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Idle Surge Check List

91K views 193 replies 98 participants last post by  STI EATER 
#1 · (Edited)
Can we make this a sticky?

Idle Surge Check List

Here is a site for everyone to check when they think there idle is jumpy/surging.

Try the Checklist from cheapest up.

http://www.myzero.com/engine/surge.html

ALSO.....I have heard that if you capacitors in your ECU start going bad they can cause idle surge.
 
#2 ·
Would be a good idea but iv done all those but one and i still have the problem after this ill be an expert at idle surge and ill write up a faq for everyone.. we can make that a sticky or somthing.
 
#3 ·
i have a similar problem, my rpm's keep going up and down between 1200 and 2000 rpm's , but its kinda tricky, if i start the car and drive off right away and stop at a light then my rpm's are never steady, unless i start the car and wait 7-8 minutes for it to worm up then my idle stays steady at about 1000 rpm, so if i want my car not to act up i always have to wait a while before i drive off which is anoying especially when its a hot day. do you guys think i can still follow these procedures to fix my problem.
thanks. :dunno:
 
#6 ·
Thanks, i really needed this site.

I have one quick question, can of these cause my car to die when i shift? Say for example my TB plate getting stuck or my biss screw is too lose?

THe other day my car started to idle at 700RPM and it usually idles a little over 1000. I figured it was my dump tube "S" shaped pipe piece came off again, but it was still on. Now when i shift my car wants to die, like the RMPs drop too fast for the car to catch itself and come really close to dieing (less than 100 RPM) or just dies.

This gives me a good chance to clean my TB, block off the EGR valve and replace my O ring on my BISS.
 
#7 ·
OMG THIS IS GREAT!

I just registered here b/c i have mad dsm probs...and the first thing i see is this sticky thread for my exact prob!@! this is madness!!!!...I haven't even read the thingy yet i was so excited!! happy days! :D
 
#8 ·
OMG THIS IS GREAT!
I feel so great that i could make a "sticky" thread for everyone.
You like me.....you really, really like me!! (name that movie)


I do hope this thread helps everyone though....seriously.
 
#15 ·
hay guys, the link to the VFAQ is nice, because for those of you who are new to DSMs and their many problems, this may fix one. I would suggest highly to attempt to read the link to terry's little guide as well, because you'll know whats going on better.

DONT try to adjust the biss on a 2g, to do it right im pretty sure you'll need a 'SCANTOOL' to hold the idle arms still while adjusting.

if you have a turbo, LOOK for boost leaks, and if you can, pressurize the intake to hear the hiiden leaks that can kill your boost and make idle rough.

If you add a high flowing intake and ditch the air box, that will usally lower your idle, and may cause stalling.

After i added my K&N, my revs drop low after reving her up, and almost stall, during startup as well, and when i back up i stall some times. Its most likly cause my engine is beging flooded with extra gas because i have a small leak in my intake and the new filter. I also get a bit of surging sometimes too!

Don't forget basic stuff like plugs and wires, they can cure some of the little dumb things in DSMs too. happy hunting!:D
 
#16 ·
I had terrible surge ever since I bought my car in march. I replaced just about everything under the hood including a new turbo. What it ended up being was that my throttle body was bad. So I got a new new one from a local shop and now my car runs great. My car would jerk violently when I was cruising and do all sorts or wierd things. Now they are all gone because of the new TB.
 
#17 ·
ERRATIC IDLE, HESITATION, STALLING

1995 Eagle Talon ESi, 118,500 - no modifications. Original owner.
THREE PROBLEMS: ERRATIC IDLE, HESITATION, STALLING. Intermittently while stopped, vehicle vibrates/starts to stall and stops - "check engine light" comes on. Car restarts immediately and will will run O.K. (light goes out). Intermittently while driving down road "check engine light" comes on and engine hestiates - will clear up or stall. Stalls intermittently while pulling away from complete stop and power steering fails (light comes on). Vehicle always restarts immediately and light goes out. Last time driven, car began abruptly bucking at 40 mph for a few seconds then resumed normal operation however when stopped in "park" again began to erratically idle (needle on rpm guage was zooming up and down). Upon turning off ignition and immediately restarting, car idled normally (about 900 rpms). The diagnostic trouble code has never set a code in the computer. I have replaced spark plugs, valve cover gasket, idle air control, timing belt, water pump, throttle body, and cleaned fuel injection. My mechanic and a local Dodge dealer are clueless since there is no DTC. I hope someone can help me as Daimler Chrysler has not responded to my inquiries and I am trying to sell this car. Thanks.
 
