DSMTalk Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,637 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a fal fan. It came with a bunch of 12g wire, fuse, no relay though. I have read about these fans melting wires because of the high current draw. I am not wanting to use my stock wires, but want the ecu to turn the fans on like normal.
What relay should I use?
And how do I go about wiring up the relay, bigger wire, fuse and not put it on a toggle switch.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,694 Posts
All I have ever done and never had a single issue was cut off the stock wires right where they enter the fan and wire up the new fan right into your stock wires. Never used aftermarket wires, fuses or anything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,637 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well that's how my el cheap0 slim fan is. But I know this fal fan pulls a decent amount of current, plus I may add another one later.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
I recently put 2 pusher fans on rewiring them off the stock harness.

Get a relay
(85)Ground-any bolt on frame
(86)Switch-blue and green wire from stock passenger side fan(car side of plug)
(87)Power- FUSED wire from battery 10A or 15A should do
(30)Load- to the power wire of your new fan
(87a)5th pin-unused [not all relays have this pin]

This was on my 2g 1995 gsx. I would assume the wire colors are the same for all 2gs. Ecu still has master control of when they turn on/off with stock temp scale at 212*.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
Gamble said:
Well that's how my el cheap0 slim fan is. But I know this fal fan pulls a decent amount of current, plus I may add another one later.

I recently did a 16g install on my car. The stock radiator fan had to go or chopped big time. I bought a 12inch SPAL Pusher that flows 1630CFM [A puller would have fit BUT at the time I was not sure and I needed the car running].

Well I installed it with the stock wires and put a jumper from the A/C relay to the radiator relay so when the ECU powers on the cooling fan on High they BOTH turn on high. When I turn on my A/C they BOTH turn on on low. So far no heating issues in 90+ degree weather here in socal and stock wires seem to be fine :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
Gamble said:
TT- what wires did you jumper?
snb- what relay do I need? Got a part number?
Read this article:
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/2gcoolingfan.html

Here is what I did [I didn't install a toggle switch]

PROCEDURE:

1. Disconnect the car's negative battery cable.
2. Remove the engine fuse box cover on the passenger side of the engine bay.
3. On the bottom row, the one closest to the front of the car, there are six relays (black in color). The ones in my car are labeled "MR 122409 12V OMRON MADE IN USA 7198A11B". Pull upward to remove the second from the left (the engine fan relay) and the fifth from the left (the AC fan relay). Note that each has four prongs. Here's how the stock system works. The upper two prongs are the main power terminals for the fans, and the lower two prongs are the ECU signal terminals. When 12V is applied by the ECU to the lower two terminals of the engine fan relay (at a coolant temperature of about 210 degrees F), the relay will trip to shut an internal contact, which allows current to flow through the upper terminals to the engine fan to start it. When the ECU has decided that the engine is cool enough, it will turn off the engine fan by removing the 12V signal to the lower terminals, opening the internal contact, and breaking the connection between the upper two terminals to remove main power to the engine fan. The AC fan is controlled by the ECU in the same manner. If the air conditioner is turned on, the ECU turns on both fans, irrespective of engine coolant temperature.



4. In the holder for the AC fan relay, insert the end of a 16 gage wire into the upper most jack. Do the same thing for the jack just below it. Route both wires through the rubber boot surrounding the steering column into the car. Once they're in the car, connect the wires across a toggle switch and mount the switch in a convenient location (see diagram below). This will be your ECU override switch that will enable you to turn on the fans independently of the ECU. Leave the switch in OFF position, for now.

5. In the holder for the engine fan relay, insert a 16 gage wire into the second jack from the top. Connect the other end of that wire to the same jack on the holder for the AC fan relay. See diagram below. This wire connects the two fans so that they always operate together as a pair, both ON or both OFF. If you omit this entire step, you'll have control over the AC fan only.

6. Gently reinstall both relays into their original positions. It will take a little pressure to get the prongs all the way back into place due to the wires that you've just inserted into the jacks. The wires take up some of the space that the prongs need to slide back into the jacks. Do not force them. If you can't get a relay into place with moderate pressure, remove the relay and spread the wire ends so that they lay flatter against the jacks, then try again.

7. Inspect your installation to make sure that no wire ends contact any electrical conductors that they should not contact. You could blow a fuse if this is the case.

8. Reinstall the cover on the fuse box.

9. Reconnect the negative battery cable.


If you look at this last picture, you will notice there are 3 wires. ONE running from one relay to the other relay BOTH on the same "prong" or "connector". That is ALL that is needed unless you want the toggle switch.




Good luck :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,637 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok, I'm looking at the very bottom picture. The wire that you use to jumper the 2 relays togethere, where they connect, are there wires there already and you just add to them or do you disconnect the existing wire on each relay?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
Gamble said:
Ok, I'm looking at the very bottom picture. The wire that you use to jumper the 2 relays togethere, where they connect, are there wires there already and you just add to them or do you disconnect the existing wire on each relay?
No, there are no wires there. Once you pull out one of the relays it will be much easier than trying to read it, but I'll do my best to explain. ;)

Those 4 "prongs" or "connectors" on each relay slide into the fuse box [there are "jacks" that each prong slides into]. It's like the fuse box is a "female" adapter and the relay is "male". You get the 16g wire and strip the ends of it to expose the actual wire.

You pull the relay out and on the prong it tells you to [2nd from the top] you insert the wire into the the "jack" that prong would go into and do the same for the other relay it says to. Once you have the wire going from the specified "jack" to the next all you do is slide the relay back in.

If this doesn't clear it up I would be more than happy to take pictures after work 7pm PACIFIC time.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top