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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I finally got my outer timing cove in so I coult put the car togetherr and fire her up for the first time since ive owned her and well I need your guys experience. I had to drain all the gas out of the tank the car sat for 9 months b4 I got her because the guy I got it from didnt have the money or know how to do a T-belt and just had a kid and bought a family car and just let the eclipse sit till I got it:) Well I triple checked the timimg then put everything back together double checked all connections and hoses, vac lines, ect... put the battery on charge for awhile then tried to start her, well she starts right up but does not want to idle at all and when it does idle it idles rough and acts like it wants to die, if you give her gas she doesnt miss a beat actually runs better than i expected but when you get off the gas she goes back to idleing rough and wanting to die, I figured it was just the bad gas that was in the lines and tried this a few times hopeing the good gas iput in after draing the tank would clear her out but it didnt and in those few time the CEL came on, but if the car drops below 500 rpms before it dies the light goes off and if you give it gas right before it dies out the light comes back on as soon as it gets above 500 rpms or so and stays on. I dont know what it could be, I cleaned the air filter , put new plugs in thinkin it might help but no such luck, could it be the O2 sensors? maybe the EGR?? should I go ahead and block of the EGR and get new O2 sensors or just plug the O2 sensors holes and zip tie the sensors to the frame and firewall let um read good air??? I dont know what do and Im soooooo close to puttin her on the road, any help would be awesome.
 

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Adjust the BISS
 

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Does the Idle stabilize after the car warms up? could be a bad FIAV or IAC
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sorry to sound like a newb but im horrible with abbreviations, I dont mean to be a pain but have no clue what the above abbrevatons stand for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry but no it doesnt really stabalize after warm up, I let her run like that to see if she ran hot and she runs really cool and blows some cold ass air too being a floridian I cant tell you how happy I was about that.
 

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I'd check the BISS, but I don't think that would throw a CEL.

Spark and EGR are next on my list for a car that won't hold idle, normally boost leak before EGR, but it's an NT, making the EGR a likely culprit (would also throw a CEL ;) ).

If that doesn't work, get yourself a reader to get the code. With a DSM it's a good investment anyway.
 

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hellonwheels said:
Sorry to sound like a newb but im horrible with abbreviations, I dont mean to be a pain but have no clue what the above abbrevatons stand for.
www.acronymfinder.com can be very helpful with abbreviations.
BISS = Base Idle Set Screw
FIAV = Fast Idle Air Valve
IAC = Idle Air Control
EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation
DSM = Diamond Star Motors
NT = Non-turbo
CEL = Check Engine Light

I'm sure you knew those last ones (since you wrote them), I'm just feeling punchy I guess.
 

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Go to autozone and use their scanner to see what codes your car is throwing...
 

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Get codes checked. That will most likely give you the reason for the Check Engine Light (CEL). Don't zip tie an o2 sensor to anyting, they are suppose to be in the exhaust, leave them there unless the code is telling you that an o2 sensor went bad. When you find and fix the cause of the CEL, there is a fairly good chace you will also fix the poor idle problem as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I looked for a BISS screw and im pretty sure i dont have one, do the NT's have them because the pic in the link above that its circled in isnt a 420a. Ima get a new EGR and IAC and see if that fixes it, the problem is I cant get it to a parts store because its tagged and with it being automatic and not idleing right it probably wont shift right even if it was tagged so I dunno, I guess il bee investing in a scanner soon.
 

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Cherry95gst said:
^ As far as I know the 420's do NOT have a Biss
They don't some people should not post about the 420a ;)

They do have an IAC valve though. Try pulling that and cleaning it up make sure the plunger moves pretty easily. It's one of the quickest and easiest things to check, if you're not sure how then look here: How to clean your IACLook for vac leaks and try to get the codes pulled. Advance or auto zone may even lend the scanner out, why not, they lend other tools :dunno: You can try the key dance, but I want to say it doesn't work on 98's. I'll do a quick search and post more info if it does

Edit: yeah sorry keydance only works up to 97's
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
thanks alot man, im going to try cleaning the IAC tommorow, worst comes to worse a new ones only 50 bucks so if its bad ill get a new one, I priced out a new EGR in case its the culprit and man i wasnt expecting 120 bucks, I think ima go ahead and just block it off anyway. I was gonna ask if theyd lend out a scanner but didnt bother because i didnt think theyd lend out something that expensive, maybe ill see if theyll let me if i leave a credit card and id, its worked for other things.
 

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Autozone lets you use it for free... Just leave your license...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ok guys i got a scanner and its throwing 2 codes, one for TPS high imput does that mean I need a new Throttle position sensor???? and the other code is for the EVAP canister purge valve fault I dont even know what that is or how to fix it, any help would be great im starting to get frustrated with this car and i havent even drove it yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
well i can get a new TPS for like 50 bucks, but anything related to the EVAP stuff I cant get at the auto parts store, so I guess ill have to go to mitsubishi??? Ive been reading the manual for 2 days trying to figure out where this purge valve is and no such luck, Im starting to see why you guys are always working on your cars, whats up with all this emissions crap on this car???
 

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Discondent the Throttle Position sensor connector. Check resistance between TP sensor terminal 1 and 3, it should be 3500-6500 ohms. Check resistance between TP sensor terminal 2 and three, while moving throttle from idle to wide open. Resistance should change smoothly in proportion to throttle movement. If resistance is as specified, go to next step. If resistance is not as specified, replace TP sensor.

This is out of shop keys trouble shoot guide. Do those tests and find out if you need to buy a sensor be cause if its not the problem your going to have fun with wiring. Good luck.
 

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For the EVAP code
Disconnect EVAP purge solenoid connector. Check resistance between EVAP purge solenoid terminals, should be 25-35 ohms at 68 degrees. If resistance not as specified, replace EVAP purge solenoid.

I forgot about your other code.
 
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