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Discussion Starter #1
ok i set crank so its at TDC and then the cams are off also though. if i move the crank will i be able to move the cams more so that they feel like they are centered? I tried to move the exhaust and intake over so that they match notches but it wont stay in that position. So if i move the crank just a small bit...will i be able to move the cams to align up so they stay in place?

Ex. Cam marks are both a bit higher than the head on the engine...is it supposto be centered with the center of the cam bolts or the top where the dowel pins are? so if i simply move the crank pully a bit then will i beable to align the cams like i said before?

Where the cams are stopped right now...the crank is almost exactually TDC (or matching the timing marks) but this could be out of phase correct? if i rotate it one way or another, will i be able to get the cams even with the top of the head?

Thanks and this IS my first timing belt job! I love DSM's!!!

Sorry for posting this but i searched and didn't find anything that has to do exactually with what i posted...
 

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i recomend getting something to hold the cams in place instead. thick wire?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
so I dont worry about where the crank is as long as it lines up to its mark and i checked to see if the piston #1 is almost at exact TDC. Then I use wire to hold the cams in place exactually even to the head even if i have to force them there a bit. But its all good as long as everything seems aligned. Does this sound correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Also one more thing...when i looked at the cam bolts they look like they were taken off before. also they are marked intake and exhaust. So this shows that they were before for whatever reason. Would this make any difference? Please help me anybody!!!!

dsmturbo2: I really like that bumper on the front of your dsm. its looks sharp! What kind is it? Thanks for your help
 

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Just make sure the # 1 piston is at TDC. Then worry about lining everything else up perfectly when your actually putting the belt on. I believe the order is...Crank pully...oil pump....intake cam...exhaust. Remember that the exhaust cam sometimes slips a tooth counter clockwise when your fitting it on.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
but see, when it comes to the cams...they dont want to stay in place. i have to hold them there. should it be like that? i even removed the spark plugs for less compression. any ideas?
 

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I believe in the Chilton's guide ( or maybe the Vfaq ) they use alligator clips to keep the cams on the correct timing with the belt.
 

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Lucky13 said:
I believe in the Chilton's guide ( or maybe the Vfaq ) they use alligator clips to keep the cams on the correct timing with the belt.
Yeah go to Satples or Office depot and get a handfull of those black binder clips. Once you wrap the belt around the cams and get them aligned clip the belt in place and they will stay put.
 

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Also you can use the plastic zip ties. Put on on both sides of the top spoke on the cam sprocket, and pull it tight. The belt will stay in the right place.

I am working on my first timing belt job right now and that has helped me out a little bit. The gator clip fell off :(

What I didnt understand is how do you get the belt loose to get it on the exhuast cam sprocket.

As of right now all I did was a 1/4 turn counter clockwise then pulled of the exhuast side of the timing belt. Now I cant get it back on.

Also should I check tdc with a screw driver, or is that just for checking without taking the lower inner cover off?
 

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If you have the TB tensioner compressed/off and the TB pulley loose I believe it should be snug, but do'able.

The screw driver trick is just another check to be sure your at TDC on #1 piston. I can't imagine how you'd line the 4 marks up w/o taking the lower inner cover off....unless the engine wasn't in the car. :)
 

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I have a pair of small self adjusting vise grips. I use one on the intake cam sprocket and one on the exhaust to hold the belt in place while adjusting tension. Both cams may have some valve spring tension on them and want to turn by themselves when turned to align with their timing marks (more so the exhaust cam).

So get the bottom marks lined up, slip on the belt there, turn each of the cams till they align and slip on the belt there and clip in place. Now, if everything looks right you are ready to start adjusting the hydraulic tensioner for the right rod protrusion.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the help everybody! I think i got it on finally!!! Anyways now its time for the tensioner.. any tips? I dont have the special tool to do it with for the pully. Thanks

also i marked the belt before i took it off and it was off by one tooth. that sucks!! Are the cam marks on the outside supposto be exactually even with the head and go in a straight line into the center of the cam bolts? Thanks
 

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I just did a rebuild and with it a t-belt. You want your cam sprocket marks at 3 and 9 o'clock with the crank at top dead center and your oil pump shaft in phase. The exhaust sprocket will not want to quite line up due to the valve springs compressing, but what you do is take a wrench and turn the exhaust cam so it's one tooth past or below 3 o'clock, put the belt around the sprocket(already around the intake), and when the belt is in place release tension on the wrench. the valve springs will force the sprocket right into the 3 o'clock position. This is explained in great detail with photos in VFAQ.
 
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