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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 1990 eagle tsi awd.. has 169,000 miles.. and even though my engine still starts right up and runs great it doesnt feel like it has near the power of my moms 90 talon tsi fwd, the engine was just rebuilt 6,000 miles ago..
I was wondering if buying one of those japanese exchange motors with less than 30,000 miles on it would be good.. and put some good forged 8.5/1 compression pistons, and some street grind cams in it.. and then workup from there on the exhaust and such.. I even run premium fuel and have a gutted air box and [email protected] filter, compared to my moms only running plain unleaded and stock air filter non gutted and hers feels like it would waste me.. or do all AWD's feel that way? I was wondering what would it cost for one of them japanese motors anyways? the used ones.. my upper intercooler hose it cracked up also doesnt look like it is all the way through though.. Also would it hurt the turbo if a little bit a grime basically dirty oil got on the side of the intake wall of the turbo.. just a hint? please say no.. I dont think it could since the inside of the intake hoses are kinda greasy... if it is I am planning on buying a bigger turbo anyways some day.. thanks
 

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I don't know about the Jap motors. But, ANY CRACK in ANY hose should be SUSPECT! Do you have a real boost gauge? That would let you know if you're losing any boost. I would fix the cracked hose (just because it's cracked) and see if there's a difference.

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'91 Talon Tsi AWD
 

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from my experiance fwd cars do feel faster than awd's because a fwd will pull and spin where as a fast awd is smooth and feels like it's on rails(no torque steer,spin etc...).
but that doesn't mean there isn't something wrong with your car. i'd have someone that know's dsm's check it out.
as far as those "jap spec" engines i don't think it would be worth it if you are gonna build it(pistons, rods, cams, etc). i do know that they are a direct drop in for 1g's though, but don't know much else about them except that they have a integra gsr(sorry guys)type intake manifold with butterflies that open to help top end flow.

bill

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95 tsi-awd
91 tsi-fwd
95 civic turbo
82 gti
 

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The FWD cars have always felt faster to me than the AWD cars. That being said anything that looks out of the ordinary like cracked hoses should be replaced. If the car hasn't had a hose inspection lately that would be one of the first things I would do.
Oil in the intake path is normal b/c of the breather hose that runs from the valve cover to the accordian turbo inlent. This hose dumps hot oil vapors directly into the intake stream. As soon as I bought my 99 Eclipse, the first thing I bought was a K and N breather to block off this hideous mode of
emissions controls so I wouldn't have to deal with a clogged intercooler and oily hoses/turbos later on. It would be a good idea to inspect your intercooler as well as all intake hoses, then block off that breather hose! If you haven't had your catalytic converter and your spark plug wires checked, do that too. An old cat-con can sometimes becomed clogged which starts robbing performance. Good luck!

Jesse
 

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AWDTurbo, Change that hose, even if it looks like it's not all the way through it may still leak under pressure, what's the last time you've changed your spark plugs? I recommend NGKPB7ES, if your car has been running like that since the rebuild I would take your car to ssome good shop and check if your timing (belt) is set right also, check your ignition timing - if it's retarded even 5 deg it would result in loss of power, -- have you ran some bad gas lately? or really overboosted your dsm? if yes then your ECU might be set in the "safe" mode, reset your ECU by disconnecting your negative from battery for about a minute or
so - Let me know if any of this worked out for you - if not we'll try something else, Japanese engine isn't relly a great idea since they are not that much better and you would have to go through alot of mods before you could get it in your Tsi but if you need to know more about that call TAD motorsports in Lake Zurich IL or visit their web site www.TadMotorsports.com
Good Luck!
MIke.
RalliArt
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
oh yea, the engine in my moms car was rebuilt 6,000 miles ago.. sorry about that mine still has 169,000.. a am gonna go try and replace that hose today.. does anyone know what I should do about a motor should I just rebuild mine or what? what would it cost to do that. thanks again
 

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My engine has 179000 miles on it, and Im starting a rebuild on Sat. I was going to buy one of those J-Spec motors. I found one for $850 plus shipping, from Wantabe motors ( the # is in the back of Turbo mag). BUt I decided if I was going to put in defferent pistons and rings and all that good stuff, I was better off just rebuilding the engine I have. The Jspec motors are used, and the sellers dont really know the mileage, they can only estimate.
If you wanna go with forged pistons, youre gonna have to take apart the engine anyway, whether it yours or the jspec. So, I say rebuild yours, and unless youre gonna go race only, get 2g pistons.

-Dave
 

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About $800 for all the parts and $600 for the machine work. Im doing the labor myself, but thats where youd run into the biggest expense, probably. If you do it yourself, it should cost about $1400- $1600, depending on if you replace all the internals or if you reuse some.

But then you have a zero mileage engine, which is better than a used engine anyday.

-Dave
 

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Well, there is a lot to do when rebuilding an engine, so Ill go in steps:

1. Parts: Since your engine has very high mileage, it is a good idea to replace all the external parts. Timing belt, timing belt tensioner, t belt ten. pulley, t belt idler pulley, water pump, oil pump, etc. You should also replace all the accessory belts and all the hoses, including vaccuum lines. Since you will have the engine apart, it would be a good time to remove the balance shafts. Now for the internals. You should replace the pistons and rings. Your crank and rods, if still good, can be machined and reused. You will need to replace the main and rod bearings. You should also replace the head studs, main studs, and rod bolts, with either new OE stuff, or ARP stuff. In the head, the cams can possibly be reused if they are not worn. The valves and springs can also be reused, if still in good condition. You will also need a complete engine gasket set.

2. Machine work: Your parts will need to be machined in a machine shop. The block needs to be checked for cracks, and bored. The head needs to be checked also and you will need a valve job. The rods have to be checked for straightness and can be shotpeened for added strength. The crank journals can be reground or polished, depending on how bad it is. If you have some extra money, you might want to have the head ported, or gat a 3- angle valve job for performance gains.

3. Disassembly and reassembly: If you do the work yourself, you will save a lot of money. But thats not always feasable. I am lucky, because I have access to a shop that will make this a lot easier, but if you have to do it in your driveway, it can be a pain in the ass. If you do have the work done by someone else, ask around about the shop you choose, and make sure they do good work.

To everyone else, if I have missed something, which I probably have, or if something is incorrect, please correct me.

-Dave
 
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