#19 ·
What about the plug wires (that cause alot of problems for me, so simple)? does the 420a use a distributer (i idin't think so but...)? Have you tried cleaning the throttle body? maybe its an intake leak ? anything you can remember doing befoer the problem poped up?
 
#21 ·
Erratic idle, hesitation, stalling

acidikjuice said:
What about the plug wires (that cause alot of problems for me, so simple)? does the 420a use a distributer (i idin't think so but...)? Have you tried cleaning the throttle body? maybe its an intake leak ? anything you can remember doing befoer the problem poped up?
Checking my service records reveals the spark plugs and wires were replaced in February 2000 at 83,030 miles. In November 2001 just the spark plugs were replaced at 111,414 miles (last time). At this time the mechanic found oil in the spark plug wells. Do you think the wires could be causing the problems? These problems really became noticeable in April 2001 at 101,887 miles and gradually worsened until in May 2002 at 118,314 miles (when the new throttle body was replaced) it was no longer safe to drive. The car has been sitting in the garage since then. The mechanic first cleaned the throttle body and when that didn't help, replaced it, which did not help either. I haven't driven it since then. The car only required minimal maintenance (OLF, tire rotation, air filter, brake replacement, etc.) until December 2000 when at 96,820 miles the transmission failed and was replaced. Can I check for an intake leak myself? This is really a nice car and its interior and exterior are in excellent condition. Thanks for your response and any assistance you can provide.
 
#23 ·
i'll bet its your ISC motor. when i cleaned my throttle body, my tps and isc went. i guess they dont like cleaning agents...try unpluging your ISC motor and i'll bet at least one of the problems disappears. mine has been unplugged for about a year, still problem-free.


Deep
 
#24 ·
oil in the wells ... on magnacores website (and theres a link to it from the VFAQ's too) it mentions this as the NUMBER ONE reason wires fail on our cars, OR any car that has deep,unvented plug wells. when the engine cools, hot gas will turn into a pool of liquid, and if the valvecover gasket is not sealing, oil can leak in threw there too. the liquids cause a arc hole to be made in the spark plug wire boot, and you won't get a good spark!

this most likly won't cause an idle surging, but i bet it won't help. go to www.importevolution.com and by some $50 wires (they ship fast too, plus its good bang for the buck) ... i mean, it can't hurt? :confused:
 
#25 ·
oops, the 95-99 NT wires only cost $30 ... and the wires are vary good, i got some and am vary pleased with accel wires (for the price, you can't them!).
 
#26 ·
Erratic idle, hesitation, stalling

Thanks! I have visited the Magnecor website and provided the info to my mechanic along with several other suggestions I have received from other Talon/Eclipse owners. My list: Adjust BISS, change spark plug wires and spark plugs (to ensure gaps have not widened), check for oil in spark plug well of valve cover, check for oil/water in spark plug connectors (hence possibly causing the arcing you mentioned), check valve cover and oil cap gaskets, idle speed switch, idle sensor switch, mass airflow sensor, torsional harmonic damper. The mechanic said he found nothing wrong but I don't think he made use of my list of
suggestions. He insisted the BISS was set by the factory and could not be adjusted however I have read many postings about how to adjust this screw and provided the step by step instructions to him. He was clueless because the computer set no DTC and actually hated to see me pull in with the Talon because he couldn't fix it (last time towed). This car has been serviced routinely by this mechanic since it was first bought. I was very disappointed in his attitude. The Dodge dealer relied on the computer also (still no code) and suggested a throttle body replacement which did not make any difference ($440.00 for part, labor and "diagnosis"). I am thinking of having the car towed to a Mitsubishi dealer whose technicians perhaps may have more knowledge of the complexities of these cars or maybe would be more receptive to these suggestions. I am sure these problems can easily be remedied and inexpensive to fix if I could locate "someone who cares." Nobody in our family is "mechanically inclined."

P.S. What is an "ISC motor"?
 
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