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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys so I recently got a Evolution 8 and just went to get it dyno'd the other day and the results were 192HP and 210Ft/Lbs torque... This is with 272 cams, tube exhaust manifold, upgraded head gasket, timing is spot on, A/F throughout entire dyno run was 16.46, changed to SSQV BOV and still have the factory FMIC, and when I drive the car it DEFINITELY feels way more than the mere 192 that it's showing.

So I am just confused if the dyno itself was acting up or maybe I'm having some other issue. Any help here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Well the sheet they printed out from it had the air fuel thing and the two number on it were the 16.46 and 11.34 I believe. They tuned it a bit before they ran it on the dyno.

I'll try to get a picture up here in case I'm just reading it wrong.

Edit: Oh and the boost as set at 18 for the dyno runs.
 

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If what your saying is true and accurate...That is WAAAAAAAAAAAY to lean of a A/F mixture and that would explain your problem. Did the Dyno shop use a tail pipe sensor, if so do you have ANY exhaust leaks?

Because for a "tuning" shop to not notice this and go "Holy shit" means they have no fucking clue what there doing, which means I would never take my car or any car to those guys again if I were you. That is, if thats correct. Crap like this is actually why DSMer's do there own work lol.
 

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Want to scan (or photograph) that dyno sheet and post it up? That'll probably answer a lot of questions. I have serious doubts you're actually running that lean, the misfires would cause the ignition signal to break up so bad you'd never get a clean pull.

And you're sure it's 18psi? Mitsu fucked up my car when they had it on their lot (forgot the boost pill during a stock reversion), so my baseline the day after I bought it was 170 @ 12psi. An MBC later it was sitting at a solid 215 @ 21psi (super rich in the high end) Healthy stock is 205 on that dyno, for the record.
 

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What type of dyno was it? If you using the dynojet software you have to make sure you are reading from both rollers. I don't think you are running 16:1 fuel ratio. Also what do you mean, your timing was spot on?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok i'll get the dyno sheet up here. And 205 HP at wheel seems really low for Evo.... Oh and I live in Washington now so I can't get to strictly modified, went to a place called English racing, they supposedly do amazing work on Evo's and heard lots of great reviews so that's why I went there, there doesn't seem to be any exhaust leak and again, this is quite a reputable shop for Evo's and they said they were really shocked that it pulled so low. There weren't any CEL's either so no misfires detected.

 

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From what I'm seeing it's 16.69 psi of boost, 11.94 AFR.

I don't know how to get this into your head, but dyno's aren't supposed to spit out random high numbers to make your dick big. You use it as a tool so that you can see changes in power level from one pull to the next when you're tuning. That's it.

If you're trying to compensate for having such a tiny dick, ask the shop to skew the correction next time so it looks like you have eleventybillion horsepower.


People like this guy are why I decided not to get an evo. So many idiot fucks that don't know their dick from a hole in the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well for starters you're an asshole. Second, I was just concerned that I was having some other issue with the engine that i'm missing since the HP should technically be higher, maybe a compression issue or something that I just don't know. So quit being a the tiny dick you keep talking about and stay out of here if you have nothing to contribute.

But you were correct about the boost and A/F thing, totally missed that, just saw the max boost in upper window and went off that.
 

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For starters, you are quite right. I'm an asshole, and I know what I'm talking about. You however, don't.

Why should it be making more power? ("Because I think so." does not count as a valid answer)

I even went as far as explaining to you the purpose of a dyno. Here, I'll let you in on a little common knowledge. Strap your car down to 3 different dynos from 3 different manufacturers, get 3 different numbers.

What were the ambient temps in the shop? Humidity level? Barometric pressure? Dew point? Content of inert gases in the air at the time? Fuel temperature? Fuel contents? All of these are factors as well.

So, in the future, don't just hop on here saying "ZOMGZ0RZ MAH TEH EVO ISN'T MAKING AS MANY HORSEPOWERS AS I THINK IT SHOULD!1!!11!!oneoneeleven."

