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Lazylaser’s DSM Journey 97 Talon

96215 Views 287 Replies 59 Participants Last post by  lazylaser
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Lazylaser’s DSM journey
I don’t have enough posts for the member’s projects section. Although I do way more searching than posting.
I started with a 91 fwd Plymouth Laser that I bought at a police auction for about $680. It was more of a go-cart than a car. In the beginning I had some trouble getting it to make the power that I was looking for. After finding the cams were 180* out, all the upgrades that were piled on the car really Woke up. These big power gains now created traction issues that even, polyurethane mounts , suspension, an LSD and good rubber couldn’t solve.

The TRE (team rip) transmission was a pile of shit from the time I got it, it ended up being the weakest link and the LSD exploded on the highway.

Luckily I was prepared; I had already Bought an AWD 97 talon tsi that was being prepped for a heart transplant.

Whoever owned the car before me slapped a boost controller and an evo 16g on the car and Knocked the rod bearings into the bottom of the oil pan.
After about a month of wrenching on the car, my friends and I transformed it into the car I wanted,


The mr2 is my younger brothers’ and just as much work went into his toyota

98,000 talon tsi,
6-bolt swap, balance shafts removed, ARP rodbolts, headstuds, and turbo bolts, b/c 272’s cams and springs and titanium retainers
dsmlink, gm 3” maf and translator
slowboy fmic and piping, 63mm throttle body, greddy rs bov
pte 780cc injectors, aeromotive afpr, walbro Hp 255 and 6an from tank to rail.
Ebay 3” turboback stainless steel exhaust
Aem uego w/b, autometer C2 boost, egt, fuel pressure and oil pressure
Act2600 and fidenza aluminum flywheel.
Evo16g that I spent days porting, 38mm w/g with opendump, sbr cast manifold and 2g ported o2
Magnacore wires and ngk plugs
And other things like s.s. clutch and brake lines and a 2600cfm fan, a lot of things have been relocated (like the battery) or removed (like the A/C) , I’m sure I’m forgetting other stuff.
Future plans are, coilovers, big brakes and meth injection.
BIG THANKS GOES OUT TO Asmodeus of demonmotorworks, who turned many wrenches on this project , and Chaz Mance who did a lot of the wiring.
See everyone at the shootout
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Yeah, It seems that was a fleeting thought of mine. I like my Talon, I like auto x and thought maybe I could make both work together. I see that I won't be happy with de-modifying the talon back far enough to be competitive. I'll just make the talon the way I had planned out originally then go from there, enjoying the car even if I don't come in 1st at anything. Thanks for the input.
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Spliced in the GM IAT, used heat shrink over the solder & electrical tape.



Put the IAT in place out of the way, there was some type of red goo on the threads so I didn't use any Teflon tape. eventually I'll get a BLT in there.




With all the sensors in place I went into ecmlink and chose the inputs, I know that I could have done screenshots but I was holding my camera, I went off of memory for the wideband and map sensor. If its not right I'll trace the wiring back to where it got spiced in.



Make sure you save the pin assignments or they won't be there the next time.



So now I had to fill the gap left by the GM maf and translator.

Luckily I had a long section of coupler stashed away that fit exactly.



I took a peak at the speed density maps and realized that I don't know anything about this type of "cell" tuning.

Good thing there are demos on ECM's site.
http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos.php?osCsid=3a0c0od7nhuc4mtgmf1jtopia1



Well, the car was back together....so...


I gave it a jump, and for the 1st time since nov/dec 2010 my talon ran. I let it idle for about 1 minute then it kind of puttered out and died. I didn't restart it. I need another battery, but no way am I shelling out the cash for a redtop again until this car is done.

A lot I want to do, but I need to learn v3 and I kind of just want to drive it as is until winter. Still have a lot to do before I can even think of putting this in the road.
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Nice to see you getting the car on the road again. The first place you need to drive is to a paint booth! I can't believe that paint went bad so fast.

As for your optima I thought you could bring those things back to life with a deep cycle charge? Idk for sure but its something to look into.
Nice to see you getting the car on the road again. The first place you need to drive is to a paint booth! I can't believe that paint went bad so fast.

