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Hey guys, as I was driving home from the PA/NJ meet today, I'm on the PA Turnpike South...doing about 115...suddenly my car shuts off...COMPLETELY OFF. I pull over and restart the car...no problem. It happens again...4 times in the next 5 miles. When I get to the toll booth, I figure out that when I'm on the clutch, the car no longer idels at 800-1200 rpm, it just goes to ZERO...and the car shuts off. So, I drive in and through Philly, trying to keep the rpms above 2000 the entire time (not easy on 76 East while talking on a cell phone with a manual transmission)

I do hear a slight whistle when the car is under acceleration...but can't determine where it's coming from.

Any ideas? I have to be at work all day tomorrow so I can't really take it anywhere until monday...however, since I got screwed by some a-home mechanic last time (with a heater core issue) I just wanted to ask you guys for some possible suggestions before I do ANYTHING!!!

Thanks in advance!

Delane
 

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Hey, this could be totally wrong but: I had that problem once, the car would drive fine but when i clutch in/neutral it would turn off. My problem was that one of the rear tranny bolts that hold it flush with the block were not in there and this caused the flywheel to rub the Transfercase. This created a lot of extra friction and at low rpms it shut off. I just figured that I'd share this with you it may not help at all but it may.

Good luck
Jon
 

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mine threw the idle screw from the throttle body out of the car....boy it doesn't like to idle with the throttle body completely closed
 

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K_Mans_TSI said:
mine threw the idle screw from the throttle body out of the car....boy it doesn't like to idle with the throttle body completely closed
yeah, mine did that and it was whistling at me when i hit the throttle.

check your throttle body for the missing screw, then go trade your soul to satan for a new one (approx $5)--for a plastic screw and rubber cap:D
 

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I said screw that and i put a fine thread 14mm bolt in it for perminance (if thats a word...only needed a little coaxing)
 

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Make sure the BOV recylce hose is firmly connected. If it is leaking or not connected at all the MAS is telling the car that there is air entering the turbo that is not really there which when the clutch is depressed at higher rpm and allowed to drop it will just stall. Eventually if this keeps happening the computer will learn and try to adjust. Sometimes this works sometimes it doesn't.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The screw is completely missing...aka GONE. So I do need a new one. Is it really 14mm?

I stopped by a Chrysler/Hyundai dealer (I think Mitsu licensed Hyundai to use/make their engines???)...and they tech is telling me to buy a new Throttle Body...because you need a computer or something to reset it? Yeah right! Of course thet priced the throttle body at $800!

I guess I need Mitsu part # MD614948...

I'll call Josh over at Comecelli unless someone has a better idea for me...

Also..if Steve (from Good Vibration) reads this, give me an e-mail or phone number so I can reach you...

Later....
 

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dbrouse said:
The screw is completely missing...aka GONE. So I do need a new one. Is it really 14mm?

I stopped by a Chrysler/Hyundai dealer (I think Mitsu licensed Hyundai to use/make their engines???)...and they tech is telling me to buy a new Throttle Body...because you need a computer or something to reset it? Yeah right! Of course thet priced the throttle body at $800!

I guess I need Mitsu part # MD614948...

I'll call Josh over at Comecelli unless someone has a better idea for me...

Also..if Steve (from Good Vibration) reads this, give me an e-mail or phone number so I can reach you...

Later....
Just ask for the screw itself and the rubber cap, like I said, Mine was $5 from satan it should be either part #MD614150 or part # MD614948 (can't remember)--good luck:D
 

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the thread pitch is weird i think 1.75 threads per whatever metric size that is...if u want to go original get one from the dealer, i just forced a 1.5 threads per whatever 14mm bolt in it and some green locktite, now it's officially 1.5 t.p.whatever :D
 

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you do need a scan tool from what i know, to readjust the BISS in 2G DSMs, BUT no way in hell you need a new TB .... What jacka$$s those mitsu techs are!
 
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