If you don't have the faintest idea of how to make power, haven't done any actual testing, or even provided a single bit of measurable data, you'll probably get your dick rubbed in the dirt by some damn asshole.


Again, reading comprehension has failed. Why are there so many idiots?
 

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For starters, you are quite right. I'm an asshole, and I know what I'm talking about. You however, don't.

Why should it be making more power? ("Because I think so." does not count as a valid answer)

I even went as far as explaining to you the purpose of a dyno. Here, I'll let you in on a little common knowledge. Strap your car down to 3 different dynos from 3 different manufacturers, get 3 different numbers.

What were the ambient temps in the shop? Humidity level? Barometric pressure? Dew point? Content of inert gases in the air at the time? Fuel temperature? Fuel contents? All of these are factors as well.

So, in the future, don't just hop on here saying "ZOMGZ0RZ MAH TEH EVO ISN'T MAKING AS MANY HORSEPOWERS AS I THINK IT SHOULD!1!!11!!oneoneeleven."

If you don't have the faintest idea of how to make power, haven't done any actual testing, or even provided a single bit of measurable data, you'll probably get your dick rubbed in the dirt by some damn asshole.


Again, reading comprehension has failed. Why are there so many idiots?
Oh fuck yes. This just made my night.

Loki = my hero
 

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I don't think it is as bad as you are reading it loki.

He is just asking "is something wrong?" because he probably hears all the big baller evo talk of "my evo is making 300hp stock" from all the evo-m fags and thought,

OH SHIT is something wrong, should I worry, is there something I can catch in time before it is too late?

The answer, after a compression test, might just be tuning or dyno settings now that the dyno sheet is up the experts (maybe even cute ones like loki) can help the guy out.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Alright Loki, for starters, chill. I'm very well aware of the fact the there are many factors as to what numbers the dyno will put out. If you would actually quit being so damn arrogant for a moment you would see that the reason I posted this on here is not because I want "elevntybillion" horsepower, it's because out of concern that something isn't how it should be considering the upgrades that are done is all.

So if you would, let's go ahead and get past all this pointless crap of attacking each other cause this really isn't the point of this forum and please fill in some blanks that i'm missing.

A few mods I forgot to mention earlier are that it does have the Walbro 255 fuel pump and larger injectors to support the boost I had it set at before, roughly 23 according to the gauge. But after I took it there the turned down the boost controller (have the Greddy Electronic one, no idea why I spaced about it and started talking about the MBC) and its set at now 53% as opposed to 70% that I had before I took it there. So essentially is the car roughly in the range it should be considering the boost level and 272 cams, or do you think I may be losing compression or I really don't know what.

The guy at the shop was telling me that something was going on with it and saying I shouldn't drive it, but didn't offer any reason as to why, wanted me to leave it there so they could check it out but I couldn't. Once again any insight would be helpful, thanks.

And Loki, sorry for somehow pissing you off I guess..
 

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Holy fuck, some information that would have been useful in the first post.

Dyno numbers aren't very useful for diagnosis if you don't have a previous pull on the same brand with the same corrections settings to compare it to.

First and foremost, I would recommend calling the shop and finding out who told you not to drive the car, and why. Do a wet, and a dry compression test, double check crank and cam timing are dead on, check base timing, log a pull and post it here. Once we have hard data to look at we can begin to diagnose what may or may not be happening, and whether it should.

Take a moment to think about every damn mod on the car, think about any strange behavior, noises, misfires, etc. you've had at any point since you've gotten the car. If you have old logs from before, up through now those would be great.

What might possibly make me shoot my goo is if you can get a rough timetable together with all of this on it.

I am undoubtedly an asshole, but if you can provide me with information I can try to help you. Without information to analyze, I am a raging dick with herpes. and AIDS. and 36 grit sandpaper. and salt. with hotsauce on top..
 

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English racing actually IS a very good shop. I take back what I said since I did not know who you took the car too, and you were claiming the A/F ratio was your boost.


Do you have any means of logging the ECU?
 
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