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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
About a year ago I did the fuel pump rewire job (run bigger gauge wire close to the fuel pump, etc.). Well, something happened that I didn't care too much for. As I was inspecting the relay, I noticed that the wire going from the relay to the fuel pump was kinda fried at the relay (relay is fine).

I figured that since I was using the stock wire from the relay to the pump, that is may have been too much for that wire causing it to fry like it did. What I want to do is run the big gauge wire all the way from the battery to the relay, then to the pump. That also means going through the fuel pump assembly top cover.

Now, what I want to know is what I can use to isolate that wire from grounding out (or whatever) to the top cover. It also has to form a seal so no gas fumes, or gas, comes out through the top of the cover.

Please, if you have any ideas or solutions, or have actually done this, I would like to hear from you. Thanks.

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Craig H
92 Laser AWD
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>What I want to do is run the big gauge wire all the way from the battery to the relay, then to the pump. That also means going through the fuel pump assembly top cover.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>I am suprised at the wire getting fried at the relay, I have never heard of that. Gotta say though, I would try to figure something out to deal with that OTHER than using heavy gauge through the assemply cover. Maybe use some heat shrink on it??

My experience was... after doing the rewire from the battery to the relay and noticing the positive difference in O2's and sound of the pump, I decided to have it finished off and take the heavy gauge right to the pump. What a mistake. Tank pressure first caused gas to come out of the hole where the wire fed in. After getting that sealed after a few tries with silicone and JB Weld, another problem developed. Gas started going up the wire and out of the tank, inside the wire jacket. It was so bad, the gas followed the wire, into the relay, and filled the relay with gas. Several different wires were tried, other tricks too, including inserting plugs in the wire to break any siphon and sealing the plugs to the jacket with silicone, still, the gas made its way out.

I finally bailed out and went back to the stock wire from the relay to the pump. Yes some people pull this one off successfully, but I don't think the potential gain in voltage is worth the risk and hassle.

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Ted - 95 GSX
[email protected] MPH

[This message has been edited by WhoaTed (edited September 06, 2000).]
 

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Ted you are correct and this is why it shouldn't be doe like that

Now let me see if I got this right you have 10 AWG from the batt to the relay ( 30Amp fuse with in 3inchs past and 6 inches off the Batt right =-) then to a 30 Amp relay. out of the relay with the ORIGINAL wire?? If so the prob is the wire is to long for the amperage that it's running.

If this is true replace the wire off the relay to the sending unit and splice the wire just before it goes in the sending unit. there really is no good way to get in other then what Mitsu does with a connector and epoxy
 

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Bad connectoin will cause the wire to heat up right at the connection piont, clean your connections and let me know if it helped at all :)
Mike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
All of the connection were clean, no signs of corrision, or anything for that matter. The only problem was the male spade connector to the relay and about an inch of the wire itself was toast (but the car still ran, just not as good as it should've been), the rest of the wire to the pump was fine.

What I did as a temporary fix was run 10 gauge wire from the relay to about 2 inches before the connector that runs through the top of the pump assembly. Sliced the 10 gauge with the stock wire and, damn the car runs like it's got a purpose :).

I guess what I was hoping to hear was that someone made an aftermarket type of pass through connector like the stock one, but for use with bigger wire. If anyone knows where I could get such a thing, let me know.

Thanks.

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Craig H
92 Laser AWD
 

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If you are really gung-ho on rewiring all the way to the pump this is what i would do.

pick out all the cap material and drill out the rivet.(make sure the pump is already removed so you dont get anything in the tank)
then find a rubber grommet to fit in the hole and put a short stud or bolt through the grommet. If you can find a stud that has no threads in the middle it would prabably give you the best seal. Now you can put eyelet connectors on the end of the 10 ga wire and fasten it between two nuts. Then do the same to the other side. Just make sure that the stud cant ground out on anything. Seal it with electrical tape or maybe epoxy or jbweld(i don't think jb weld is conductive, but if it is would someone please post)

Just make sure you arent going to get any sparks in your gastank if something isn't grounded right or the bolt isn't isolated properly. We can just imagine what might happen.

goodluck, let me know if it works. ;)

[This message has been edited by gsxalex (edited September 06, 2000).]
 
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