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Elite DSMtalker
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Discussion Starter #1
I hope this is the right forum for this, but I nearly wrecked the other day due to my seriously worn out brakes, and some causes that were beyond my control (people running red lights). Anyway, from high speeds my steering wheel studders when I brake so i know I have warped rotors, so those need to be replaced as well. Should I just go with stock rotors and pads, or what? I am not into road courses, but i would like some sort of nicer braking abilities than stock if Im going to spend the money on brakes. Where should I go and what should I get? Thanks so much, seriously after nearly wrecking her I have decided to change my ways and go ahead and replace these brakes.
 

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Go with what RRE recommends on their site. Get some new OEM rear rotors and pads, Powerslot front rotors and metal master pads, Motul 600, and possibly steel braided brake lines.
 

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Elite DSMtalker
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Discussion Starter #3
For powerslot rotors, is this the cheapest you have seen, if not tell me another site to get them at. Also which exact ones should I get, my car was made May 1994.

http://horsepowerfreaks.com/ShowProductsMain.asp?SubCategoryCd=ROTO

What brake pads do you guys recommend? Green stuff, metal master, hawk, what?

Here are HPF's price on hawk pads, seems very cheap:

http://horsepowerfreaks.com/ShowProductsMain.asp?SubCategoryCd=PAD

I seriously am lost as to what to get for brake stuff. Trying to keep the budget as low as possible. Should I get SS lines? My friend who does road courses says it doesnt matter for me since I dont do road courses etc, but I wanna know if I should go ahead and do it since my car is a 1995 and it could be preventive maintenance. What are your thoughts.
 

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Elite DSMtalker
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Discussion Starter #4
As far as brake fluid I have heard to use the Ford Heavy Duty fluid. Any opinions?
 

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Porterfield R4S pads are well worth the price. Metal masters are crap, the dust a lot, and in all honesty don't do any better than stock pads.
My friend Matt has "big brakes" on his 90awd, with stock pads all the way around, and a later 1" master cylinder.
My friend Todd has stock small brakes on his 91awd, R4S pads all the way around, and a stock 1" master cylinder.

Slotted/cross drilled rotors are BS and do nothing to make you actually stop faster. Get normal rotors and save the money.

Stainless lines make for less compliance, a stiffer pedal, and more feel.
 

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Cross drilled tend to crack. Slotted wear pads faster, but dissipate gasses faster leading to less fade. I'd get either slotted or solid, slotted if you plan to road race or autox sometime. Cross drilled if you only care about looks. Hawk pads are pretty good, Porterfields are probably the best but most expensive. I would probably get Hawk pads for my car after reading a little bit more about them.
 

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Elite DSMtalker
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Discussion Starter #7
So stick with stock rotors? Get SS lines, and should I go with porterfield pads or hawk? Are you sure stock rotors are the best bet for the price? How much can I get them from, where is the cheapest retailer?
 

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They'll do for a car that you don't road race or autox. You could probably get all OEM if you're really worried about price. Personally I'd get:
Powerslot Slotted Front Rotors
Hawk HPS pads front
OEM Rear rotors
OEM Rear pads
Motul 600 Fluid
Stainless Steel Lines
 

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My brakes were the same way several months ago, I was about to start running redlights because the car actually hopped when I braked.

When I looked at the rears they were solid, when I got all 4 Pslots the back had vented discs(should have checked production date).I only got to install the fronts and just cleaned the rears and adjusted.

Pslot recommends metal masters, that is what the paper in the box says and they are about 50 at adv. auto parts.

I am very happy compared to before, I just wanted to stop though.

I have faded the fronts a couple times since they were broken in.
 

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Elite DSMtalker
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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, heres a break down:

SS lines: 85 bucks
Motul 600: 9 bucks a bottle x2 for 18 bucks total
Pslots: 75 bucks each for the front, so 150 total from HPF
Rear stock rotors: ?
Hawk Pads: 50
Stock rear pads: ?

How much are the missing pieces, and are there any better deals out there that I havent posted? This is already coming very close to my budget believe it or not.

Should I just keep the current rear rotors? How can I tell if they need replacing?
 

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16g-95GSX said:
Ok, heres a break down:

SS lines: 85 bucks
Motul 600: 9 bucks a bottle x2 for 18 bucks total
Pslots: 75 bucks each for the front, so 150 total from HPF
Rear stock rotors: ?
Hawk Pads: 50
Stock rear pads: ?

How much are the missing pieces, and are there any better deals out there that I havent posted? This is already coming very close to my budget believe it or not.

Should I just keep the current rear rotors? How can I tell if they need replacing?
Check your production date to ses if you need vented rear disc, if so there are no metal master pads that fit the rear.

My rears were in good shape so I just made sure the pads were free and put them back on. The rear brakes only do 30+/- of the braking so they will last longer than the front.

If you are going for aftermarket rotors, go for the pads to. Hawk makes some that fit also.

The rear powerslots are more than the front but I would buy them over stock if I was buying new. My rears are slightly warped but no where near the fronts were and I can barely feel the shake until I get into the pedal hard.
 

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Elite DSMtalker
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Discussion Starter #12
Mine was made in May 1994, so I believe I have the vented rotors.
 

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The only place that I know of that sells rare rear rotors is RRE, I guess you could special order them elsewhere if you knew the # number.

It will cost near $300 this route.

It depends alot on how many miles to wheather you need rears to, they are probably warped though.
You might be able to get away with just rear oem pads and have the old rotors resurfaced.
 

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Motul? You don't need Motul. You've said it yourself that you don't road race or autocross (not that Autocross is like Road Racing on brakes), so you can save a few bucks by just getting a decent ABS (if you have it still) brake fluid. If you want, you can get it, but it's honestly not worth it, even for road racers.

Hawk's are decent pads, not quite the best, but they're better than EBC's. EBC has a good marketing campaign, that's all. :p If you want to make sure you get the BEST for stock brakes, skip the SS lines and get R4S pads.

I need to do over my own brakes soon myself. Glowing Rotors (It was at night) + crappy pads = Whoa, I can't stop.
 

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what about the brembo rotors?? The floating rotor design??
 

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Elite DSMtalker
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Discussion Starter #16
MaJiKTeRRoR said:
what about the brembo rotors?? The floating rotor design??
explain
 

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Elite DSMtalker
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Discussion Starter #17
Bump
 

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16g-95GSX said:
Their rotors have a floating disc design. The mounting surface has a gap so heat can be dissipated from not only the slots and cross drills. Does anybody know what I'm talking about??
 

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Elite DSMtalker
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Discussion Starter #20
jap drifter said:
here ya go. baer 13 incher dual pistons on for sale for 745 http://www.i-m-racing.com/baerracsporb.html

thats a good price for them. they arent the 1800 monster AEM 4 piston deals but i talked to a local who said they that he really liked them for the price
Those would be nice, but first off I cant fit those on my 16" Konig Villans, and 2nd for the price I'd just rather go with the 4 piston TCE's.
 
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