DSMTalk Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,093 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am interested in doing this big 3 or magic 3 upgrade. I tried following the wire and I got this:
From the alternator the wire runs under the radiator to under the fuse box. Than from the fuse box 2 white wires with ring terminals hook to the battery (Which is a joke if this is what charges my battery) Than from the positive post a big red wire runs to the starter. On the negative side of the battery theres 2 wires. One short to the firewall and one long hooked to the transmission/engine block.
What I will replace is the two grounds and the alternator charging wire (3)
My question is with the charging wire.
1) Do I replace the wire from the alternator or can I add to it making it 2 wires?
2) From the alternator do I run it straight to the positive on the battery? (if I add another wire)I have dual posts or I can replace the stock terminal.
3) What guage is best? (I have read people using 1/0 or 0 awg

I thought if I add another wire than I won't have to modify anything to get the new wire to hook to the fuse box and the positive battery post)
I want to try this first since its the cheapest. Than maybe an Optima battery (Yellow top) and finally either a HO alternator from Alterstart or a 90amp Canada spec alternator.
Any help would be appreciated
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,152 Posts
The alternator line goes to the fuse box and is fused at 100amps. It's a very good idea to have this fuse, but it's definitely the weakest link. The best thing to do is run direct to the battery, and fuse the alt to batt+ for a little bit over what your alt is rated at (But less than what the wiring is rated at).

The white wires are for all of the electronics in the car.

The big red wire is just for the starter, it's only used when cranking.

You've got it...the two grounds are two of your big 3, the alt is the third.

To answer your questions:
1) You cant' have too much wiring, so if you can leave what's already there then I would. I've know some guys who will run a pair of 1/0 gauge for real serious car audio applications. To think of it another way, you could run four 10 gauge wires and it would be the same as using one 4 gauge wire. I used 1/0 which for my application is overkill, but I still left the stock wiring in place.

2) Yes, run it direct and fuse it.

3) If you're just upgrading stock wiring then 1/0 will probably be way more than you need. 4 guage would probably be more than enough.

As far as the battery goes, it's doesn't actually produce energy, it just stores it. The alternator actually makes the juice, and that's where it really counts. The 90 amp is a nice upgrade for stock, and I wouldn't worry about a HO unless you've got a serious stereo.

It sounds like you've got this figured out, but a few pics of my install are here if it helps:
http://home.comcast.net/~saramasters/performance.htm#battery
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,093 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
What did you use to fuse it? I think I'm just going to use a 100 amp fuse. What did you use?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,093 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I found it. I'm going to use an INLINE ANL FUSE HOLDER. The one I found has a 150 amp fuse. Will that be enough for a 2 AWG wire. I figure go up one guage from 4AWG.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
drcustom said:
To answer your questions:
1) You cant' have too much wiring, so if you can leave what's already there then I would. I've know some guys who will run a pair of 1/0 gauge for real serious car audio applications. To think of it another way, you could run four 10 gauge wires and it would be the same as using one 4 gauge wire. I used 1/0 which for my application is overkill, but I still left the stock wiring in place.
Actually (if you are talking about using insulated wire) if you took 4 10awg wire you dont end up with a 4awg wire...you end up with 10awg wire twisted around its self. you cant do that. even though you are using multi wires the ampacity rating of the wire does not change. you will end up melting the wire.
so dont try it, well unless you strip the insul off the wire and wrap the bare copper around its self, and reinsulate it. then it would work. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,152 Posts
I wrote this yesterday but forgot to send it. It sounds like you've got it figured out, but I figured it couldn't hurt to send.

I used a AGU / 5AG barrel fuse like this one:
http://www.streetwires.com/products/inLineFuseHold/AGUholders.cfm

They're pretty standard in car audio kits (you can get a whole kit for $20 at walmart), but it's almost impossible to find the fuses in anything above 80A. I drillled out a 4 gauge holder to accept the 1/0 guage, and then soldered it in place.

