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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright, i looked in the book about the head torque. It says to torque all bolts down in order, then loosen and retighten in order and 90 degrees, and 90 degrees. Does anybody know if this is true, or if anyone actually did this. Also keep in mind i have a mitsu mls gasket and an o-ringed deck on my head. i don't want to crush the o-rings and the gasket. And i have arp's.
 

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Yes that is the torque sequence. I forget the original torque value though.
 

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No leaks, the two stages of 90* is WAYYYY more torque than your original stage.
 

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Are you using stock head studs or arp? If they are the stockers make sure they are brand new. You cant reuse stock headstuds in a 2g.
 

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For sure, I am so used to DSMrs that I didn't even think to ask that.
Oh and heads up on rule #7, if you don't the mods will rip you a new one.
 

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Whoa...ARP's are different. They should be torqued to 85-90ft lbs in sequences of 30, 60, and 85/90 with the included moly. Then heat cycle them and retorque as necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
How much different? Shouldn't one follow the book? And what do you mean heat cycle? Don't freak me out now, i almost put the head on tonight. Let me know as soon as possible. PLEASE!!!
 

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barcelona-GSX said:
How much different? Shouldn't one follow the book? And what do you mean heat cycle? Don't freak me out now, i almost put the head on tonight. Let me know as soon as possible. PLEASE!!!
Normally you would but in the 2g case you dont since in the torque sequence for the stock 2g headstuds are for torque-to-yield bolts and ARP's are not.

Just torque them down in the correct sequence to:

30ft lbs
60ft lbs
85 or 90ft lbs
(If the studs are new I usually do this about 3x. Torque, loosen and retorque.)


Then you good to go. For heat cycling it just start the car up and let it warm up. Check your torque specs again after the engine as been fully warmed up and make sure they are still correct. After that your good to go.
 

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You don't really have to retorque after a heat cycle. For ARP if they are new, you tighten in sequence than loosen in sequence 5 times. Torque it down to 85-90ft/lbs with the supplied moly lube every time. Do not lube the block threads only the nut threads.
Its alot of work but this will ensure that the bolts stretch to its maximum torque spec. That way you don't have to retorque later on.
I did my head and no problems.
 
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