As for your optima I thought you could bring those things back to life with a deep cycle charge? Idk for sure but its something to look into.
I'm weighing out the options on paint. But the car needs bodywork, I might undertake the work down the road but for now I'm unintentionally a rat-car/rod.

Looked into the optima charging at your suggestion and came up with some info.

The problem with deeply discharged optima type batteries is that most battery chargers can not recognize the battery is present when the voltage is less than 4 and thus doesn't go into the charging mode.

When an optima battery won't charge by ordinary means, simply connect a second, well-charged battery (12.4 volts or better) in parallel with the dead unit - positive to positive, negative to negative. Then connect the charger to the pair. This will in effect trick the charger into delivering the necessary current to the discharged battery. Using this method, we brought several deep-discharged batteries back to life.
That was from hot rod magazine.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/general/hrdp_1009_how_to_charge_a_agm_battery/

And this from and Optima rep.

The parallel charging technique described http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIoaL3DWWEg

The threshold for recognizing a battery varies from charger to charger, so we generally suggest charging the deeply-discharged battery above 10.5 volts before disconnecting the healthy battery. Since the batteries are wired in parallel, it doesn’t make a difference how they are connected, although it might be easier to wire the deeply-discharged battery in the middle. That way, when it does reach an appropriate voltage level, you can just disconnect the healthy battery and continue charging the deeply-discharged battery.

The key to long battery life (regardless of brand), is to make sure your battery is always maintained with at least 12.4 volts, whenever possible. When batteries are discharged below that level, sulfation begins to diminish both performance and lifespan. That makes a battery tender or maintainer an excellent investment for any vehicle that is not driven daily.

Most alternators are designed to maintain batteries, not recharge deeply-discharged batteries. If a battery is discharged to the point where it needs a jump, we recommend fully recharging the battery with a battery charger as soon as possible. Relying on an alternator to recharge a deeply-discharged battery can lead to a cycle of dead batteries and jump-starts, until either the battery or alternator fails. We do not recommend using high-amp units, as they can “cook” a battery. For regular charging, we recommend a maximum of 10 amps at 13.8 to 15 volts.

If you have any questions about our batteries, please don’t hesitate to ask.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries
Awesome to see your getting it back on the road again.
I need to do the same!
Today I decided to do more tweaking with ecmlink to see if I was really understanding the ecmlink demo videos I have been watching. I let the car idle for about 40 minutes while I made my changes.

If I did things right... all it took was about 120ms of dead time adjustment and I had my LTFT Lo within 1%.
I was not sure what to do. At first I thought about just getting the car on the road for summer. But there was a small oil leak from the oil filter housing, so that rules out any trips to the track until that is fixed.

The rust needs addressed, I forgot where most of the wires go or where I spliced what into where. Also need to get a battery box for the battery location. Just a good bit I want to do yet to the car. So I'm thinking I just tear into it and get the car where I want it. That will mean another year of being down but... What is the alternative? Maybe it won't be so bad and I'll be looking at spring 2014.
Just picked up two 100% rust free DSM doors. Some guy brought them up from the south.


These are not from a 97 talon like I need, I know that for sure. They do have the dsm tag so it should just be a matter of drilling and/or filling holes for the trim locations. Using this quote as reference.
IROCavenger
:
Also for future reference all 95 - 99 Eclipse & Talon doors will interchange. with the only difference being the holes drilled for the side spears on 97 & 98 Talons, and lower holes drilled for the 95-99 GS GST GSX & 95 96 TSi TSi AWD door skirt caps. as mentioned above.

You have manual windows and power windows. Also the doors off 95 - 2000 AVENGERS will fit but you will need to change the door glass and mirrors. Avengers 95 & 96 the body door edge guard moldings are stick on and can be peeled off easily, on 97-2K the door edge guard side moulding are plastic riveted on and when removed will need to fill the holes.

The interior trim panels will all inter change with power windows. All Manual trim panels will fit manuals.

