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What is the likely issue with a clutch that won’t actuate when the pedal feels like it has no back pressure, the slave doesn’t seem to move any fluid while the bleed screw is completely removed, and the reserve was completely full when checked?

Have a car that has been sitting for awhile, and AFAIK the system worked correctly when parked.

To be clear, it Doesn't even allow me to bleed the hydraulic system with full vacuum applied to the slave bleed port with a barb fitting.

Can I include any details that would help diagnose what the underlying issue might be, and what to check or try to repair the existing system if possible?

This is for a 97 Eclipse with a 420A engine if that has any bearing on what might be the issue.

TIA!
 

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Only 2 things it can be. The master or slave and if you're saying no fluid is coming out of the slave even with the bleeder removed that means the master is most likely not pushing any. Probably bad seals from sitting...especially if a high mile car. Usually when one goes bad you change em both anyway since you have to empty the system of fluid and bleed. I got my master and slave at advance auto using their online coupon codes and picked up in store. If you can find them locally for around 60-70 for the pair its better because if the units have a lifetime warranty you dont want to have to deal with an online retailer. No shipping charges either that way. I went for new vs remanufactured. (no core charges to deal with either for new).

Change the master, slave, hydraulic hose, and the reservoir to master hose. DO NOT use regular fuel line or rubber hose for master to reservoir. Brake fluid will eat it! Use the correct hose. Here's where I got my master to reservoir hose from from a few years ago. Seller is still active. Order by the foot. Remember to enter how many feet or you'll only get 1. Think I ordered 2 ft. Measure to be sure. REMOTE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR HOSE, 3/8" ID - Sold by the Foot, see description | eBay

For the the hydraulic hose. I used part number H38946 Dorman brand. Found that on eBay as well. Seller no longer active but you can find that easily for around $20 or less.

Bleeding is fuuuunnnn since there are 2 parts involved. Its hard to bench bleed the master since the reservoir is not attached as with a brake master cylinder. Install the new master and connect to the reservoir hose. Then bleed as you would a master cylinder. Use a piece of steel brake line or bleeder kit with plastic attachment and vinyl hose f you find an attachment to fit then feed back into the reservoir and bleed same as a brake master until no bubbles. SLOW STEADY PUSH down on the clutch when bleeding. NO Pumping to avoid creating foam /bubbles. After bleeding, remove the bleeder line from the master output port and connect the master to the slave line. I wouldnt try to push fluid from master to slave bcus you might end up with air in the slave line or master cyl. again as the pedal lifts. Just open the bleeder on the slave and let the fluid run in on its own. It'll take a while but not too long. Keep an eye on the master reservoir so it doesnt run out of fluid or you'll have air in it again and have to start over. Once you see fluid out of the slave bleeder close the bleeder screw and attach a clear vinyl hose to it running into a glass jar with fluid so you can see if there are any bubbles.have an assistant push on the clutch slowly and hold the pedal it as you open the slave bleeder...then close the bleeder screw after the pedal has bottomed out. Same as bleeding the master. Make sure assistant DOESNT pump the clutch to avoid producing bubbles. Bleed a few times until no bubbles and you should be good to go.

Good luck! Dave.
 

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HMMM No edit button. Ok one thing to change/add. You might want to attach the vinyl hose to the slave bleeder screw and into an empty glass jar ...BEFORE opening the screw. Fluid isnt gonna go running everywhere bcus itll take time to drain down from the master BUT once it starts to flow its better to flow thru the hose into the jar rather than on the floor or back down the slave cylinder onto your transmission! I'd say start with an empty jar so you can see when theres some fluid flowing into it. Fluid out the bleeder means the slave has filled up and you wont know that if you start with a jar that has any fluid in it. Watch the master reservoir too. Once it gets half empty add some more fluid so it doesnt run dry as the slave is filling by gravity. I don't remember how long that takes. 10 20 minutes? Longer? Once you see fluid in the jar the slave has filled and you can start bleeding. Top off the master cylinder reservoir first (Dont overfill. Remember the rubber gasket underneath. Dont want brake fluid in your engine bay due to overflow when you screw that lid back on later! It eats paint)! ADD some fresh brake fluid to the glass jar before bleeding the slave and make sure the vinyl hose is submerged so you can look for bubbles to stop during the bleeding process. Once bubbles stop...tighten the slave bleeder screw and you should be good to go! Ok...I THINK thats it!
 
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