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Elite DSMtalker
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True...
Baaaah....
Just do whatever Kurt says...
:cool:
 

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It's hard to guess from the "noise description" over the internet, but I'm surprised no one mentioned the possibility of a dying hydraulic tensioner.

It'll sound similar to a really bad lifter, but come from the side of the motor, will vary with rpm as described, yadda-yadda.

I also don't think I'd spend too much time/money doing bearings on something that has 45psi in a hole, and 60 psi in others.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I got the pan off today. OMG a huge balancehsaft bearing is laying in my pan it is alil bent but very intact. Like i said i only ran the car for a minute with the noise. The noise was the balance shaft smacking around in an oblong circle hitting the block where the bearing was sitting. hence i go the balance shaft eliminator kit Im going to install it and leave the stock rod bearings alone as they have no up and down play and are in spec on side to side. I think I have to take that whole plate with the oil pump gear and balance shaft tensioner???that whole plate has to come off the motor to get the rear shaft out???? Anyways Im glad i bought the Talon cheap and was able to tear it down and solve the issue. There was no reason to scrap the motor or the car. Thanx guys, will update on piecing it back together. Yea those readings on the psi were at cold so not sure what they are worth and was hard to thread in that slippery fitting.? Good luck with your problems and hope you guys learned from mine. Thanx DSMtalk.
 

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Elite DSMtalker
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DSSA said:
It's hard to guess from the "noise description" over the internet, but I'm surprised no one mentioned the possibility of a dying hydraulic tensioner.

It'll sound similar to a really bad lifter, but come from the side of the motor, will vary with rpm as described, yadda-yadda.
NOW THAT, makes sense. Although it seemed VERY firm when I installed it I seemed to have a "it gets loose" problem. I simply added more tension to start with and left myself with a more compressed tensioner to start JIC. It only does it cold. Once I'm half way on the temp gauge its smooth as a kitten.
But that makes sense. I had no idea they would chatter.
Wheres the cheapest place to get a 2g auto tensioner?

I can't believe a balance shaft bearing was just sitting in there.
That doesn't make any sense. Those are usually in there with some gumption. And require pounding out. You have to take off the front case to get to the oil pump, to get to the driven gear, to get the shaft out, to get the mini stub in. *deep breath* :eek:
Take it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Ok guys got the front case off not too hard. Got the balanceshaft kit on. Im waiting on a whole gasket set cuz I cant order the front case one and there is no mitsubishi dealer around here they closed. Anyways 140 for a Felpro kit and tuesday itll be in so Im putting the 1g back together and hope i get the timing bel thing right I got the VFAQ on it but not sure If i can make or get that threaded tensioner tool. Any tips on putting it back together or seals and gaskets will be appreciated. Also how much and what kind of fluid should i put in the tramsfer case??? thanx guys.
 

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Be specific in how you mean set correctly.
As I think I'm going to be doing it ALLLLLLL over again sometime real soon.
The tensioner was stiff as a brick when I compressed it.
I used a small vise and cranked slow. Put rubber between the plug...
But since I had it loosen up on me once, I left the rod crushed by the tensioner pulley bracket. Pulled the pin and made sure it came up a little. It didn't really come up that much since I really turned that pulley so the shit was holy friggin tight. (I got lucky the first time with no bent valves, not taking second chances)
(I ended up 6 teeth in the red last time around)
I assumed I was ok. Now this noise... :mad:
I did use a 1g crank pulley as a replacement for my derailed 2g...
But it looked great before I put it on...
I have no driveability problems.
I'm not thinking its bottom end stuff. Sounds like valve/piston clash on the side of my engine. Almost sounds like cylinder #1. But if you listen lower it gets louder. It echos thru the timing cover into the valve cover. Its really hard to pin down. But you can hear it underneath the car too...
What happens after it makes this noise for a while...? Like if I don't fix it right away...?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Ok I had the 1G all back together today. Started it and it made an instant buzzing noise like a fan just barely hitting the oil pan not sure what it is. The sound is constant with engine rpm. It sounds like its in the pan or the oil pump picket sounds like plastic or metal vibrating really fast but not too loud like a knock, just buzzing. I dont have all acc. belts on and the timing is dead on. ALso have no fans in the car yet. What could this noise be crank skiiming the bottom of the pan? Oil pump gears?? I did find a small weird spacer that was like a quarter inch tall nd was left over after the rebuild its like a quarter in round. please help so I dont blow up my 1G.
 

