pressure regulator. That is basically used to control over run on your fuel rail. Your aftermarket fuel pump will push to much fuel for the injectors to use, so the afpr will help move more fuel back to the tank.

The wideband is a guage/probe that tells you the running condition of the motor, lean or rich.

If you want good power, and you don't want to have your shit broke all the time, listen to these guys. Don't cheap out, or you won't have a running car very long. Simple as that, no if's ands, or butts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
93_GSX said:
AFPR stands for adujstable fuel pressure regulator. That is basically used to control over run on your fuel rail. Your aftermarket fuel pump will push to much fuel for the injectors to use, so the afpr will help move more fuel back to the tank.

The wideband is a guage/probe that tells you the running condition of the motor, lean or rich.
I know what they are. I said I didnt have them yet. i dont know where he got that from cause its not in my mod list.

If you want good power, and you don't want to have your shit broke all the time, listen to these guys. Don't cheap out, or you won't have a running car very long. Simple as that, no if's ands, or butts.
You can help me get better pipings if you buy my parts in the classified.:p
 

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On a side note, I'm sure we've all heard people complain about these cars being unreliable. Give that some thought. Most of the time its because people DON'T "do it right" and have problems because of it. Always do things the correct way, and you won't have many problems.
LISTEN TO THIS MAN!! Look dude, no offense and everything, but don't ghetto fab your car. When I purchased my car somebody had cheaped out and used exhaust piping for IC piping. It of course rusted and cracked, falling off on the interstate. That is not the proper way to go about upgrading a car. Take pride in your car and your work, and don't ghetto fab things, especially on a car with piping readily available. Thats my two cents.
 

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tsi2psi said:
I know what they are. I said I didnt have them yet. i dont know where he got that from cause its not in my mod list.



You can help me get better pipings if you buy my parts in the classified.:p
If you dont have the money to do it right, dont do it at all, its simple as that ok.

Buy a Ebay kit at the very least, will come with piping, clamps, couplers, everything you need.
 
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