95-99 Eclipse Base & RS has no side molding nor side skirts
95-96 Eclipse GS GST GSX has side skirts with door caps 1st design
97-99 Eclipse GS GST GSX has side skirts with door caps 2nd design

97 & 98 Base Talons had NO door spears or side skirts.
97 & 98 Talons had door spears on ESi TSi TSi AWD and no lower side skirts.
95 & 96 Talons had no door spears or door guard moldings or skirts
95 & 96 Talon TSi TSi AWD had lower twisty door caps with side skirts.
Also they are set up for manual windows and mine are auto so I'll need to be switching EVERYTHING over.
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Good find! Pulling everything out of the doors is pretty easy. Its getting everything back in that is the bitch. I'm having a rough time getting my doors to get perfectly lined up.
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Video of her running after 3 years of sitting.
The fan is SO loud. Everything seemed to be in working order.


And here it is a couple hours later.


What spurred this was that I Found that the 1st gen Slowboy racing cast manifold had broken while on the car in three places and decided it was time to start mocking up the HX35.





Also never use ARP stainless steel turbo bolts in a cast turbine housing. They WILL seize and break.
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The antisieze that FP sells along with OEM bolts and they come out like butter FYI. Use the OEM concave washers to keep the assembly under tension and they never come loose.
The antisieze that FP sells along with OEM bolts and they come out like butter FYI. Use the OEM concave washers to keep the assembly under tension and they never come loose.
I know how true that is, unfortunately. I learned about the importance of those washers and OEM bolts after the arp's were in place.

I hit another little roadblock, from putting the car on hold. I’m looking for this part.

Shane (spoolin69) made it for me, it was a custom part and now I need it to complete my turbo build. Its a flange and gasket that bolt to the turbine housing allowing me to make the o2 to downpipe section of the exhaust.

I’m ready to move forward and can’t find it. Getting nervous.
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Car sounded great in the vid man, nice to see you jumping back in. GL on the build, I'll be following for sure!
I think that I have another flange and gasket in my basement, I will check tonight.
Have you received your package??
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I think that I have another flange and gasket in my basement, I will check tonight.
Thanks!
My gift from Shane.



After unboxing the awesome S.S. flange & gasket I went to work on getting the turbo on this car.

I got lucky and found my Turbonetics cast t3 manifold. Got it cleaned up by tapping the threads, put anti-seize in the holes...



Then realized I don't have any bolts to mount the turbine housing to the manifold. Without this I can't really set the height to mock up the oil drain line or the o2 housing. That would be if I could find the whole 02 housing I used to have. I spent all of Saturday and part of Sunday looking for it.


Wherever it is I bet its right next to the original spoolin’ flange. I don’t know where this stuff walked off to.




So right now this is where I’m at until I can locate more of my stuff.
:(
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I think that I have another flange and gasket in my basement, I will check tonight.
I wish my gaskets were in your basement....
Thanks!
My gift from Shane.



After unboxing the awesome S.S. flange & gasket I went to work on getting the turbo on this car.

I got lucky and found my Turbonetics cast t3 manifold. Got it cleaned up by tapping the threads, put anti-seize in the holes...



Then realized I don't have any bolts to mount the turbine housing to the manifold. Without this I can't really set the height to mock up the oil drain line or the o2 housing. That would be if I could find the whole 02 housing I used to have. I spent all of Saturday and part of Sunday looking for it.


Wherever it is I bet its right next to the original spoolin’ flange. I don’t know where this stuff walked off to.




So right now this is where I’m at until I can locate more of my stuff.
:(
Got some really nice stainless ARP header bolts to do mine, you can get them in a bunch of lenghts. Only real issue with them is to bolt the turbo to the manifold first then put it in together. You might lose a knuckle doing it on the car.
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Right now I'm trying to decide between 2ga Talon side skirts, and 2gb eclipse side skirts.

Sorry this image is so small, I wish I was sent a better picture.


or



I'm looking @ $255 for the twisties and $300 for the eclipse. So I think its may just come down to which ever has the most intact mounts and who can salvage the most hardware.

You guys have any thoughts?
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Talon for sure. There is a great pic in the cars for sale section. Xavier's car.
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