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That's exactly what I have. Its like something barely rubbing the timing cover. Like a buzz. Sounds unhealthy... almost makes you think bottom end. Then goes away once its warm. I just let it warm up for 2 minutes and said F! it.
:rolleyes:
 

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There's a thicker washer that goes on top of the tensioner bracket that you put a bolt thru, when you bolt the bracket to the block. That's so it can swivel. :eek:
The oil pump gear pulley has a nut... not a bolt...
The front balance shaft pulley, has a not round hole. Round with a flat.
Thats it. Its like half an inch thick and hollow.
Sits underneath that pulley and the balance shaft goes thru it and then in the pulley. It sits inside that seal to keep it from leaking when it spins. If you eliminated this shaft it should be gone. If you left it in... then you gotta take that pulley off and put it back the right way. (If you aren't using the b/s but left the front one in this is NO BIG DEAL. You just gotta get the covers off as it will not require doing the timing belts again.
Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Yea I left the fron shaft in and put the pulley back on it and the tensioner and used RTV to seal it from leaking..so I havent had a leak. The oil pumps gears did show some light chipping and wear on the case since the rear balance shaft went buck wild when the bearing fell out. ZI think the noise Im hearing is from the pump. I bought a new front case and pump anyway to improve oil pressure and hopefully get rid of that noise, nothing else in the bottom end could sound that squirly and plastic like noise(like a cheap plastic box fan that fell over and is grinding) Well Im tearing her all the way down again...Round#2....
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Ok I just tore the 1G down this week and put a brand new front case and oil pump. I redone all the gaskets amd belts. The car started today I put a new timing belt on it. Im not sure if my idler, tensioner pulley, or auto tensioner is good. After running the car for 30 sec. with no noise :D after a half hour the belt had alot of play?? Is this normal? Wea re going to tighten it up more tommorow...is there anything else I should look before taking the 1G out on the road.
 

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Cougar232 said:
Ok I just tore the 1G down this week and put a brand new front case and oil pump. I redone all the gaskets amd belts. The car started today I put a new timing belt on it. Im not sure if my idler, tensioner pulley, or auto tensioner is good. After running the car for 30 sec. with no noise :D after a half hour the belt had alot of play?? Is this normal? Wea re going to tighten it up more tommorow...is there anything else I should look before taking the 1G out on the road.

it depends on where you're measuring it, if you're doing the "pushing down on the belt betweeen the cams" thing that's not an accurate measurement as sometimes the cams stop at odd places.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I just noticed some slack and play between the idler pulley and the rear cam. When my buddy(fellow dsm'er) put it on he said thats all he could get out of the tensioner. The belt did loosen up on its first break in so we tensioned it again. Maybe it will hold where its at if so then I should be fine, but any looser I may run into skipping teeth or breaking the belt, I came to far as you can see. Btw the A/T TSI actually suprised my buddy that had a 5 Speed TSI.
 

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depending on how you put the belt on you always want to make sure you take the slack out between the intake cam and the crank by "preloading" it or rotating the crank by hand with the belt on making sure you don't knock the cams out of alignment. that way you're not a tooth off on the back side.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Ok checked the belt tension today after leaving the car sit after its 2nd trip. Belt tension is better and about 1/2 total play each way. Went to start the talon today, and i let it warm up but it wouldnt move RND21 nothing there?...lol...oh yea it needed tranny fluid duh....Every seems ok but the car still smokes out the exhaust whitish at an idle and oil pressure is kick ass and temp is good and turbo spools nice and hard??? Oh one other thing I took it up to 5K rpms in first gear and it go there fast but anything above 5K seemed like I was really straining the engine and the revs got slower??????Any help on this is appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Also the first time the car heated up I could hear a boiling of oil or something in the manifold or head where the exhaust was and car does smoke whitish light kinda??? Car did sit for a year and I just did a new oil pump and deleted the rear balance shaft, turbo was replaced at sometime but dont trust they took care of it as far as oil goes???
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Ok the car now has a belt that is really loose to the point I can slide it off the cam with little pressure. Should I buy a the tensioner and idle pulley since I did adjust those twice? Or is it the auto tensioner that needs replaced? The belt only gets loose after a few short test runs????
 

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Well i have toasted a few water pumps, and as well a few of those iders/tensioners. You can tell if the little ball bearings are messed.
But it's a pita to get at all this stuff imo, so replace anything suspect.

I'm no expert, but if you even think that the auto tensoioner might be out, replace it. I think your engine / valve train is worth it =)
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Ok I think we figured out why the belt was loose as hell. It might be the fact that We didnt compress the auto tensioner the first time we just used the tensioner pulley to put force on the belt. We did the grenade pin thing today and the belt is nice and snug and much better than before. Turbo car is running good other than some loud noise from just the cams and stuff working? My idle is high from that plug being ghetto rigged, my new throttle body comes in this week. Not sure if the car is stil smoking and or using oil?? Seems to run strong and I dont see oil spraying under the hood and the dipstick doesnt pop out no more since rebuild.
 
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