The best/easiest thing for larger gauge/higher amperage is something like a maxi-fuse / ANL / wafer fuse, or circuit breaker. The ANL fuses are available in way more sizes, but they do cost a little more. I've also seen the circuit breakers for surprisingly cheap but I never really used them so can't say much. I would also expect them to have more resistance than a fuse but I'm really not sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,152 Posts
BLCKOUT92 said:
Actually (if you are talking about using insulated wire) if you took 4 10awg wire you dont end up with a 4awg wire...you end up with 10awg wire twisted around its self. you cant do that. even though you are using multi wires the ampacity rating of the wire does not change. you will end up melting the wire.
so dont try it, well unless you strip the insul off the wire and wrap the bare copper around its self, and reinsulate it. then it would work. :)
Almost ;)

(4) 10 gauge wires will carry as much current as (1) 4 gauge. The current will divide itself evenly among all wires. Think of it this way...you could take a 4 gauge wire and seperate each individual strand of wire and it would still carry just as much current...whether or not they're touching each other won't make a difference, but then instead of using one big fuse you would have to fuse each strand individually (for whatever fraction of an amp they'd be good for). All the strands together would still add up to the capacity of 4 gauge, but each one can only cary a small amount. If you kept all of the ends connected, then the total capacity would still be the same.

Keping the wires seperate (insulated or not) you just have to fuse each wire for what it can take. If you fused each 10 gauge wire for that wires capacity, then you wouldn't have any problems...on the same hand, instead of using one 150 amp fuse, you could split the wire and use two 75 amp fuses.

Here's an awesome website that really does a great job of explaining this (especially the circular mills section...the actually compare 10 to 4 gauge):
http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,093 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I bought an entire setup for $15 on Ebay. A water proof Gold plated ANL fuse holder complete wiith a 150 amp fuse. (Really nice looking piece, long barrel like the one you used Drcustom but ANL) Thats why I asked if it would be enough. I researched and Everything Drcustom stated is correct in respect to wires and fusing each part. With the 2ga wire the maximum recommended fuse was 200amps. It was stated to go a little below that so 150amps is fine. I think I'm going to leave everything like how it is stock and add my new 2ga wire to my side post with a lug. Walmart sells the adapter. That way its a clean install and I don't have to even touch the stock wiring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,093 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Well I finally got around to installing the wire upgrade. I Bought the 2Ga wire from Walmart. Like $8 each. I bought 2 51" packs. I combined the two with a nut and bolt with washers than wraped it all up with Black electrical tape. That made my wire measure 102" long. I just un screwed the bolt on the alternater and placed the new wire on top of the original wire. Placed the bolt back. Ran it under the radiator and zip tied it to a wire loom that runs along under the radiator. (Not the one that runs in between the radiator and the condensor that harbors the original Alt wire.) This will keep that wire cool. I hooked the 150A fuse I got from Ebay and just screwed it to the side post of my dual post battery. I did not modify the original stock wiring. Very easy install. Took less than an hour and I took my time making it look real neat. I also re-did the original grounds; sanding down the paint to provide maximum contact on frame. Definatly an improvement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,152 Posts
tarantula said:
Definatly an improvement.
For anyone looking to upgrade thier wiring, I just wanted to follow up on this. At just over say 1000 rpms, where the alternator is actually providing power instead of my beat up battery, I can go from having no lights to high beams and the whine on my fuel pump doesn't change.

At idle I can hear the fuel pump difference when the highbeams come on, but I can't notice a change in the instrument cluster lights (I could before I did this).

Headlights definitely seem brighter, and I feel like I've got a lot over overhead left with the alternator...before it always seemed like it wasn't big enough.

Just wanted to post this info since I haven't seen anything that says what kind of noticeable difference this makes.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
379 Posts
i was hoping that one of you guys could post pics of your actual setup. (the comcast link did not work...)

Thanks,

-Neal
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,152 Posts
Ya we closed that account, so now I've got a bunch of dead links out there! I saved the site though so I'll get the pics back up as soon as I can.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,152 Posts
Not only did we decide to get the account back, I was able to get the site back up using the same pages. The above link should work now. Let me know if you have any questions or want to see more pics and I'll keep it updated.




turboneal said:
thanks man, i would really appreciate it.

-Neal
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
379 Posts
drcustom said:
Not only did we decide to get the account back, I was able to get the site back up using the same pages. The above link should work now. Let me know if you have any questions or want to see more pics and I'll keep it updated.

Thanks, bro. when i get back to the states i am going to try to save the wiring info on my PC. that is an EXCELLENT writeup. you should repost the wiring part on dsmtalk and the mods should make it a sticky as far as i am concerned. (i have had more electric/ wiring issues than anything else with my 2Gs. to me it is the cars biggest weakness.)

-Neal

PS- the only thing it is missing is the final pic of the battery in the trunk... :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,152 Posts
Thanks! I'm actually thinking of selling this car now, so once I get it all cleaned up I'll post pics of the battery. If I don't post back here in about a week remind me about the battery so I can get more pics.

Thanks,
Dan
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top