[Icantdo55]

I'm a car guy but never had a DSM and honestly did not want to learn a new platform. I have a 700whp foxbody that's been upgraded for last 30 years and now makes 700+whp. Also built a Mazdaspeed Miata a few years back that is way fun and my semi daily driver it's currently making 400whp and waiting on a flex fuel upgrade tk get to the Mia 400 mark. My wife on other hand is sadly not a car person and never impressed with my toys just scared of them. Only car she ever talks about was a plymouth laser she had when she was 20 years old, all I know is that's it was a non turbo 5 speed and some kinda tan color. I've leept an eye out for one for years and the other day a red 5 speed came up for sale near me. Only issue it's red, but I can fix that if need be. 109k on clock and said it runs great. I'll go see it today. Only issue seller says us the "IAC"is bad and causes it to stall when cold. (idle air control thing... What's ever you DSM guys call it. Lol When it's warm it runs great but he said it's hard to find the part.

Anything in particular I should be looking at on this car? Hoepeing to make wife happy as she was with it 25 years ago.

 

[diambo4life]

Unfortunately the DSM boards are pretty much dead due to social media. I would try and search the archives here first as lots of these issues have been addressed. Is this a non turbo car? Can you zoom out on the photo a little bit so we can see where this connector is relative to other areas of the engine bay? It looks like the IAC motor to me.....A lot of us deleted this part (and the FIAV) as they are expensive and hard to find. I would turn out the BISS screw in the T/B to see whether it helps out with the stalling. Welcome aboard.

 

[diambo4life]

As far as the car is concerned, look at regular car issues. I would check the transmission to make sure it shifts fine in all gears (no notchiness or grinding.) Bein a 30 year old car, most wear items will need to be gone through anyway but the transmission would be #1 as these are getting rarer to find in good shape and Mitsubishi has ceased the manufacture of most components. Almost everything else can be sourced and easily fixed.

 

[lazylaser]

BISS screw, O-ring around that and air leaks around the T/B, bad vacuum hoses, etc.
there are a few IACs out there metal and black plastic, either will work. I used to keep a bucket full of them around, until I got a good working black cased one, and that has been no issues for years. I see they sell for hundreds for NOS, don't do that. Working ones can be found for 1/10th that, besides its usually a combination of things so just separating with the money would be a big disappointment if that alone does not fix the issue.
search BISS screw, should help give you some ideas.