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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I wanted to modify the intake path on my '91 GSX, and spent a lot of time reading about the various ways to do so. I wasn't too thrilled about hacking the aircan to pieces, so I decided to try Brad Bauer's mod (via the faq-locator on intake modifications) which involved bolting a K&N filter directly to the stock lid of the aircan. Halfway through this mod, however, I tried to simply clamp the filter to the stock lid with the existing clamps and it held fine (all three of them), just as if the rest of the aircan had been there! I put that setup back into the car and noticed how much it flopped around without the support afforded by the aircan mounts. I noticed that one of the mounts (located right next to the coolant surplus reservior) was attached to the frame by two adjacent bolts, and the protusion of the mount was facing the front of the car (leaving the other end exposed for the filter to ram into, possibly damaging it. I removed the mount and simply turned it around, aiming the protrusion around the end of the filter, creating a safer and tighter "holding area." I drove the car around and it worked beautifully.
My question is, was simply clamping the filter onto the lid a good idea? Is there a reason I should invest in a possibly more sturdy K&N FIPK ($130; manufactured for the NT's but fit turbo cars with slight modification)?
 

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It's just as easy to hack the air can. It took me all of about twenty minutes to get mine cun open. I used a pair of tin snips and a file to get the edges smooth. Later I went over it w/a dremmel tool(I had to go out and buy one) I like it this way because the stock mounts hold the filter in place so there is no chance of damage. And it's free too ;^)

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Steve, 1991 Talon Tsi AWD
"Technology is the only substitute for cubic inches"
 

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I've heard similar stories about this set-up. You are getting alot of heated air with this set-up *IMO.* Seeking a solution myself and not wanting to pull in hot air, this is what I did:
I noticed there was about 3" between can lid and frame. I cut a hole in this area at the bottom of the can and ran 3" black pvc down to the bottom of engine area then I put
a 45 degree pvc elbow at the end. This gives me a ram air intake to the can. I also
sealed the can to the headlight area after removing the snorkel. The elbow is down low,
below the engine heat and faces the front of the car. I like this set-up alot, the seat of
the pants perf. gain was noticeable. I also had to fabricate a connector from the hole in
the aircan to the pvc.

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Rocky Mountain
'91 Talon Tsi AWD - modified
Live, Learn, Love, Bleed DSM...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, the reason I did not want to hack the aircan was so I could return to stock at anytime, particularly for picky emissions inspectors. I haven't run an open air filter element by an inspector before, and I don't know what to expect, so I'd rather be safe than sorry. Besides, I believe that turning the mount I mentioned around was a good solution in terms of potential damage. I was thinking about fabricating some sort of clamp to further secure things. Also, I might try getting rid of that slotted grill that was in front of the air horn.

Van, I have heard of the heated intake air issue with this mod, but I'm not sure that it's really that important when the car is in motion (FAST motion, heh heh). Have you tried it both ways (the potentially "heated" way vs. your custom pvc setup) and noticed a difference in performance?
 

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Honestly, no. But, *I* would not even try a set-up that would bring in hotter air than I know I could reasonably obtain. Cooler air makes more horsepower than hotter air. Cool air is more dense, just simple physics.
I do respect your concerns about inspections and hacking the can though. I was just suggesting a better solution *IMHO* to your situation. I think that alot of people have done exactly what you have done, with success. More air is better than hardly any air. No doubt about that, but keeping the air cool is important too.
BTW - You can hardly see my ram-air mod. With can still in place, it looks stock.

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Rocky Mountain
'91 Talon Tsi AWD - modified
Live, Learn, Love and Bleed DSM...
 

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Here, try this,

Drill out the rivets on the arican and take that snorkel off. Next remove that vent behind the headlight. Finally take off those colored sheet metal plates where the vent was. Only 2 or 3 bolts on each panel. (look behind the diver's headlight to see what it looks light without these pieces). Now you can try to get all the cool air posible from underneath the passenger headlight. The rest of the aircan acts as a heat shield. That's all I've got, haven't had the time or modivation to hack anymore. (but I do have a dremel tool! )

Zach
'92 Laser RS Turbo AWD
"RSX"
 

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Regarding the hot air under the hood: I used the TMO datalogger (monitors the air temp in the MAF) to check it out. Yes, when the car is stopped/idling the temperature goes up -- I think it went up to about 100F on a 80F day. However, as soon as the car starts moving the temperature dropped to pretty close to ambient outside temperature.

So yes, if you're racing from a stop you will be sucking in hot air for the first few seconds. You'll have to decide whether the increased airflow is worth it. Once you're moving the hot air isn't much of a factor.

Best thing is as someone said above, to shield the filter from some of the hot air. I've got a piece of foam that blocks the area around the filter from the rest of the engine compartment. this keeps it a bit cooler during that idle phase, but it is still warmer than ambient.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hmm, very interesting. I guess I'm not too worried about it, though, because I live in a pretty chilly area of the country. This morning I removed the grill that I mentioned in front of where the airhorn used to be -- the headlight is smack-dab in front of it! By looking at it (it's a limited view, though), I didn't see any real advantage to capitalizing on that "duct" unless it's nighttime and the headlight is up out of the way. Then again, I guess it wouldn't be an issue for the '92+ cars without the pop-up headlights.....
 
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